Question about Rover Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have water leaking from
Hi it has the classic symptoms of a failed water pump, when stationary no water/coolant is running around the engine hence cold air, when driving its forcing the water/coolant around the engine giving the warm air,, solution have the water pump changed before the head gasket blows, Hope this helps
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
As you've stated driving around town it's fine, and everything is working well. For the symptoms, there are 2 possible causes:
1. Your cooling fans are not working.
2. Your radiator needs to be replaced.
I'm sure you can determine which it is, and I wish you luck on your repair.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
I've heard other stories about the coolant leaking then the vehcile needing a head gasket replacement? Ask your mechanic, not just any mechanic will work on these vehicles.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
The only real way of checking for warpage on any head is by using a bar that extends from corner to corner on the head. The bar must be certified as straight (you can actually buy one from a tool dealer) since you likely will have little use for it, you can also have a good machine shop check that. Additionally, you should have had the heads magnafluxed (crack checked). The deck on the block should also be carefully examined and cleaned.
You are on the right track if you are going to do another hydrocarbon test. That will verify if you are getting a proper seal at the head gaskets or have any other seal problems (like cracks).
It seems as if you have done a very careful job and I know you don't want to take it apart again. The things you mentioned though do appear to point to exhaust driving coolant from the engine.
You can check the actual antifreeze mix with a simple ball type hydrometer. Anything except 50/50 will change the boil point of the mixture in a direction that isn't good. One thing I'd check is that you may still have an air pocket in the system somewhere. Make sure when filling that the heater is on high heat. One trick for getting the T stat to open without an air bind is to turn the engine off as soon as the temp approaches the opening point (195 (f)) then re-starting it in about three to five minutes, the engine temp will continue to rise during the time it is off but there will be no flow, allowing air to escape without fighting the coolant flow. Once re-started, add coolant slowly so the stat does not close again but add just fast enough so it does not overheat. One other item...If you need to take it apart again, don't use any kind of steel shim gaskets for the heads. Though a composite gasket will many times lower compression a bit, they also seal better. I use fel pro blue gaskets in everything. Unless I was careless or something got by me (not often) I never had a problem with any engine I ever built or repaired. The only application where I did not use them was in fuel engines where they were "o" ringed with stainless wire and used solid copper gaskets. (way different than a street engine!!!)
Have that hydrocarbon test done ASAP. No sense messing with it 'till you have that squared away!
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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It appears that you have a minor leak at where a hose attaches to an engine or radiator pipe. When the engine is hot, any small leak will evaporate quickly and therefore not be seen. As the coolant heats up it will expand into the overflow tank but once the engine is stopped the extra heat build up will force the coolant out the leaking joint. As the engine cools, the leak prevents the coolant from being sucked back from the overflow tank.
Check all hoses and clamps including heater hoses and those pesky little bypass hoses in the cooling system for a good tight fit and replace any hoses that have gone hard or have become soft and stretched. Those spring type hose clamps tend to be less effective in clamping as the hoses age. Worm drive ones are the best to use.
If unsure take vehicle to a cooling system specialist and have them do a pressure test and more thorough diagnosis.
If problem persists, then it could indicate a problem with the head gasket (Usually caused by allowing engine to become excessively overheated when cooling system has run dry) allowing very hot high pressure combustion gases into the engine water jacket, which super heats the coolant in the engine block, which then boils off, and is released via the cap or any leaks. If the head gasket is really bad it will leak water into the cylinders and into the oil in the sump. This is indicated by an emulsion of water and oil mix on the dipstick. You will also see white smoke (water vapour) from the exhaust.
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