Question about Cars & Trucks
How about the front end moving parts like ball joints and the strut towers bearings?? You have not given any make, model or year of vehicle so hard to really help further.
Posted on Dec 07, 2016
Power steering no matter what its on (boat,car,atv) is allways a bit of a challenge to trouble shoot , lets start with a little base know how , as to how it works . this may help u some .
1st there is the fluid reservoir, this feeds the pumps intake , the pmp then takes that oil and using the engines power provided by input pully it compresses the fluid to higher pressures , this fluid runs down to steering valve , this valve takes the input of direction from operator and sends more or less fluid to opposite end of steering piston connected to front wheels to "help" the steering move , this keeps fluid in Balance !! on both ends till operator moves wheel again , then fluid goes imbalance but seeks to balance its self again , the "valve" does this each time and direction we steer
(now its here I need to say that except in the case of Off road equipment at the same time this pressure is doing its job there is also a Parallel mechanical link to wheels as well , this is there for safety so if pwr drops out then u still have some steering )
so the pressure balance valve adds or dumps pressure from piston ends , the oil that is "dumped" is routed thru a oil cooler and then back to reservoir to used again , then it starts it journey all over again .
any one of these parts can either be defective or in some cases its just a smashed hose not letting the pressure thru
Posted on Dec 07, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
jack up the front wheels one at a time, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left and turn the wheel by hand. i think you have a bad u-joint behind the front wheel(s). if you have a bad u-joint then the wheels won't turn smoothly.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
SOURCE: power steering noise
MY SUGGESTION TO YOU IS THAT THERE IS NO REASON TO GO TO THE DEALER FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT WILL COST YOU 3X AS MUCH AS IT WOULD AT A PRIVATE SHOP.THERE ARE CERTAIN THINGS THAT ONLY THE DEALER CAN HANDLE,BUT ANYONE CAN DO THIS ONE.IVE BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR 20 YEARS.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
yes but the pump is fine as long as the steering is easy. if it isnt easy to turn then replace the pump or it could destroy the belt
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
This is a very common issue with this car.The problem of the Ford Taurus spewing powersteering fluid out of the cap is caused by a loose nut on the passenger side of the steering rack. This not only allows fluid to leak past and fill the rubber boots up on the tie rods/steering rack, (the right hand side fills too, because of an air vent equalizer tube that connects both sides), but it also allows the system to **** air which causes the foaming and spewing from the pumps cap/dip stick.
The cure is to jack up and secure the car, remove the passenger front wheel.
There is a rubber accordian style boot on the tie rod end. Use a super long flat screwdriver to pry under the far side clamp that secures it to the inner part of the rack and break it off. Now use a pliers to squeeze the smaller clamp on the side closest to you and slide it off and all the way to the end towards you.
Slide the whole rubber boot as far as you can towards you so you can see the large round nut that is inside the end of the rack. You'll know this is the problem when fluid pours out of the boot.
The tie rod goes through the center of this nut. The nut has four holes around it on the face of it. I assume they used a spanner tool to install this at the factory, but there's no room for a tool while the rack is on the car, so you'll have to manufacture a long instrument yourself.
I purchased about a 3 foot long narrow metal rod from a hardware store, then I used an angle grinder to shape one end of it into a blunt cone shape that would fit into one of the holes. It's awkward to do, but using it on all angles avoiding the brake line and wheel rotor you can tighten this nut by hitting the rod with a hammer. The nut will turn about 1/8th of a turn, then re-angle your rod into the next hole above the one you just did tightening the nut to the right (clockwise).
The nut on my car was loose by three full turns. The driver's side of the rack has a different setup, you don't need to try that side, the passenger side is the only side that is affected. Once you have this nut good and tight, I used a zip tie to clamp the big end of the rubber boot back on the rack, then pushed the rest of the accordian boot back into it's original place and put the smaller compression clamp back on the end closest to you.
Put your wheel back on, fill your ps pump back up with fluid and start the car, turning the wheel back and forth to purge the air from the system. It'll still be foamy for a while, but keep shutting the car off, let the bubbles disperse, add more fluid if needed, etc.
I learned this from another forum where many, many posters had tried this and it worked for them also.
Posted on Aug 12, 2010
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