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I am losing coolant, but the car does not test positive for exhaust in the radiator. I am nervous to use the product, but sure I have head gasket leak

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The coolant may be being pulled into the combustion chamber so no combuston gas in the radiator, use a tube of "AlumAseal" radiator sealant and head gasket sealer it is safe and will not clog up the works, it works.

Posted on Dec 06, 2016

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2 Answers

The engine overheats and uses up water very quickly


Hi Keith, Hopefully is only a faulty thermostat but the links below might have the answer.......Good luck..
How To Fix A Motor That Over Heats
How To Fix An Overheating Car
How To Test And Fix Head Gasket Leaks
How to Test Head Gasket
Symptoms Of Blown Head Gasket Radiators
Fixing Tough Head Gasket Leaks



Apr 27, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Losing coolant with no visible leaks 2005 jeep liberty engine 3.7


Did you listen to the radiator too see if it gurgles when filling? When filling the gurgling tells you there are no air or coolant leaks in the engine much the same as an upside down soda bottle gurgles when turned upside down. Also look in the radiator too see if bubbles are coming from the bottom of the radiator while running at normal operating temperature with the cap off.? If you see bubbles coming from the bottom, you have a leaking head gasket. This can and will happen without the coolant leaking into oil, and without oil leaking into coolant. The gasket leaks right near the cylinder and sucks the coolant into the cylinder on the intake stroke, and blows it back into the radiator on compression stroke. This is why the coolant bubbles up from the bottom. The coolant that gets sucked in gets vaporized and comes out the exhaust. Loosing coolant ?? This is where it is going if no leaks under or around around the vehicle.Good luck I hope this solves your problem. Please post a solved comment on fixya, so I receive credit for the solve.

May 01, 2014 | 2001 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

Overheating


Doesn't sound like it ran hot enough or long enough to crack or warp the head. If there is a crack, the engine will continue to overheat. If a warped head, car would probably run rough, the affected cylinders would likely have little or no compression, there would be a noticeable miss, and overheating would continue.
Why the low coolant? It's a sealed system, so should never have to add coolant, other than a small loss from evaporation in the overflow tank. Monitor the level closely for the next few days. Note the level in the overflow tank to see if it drops over time. Leaks can be external anywhere in the coolant system-engine, radiator, hoses, heater core- or internal in the engine-head gasket failures can cause coolant in the cylinders (white smoke out the exhaust), or coolant in the oil (oil will have a milky brown look to it), or oil in the coolant (will see traces of oil in the radiator).
A couple of tests may be called for. A pressure test of the coolant system will check if the system holds pressure as it should-about 15 psi. If pressure does not hold, there is a leak somewhere. Water pumps usually leak through the weep hole when they fail. A radiator leak would show up when pressure is applied. If pressure does hold, check if you have a good radiator cap-the cap is what seals the system so pressure will maintain. Coolant under pressure raises it's boiling point by about 10 degrees, so is critical to keep the system under pressure.
If you suspect further problems-losing coolant or continued overheating-then have the chemical test done to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant. Basically a check if the head gasket is good, a simple test done at the radiator cap opening with a special fluid that changes color if hydrocarbons are present in the cooling system.
Or you could have a compression test of the cylinders to check the internal mechanical condition-not only tells you if head gasket is good, also tells you a lot about engine condition-even,. balanced, good compression in all cylinders translates into good power output-rings are good, valves are sealing good, all systems go.
The cooling system: water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, heater core and hoses, radiator cap, overflow tank, and the cooling fans and associated wiring. Make sure everything is working right and you'll be good to go.

Sep 17, 2013 | 1994 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

I was told i have a minor head gasket leak but i have not noticed any problems with its performance. how do i know if i should fix the 2 gaskets?


If you let a car run for a half hour, you can over heat &
ruin the exhaust converter.

There is a product called Combustion Leak Tester

It is a plastic tube the goes over the radiator or coolant
cap, in place of the cap & is filled with blue fluid,if it turns
yellow you have exhaust gases in the coolant,thus a head
gasket problem

A cylinder leak down test may be in order,certainly after
any repair or head work.

Nov 22, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2007 chevy impala ls, overheats and goes loses coolant. can't find a leak. head gaskets are good.


You did a Combustion Leak Test at the
radiator,to determine no head gasket issue?

Also a Cylinder Leak Down test?

Did you look at exhaust gas readings?

Jun 11, 2011 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My vehicle is losing coolent but no leak. I have to add coolent at least once a week and can not figure it out. I flushed the radiator to make sure the mixture was right and replaced the radiator cap but...


you probably have a bad intake or head gasket. check your oil dipstck and see if you oil is foamy or has a chocalate milk mix. if so your head gasket is going. look at the exhaust if the exhaust is white your intake gasket may be bad. you could have a cracked part also. if you do not find these problems . you can remove your spark plugs and do a coolant pressure test to force out the coolant to find the leak. autzone rents these for free and it installs in your radiator cap.

