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I had check the power steering fluid I'm out of abtion and what to do next. I done all, lines,pump,pinion,struts,tied road , steering wheel,and purge air and still hard to turn??

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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How about the front end moving parts like ball joints and the strut towers bearings?? You have not given any make, model or year of vehicle so hard to really help further.

Posted on Dec 07, 2016

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Power steering no matter what its on (boat,car,atv) is allways a bit of a challenge to trouble shoot , lets start with a little base know how , as to how it works . this may help u some .


1st there is the fluid reservoir, this feeds the pumps intake , the pmp then takes that oil and using the engines power provided by input pully it compresses the fluid to higher pressures , this fluid runs down to steering valve , this valve takes the input of direction from operator and sends more or less fluid to opposite end of steering piston connected to front wheels to "help" the steering move , this keeps fluid in Balance !! on both ends till operator moves wheel again , then fluid goes imbalance but seeks to balance its self again , the "valve" does this each time and direction we steer

(now its here I need to say that except in the case of Off road equipment at the same time this pressure is doing its job there is also a Parallel mechanical link to wheels as well , this is there for safety so if pwr drops out then u still have some steering )
so the pressure balance valve adds or dumps pressure from piston ends , the oil that is "dumped" is routed thru a oil cooler and then back to reservoir to used again , then it starts it journey all over again .

any one of these parts can either be defective or in some cases its just a smashed hose not letting the pressure thru

Posted on Dec 07, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: steering wheel jumps along with clanking noise when wheel is turned hard.

jack up the front wheels one at a time, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left and turn the wheel by hand. i think you have a bad u-joint behind the front wheel(s). if you have a bad u-joint then the wheels won't turn smoothly.

good luck

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 1114 Answers

SOURCE: power steering noise

MY SUGGESTION TO YOU IS THAT THERE IS NO REASON TO GO TO THE DEALER FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT WILL COST YOU 3X AS MUCH AS IT WOULD AT A PRIVATE SHOP.THERE ARE CERTAIN THINGS THAT ONLY THE DEALER CAN HANDLE,BUT ANYONE CAN DO THIS ONE.IVE BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR 20 YEARS.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

Murphybanton
  • 2004 Answers

SOURCE: Steering wheel (turning) is very hard to turn at slow speeds

Replace power steering pump

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

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SOURCE: My 2002 Honda Accord is making a whining noise

yes but the pump is fine as long as the steering is easy. if it isnt easy to turn then replace the pump or it could destroy the belt

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: racket pinion steering power steering fluid

This is a very common issue with this car.The problem of the Ford Taurus spewing powersteering fluid out of the cap is caused by a loose nut on the passenger side of the steering rack. This not only allows fluid to leak past and fill the rubber boots up on the tie rods/steering rack, (the right hand side fills too, because of an air vent equalizer tube that connects both sides), but it also allows the system to **** air which causes the foaming and spewing from the pumps cap/dip stick.

The cure is to jack up and secure the car, remove the passenger front wheel.
There is a rubber accordian style boot on the tie rod end. Use a super long flat screwdriver to pry under the far side clamp that secures it to the inner part of the rack and break it off. Now use a pliers to squeeze the smaller clamp on the side closest to you and slide it off and all the way to the end towards you.

Slide the whole rubber boot as far as you can towards you so you can see the large round nut that is inside the end of the rack. You'll know this is the problem when fluid pours out of the boot.
The tie rod goes through the center of this nut. The nut has four holes around it on the face of it. I assume they used a spanner tool to install this at the factory, but there's no room for a tool while the rack is on the car, so you'll have to manufacture a long instrument yourself.
I purchased about a 3 foot long narrow metal rod from a hardware store, then I used an angle grinder to shape one end of it into a blunt cone shape that would fit into one of the holes. It's awkward to do, but using it on all angles avoiding the brake line and wheel rotor you can tighten this nut by hitting the rod with a hammer. The nut will turn about 1/8th of a turn, then re-angle your rod into the next hole above the one you just did tightening the nut to the right (clockwise).

The nut on my car was loose by three full turns. The driver's side of the rack has a different setup, you don't need to try that side, the passenger side is the only side that is affected. Once you have this nut good and tight, I used a zip tie to clamp the big end of the rubber boot back on the rack, then pushed the rest of the accordian boot back into it's original place and put the smaller compression clamp back on the end closest to you.

Put your wheel back on, fill your ps pump back up with fluid and start the car, turning the wheel back and forth to purge the air from the system. It'll still be foamy for a while, but keep shutting the car off, let the bubbles disperse, add more fluid if needed, etc.
I learned this from another forum where many, many posters had tried this and it worked for them also.
Good luck!

Posted on Aug 12, 2010

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Is it possible for power steering fluid to get into the engine and mix with the oil? I am loosing fluid and there are no visible leaks, the engine oil and filter was recently changed and now has turne


No, the power steering is entirely a separate and sealed system, wholly external to the engine. The power steering pump pushes the fluid through a high pressure hose into the rack and pinion-the steering gear mounted below and behind the engine-and holds pressure within the rack that enables power assisted steering. At the same end where the power steering fluid hose enters the gear will be a fitting for a return line back to the fluid reservoir. These two hoses are usually routed close together at least part of the way, some may even be held together with brackets. Leaks could develop at the pump, the fluid reservoir, or the two hoses to and from the rack and pinion, or the seals inside the rack and pinion may have failed. You should be able to find the leak-it will only leak to the outside-to check the rack and pinion for leaks, right where your tie rods come out of the gear and go to the wheels for steering, will be a small rubber boot encasing the tie rod and the end of the rack assembly-on both ends is a boot and a tie rod-peel back the rubber boot from the gear ass\'y, it should be dry. If a lot of fluid, the seals in the rack and pinion are gone. It will have to be replaced.
Hopefully you will find a leaking hose or fractured reservoir, but keep looking, air flow may be blowing the leaking fluid back and under the car. Good luck, hope it\'s not the rack and pinion.

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I put on a new power steering pump and now it seems like the lines have air in them and there is lots of bubbles in the reservoir and it makes a louder noise when you turn the steering wheel.


You just need to purge the air out. Shut it off, top up reservoir, if possible raise front wheels. If not let fluid settle, turn wheel from side to side as much as possible. Start engine and turn from stop to stop 4-5 times. It will eventually subside and purge the air. Just make sure the pump doesn't run low on fluid.

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Item Part Number Description 1 - Steering wheel 2 - Steering column 3 - Boot 4 - Tie-rod 5 - Tie-rod end 6 - Steering gear 7 - Steering gear to fluid cooler hose 8 - Fluid cooler 9 - Power steering pressure (PSP) switch 10 - Power steering pump 11 - Fluid supply hose 12 - Fluid reservoir 13 - Pump to steering gear pressure line 14 - Steering gear pinion extension

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Steps to replace steering componets


Jack up car, remove wheels, pull cotter pins out of outer tie rod ends, tap tie rod ends till joint pops out, next unhook bolt that holds steering wheel to the rack and pinion, disconnect the power steering hose and drain fluid in a can, next remove mounting bolts from the rack and pinion that holds it to the frame, if the exhaust is not in the way yo can get it out without to much trouble, after removing the hoses and the steering knuckle drop the unit down in one piece, book time calls for 4 hours to remove and more time if you replace the inner tie rod ends, go buy a rebuilt unit at the parts store will cost about $400 fo a rebuilt unit, replace bot inner and outer tie rod ends, to install is the reverse procedure, the steering wheel shaft is keyed for it to fit in one way make sure it is pointing straight and the steering rack is centered get that started first then bolt up hook up lines and tie rod ends, then adjust tie rod ends to get alignment close, you can turn the wheels one at a time with a round file to make a mark on the tire and do both sides then with a tape measure check on the two lines on the wheels front and rear it should be no more than 1/8 towed out in the front if it is more adjust then take it to a alignment shop and get a four wheel alignment.

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How to change inner tie rod ends?


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Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


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  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Windstar

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