Jan 07, 2011 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Water coming out the exhaust


Water out of the exhaust is a natural by product of the catalytic process that occurs in your converter. A lot of water coming out the exhaust is NOT normal and indicates a possible head gasket problem.Watch you engine temperature gauge for overheating.The only way to know 100% is to have a mechanic pressure test your cooling system. Good Luck

Oct 22, 2010 | 1996 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

Replaced cylinder heads and had them pressure tested, installed new head gaskets and antifreeze drove the vehicel for a week and half and tnoticed it was down 2 litre3s anti freeze at low speed it pushes...


You had the heads pressure tested? Did they do a compression test or a leak down cylinder test. It is possible to have an exhuast leak through the head gasket into a coolant jacket and push coolant out throught the overflow. A very small crack in the cylinder or head can do the same thing, and you wouldnt necessarily see any oil in the coolant. You can buy an inexpensive radiator pressure tester, hook it up and pressurize the cooling system to the pressure listed on the cap. Start the car and see if it gains pressure that is not consistant with the coolant warming up. Another test is to hook a hose to the overflow directly off the radiator. make sure the radiator cap is tight and put the other end in a bottle with water in it. If you see a stream of air bubbles which quit when you turn the car off, then you have exhaust gas pressurizing the cooling system.

Jan 04, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

Overheating


There's many causes of overheating (on all cars..).
The first and most obvious thing I would do after checking the coolant level in the radiator expansion tank was at the maximum level, would be to check for coolant leaks while the engine is running with a 'few revs' on a warm engine.

Hoses can split internally and also become soft and collapse internally through age. When this happens the hose becomes blocked and prevents the coolant from passing through easily. If a hose feels 'soggy'/soft and is easily squeezed flat by hand, it's suspect.

Coolant can also leak from the heater hoses, the heater unit, the bearings/seal on the water pump and of course the radiator. Nor is it always easy to see a leak let alone find it. If the in-car heater unit is leaking the carpets may be wet at times and sometimes, the windows may mist up when the car is standing - this is the coolant condensing on the interior of the glass.

Ok... you can't see any leaks while the engine is running. Is the car losing coolant when it stands? Or is it losing coolant when the engine is running? ( a split hose may only leak when it is pressurised with warm coolant) Or is it just losing coolant when it overheats?

Remove the cap from the radiator expansion tank when the engine is cold. Make sure that the water level is at maximum. Leave the expansion tank cap off. Leave the car standing overnight and next morning look at the coolant level. If it has dropped there's probably an unidentified leak somewhere. If the coolant level hasn't dropped, it points towards a problem that is caused when the engine runs.

With the expansion tank cap still off (get a flashlight to help you) start the engine and peek into the expansion tank. Watch what happens to the coolant (though do keep your face out of harm's way). As the coolant begins to circulate air bubbles will probably appear within the coolant. This is quite normal - air is 'bleeding out' of the coolant as it circulates. The air bubbles should stop after a couple of minutes.

As the coolant warms it will rise up in the expansion tank (keep your face out of the way ..). If the air bubbles continually appear or, there's a constant and continual stream of bubbles or a 'violent bubbling' then this may point to problems with a warped/cracked cylinder head or leaking head gasket (or both).

A defective cylinder head/gasket can allow exhaust gasses to be pumped into the water jacket (the coolant system) simply by the compression action of the pistons. Just like a hypodermic needle can inject air into your bloodstream. When this happens - pressurised exhaust gasses being forced into the cooling system - the cooling system itself becomes pressurised.

The coolant itself can find its way into the cylinders where it is vapourized and pumped out of the exhaust along with the exhaust gases. If you can't find any leaks - the missing coolant may be going out of the exhaust as steam (though you may not see any steam as such). A classic sign of cylinder head/gasket problems is overheating. Check your oil - if there's a yellowish/creamy mayonnaise/sludge that's another sign of head problems. The sludge is caused by coolant finding its way into the oil.

No leaks, no bubbling expansion tank - and if you're happy that there isn't a head/gasket problem, turn your attention to the radiator, thermostat and water pump.

With age, cooling fins on the radiator can corrode and crumble away, reducing its cooling ability. Whilst coolant still passes through the radiator it isn't being cooled sufficiently. Check the condition of your radiator. Radiators can also suffer from an internal blockage. With a warm engine that is switched OFF, feel the top radiator hose - it will be hot. Then feel the bottom radiator hose. If the bottom hose is cold it indicates that coolant is not finding its way down/being circulated maybe due to a radiator blockage or failed thermostat. Flushing may cure blockages.

A thermostat can fail in the 'closed' position. When this happens coolant is prevented from getting into the radiator via the top hose. The coolant in the block then overheats causing the temperature gauge to hit red. The thermostat is located (usually - it depends on make/model variations) on the cylinder head where the top radiator hose joins. They're very easy and cheap to replace.

The water pump can leak water when the bearings/seal fail. Coolant that slowly drips onto a warm engine soon evaporates making detection difficult. Way back, some water pumps had plastic impellers (perhaps they still do). The plastic vanes on the impellers used to wear away with age and use, leaving a spindle spinning uselessly in the coolant - not pumping it. Think of an airplane with a propeller. If the propeller blades wore away the 'nose cone' would just spin uselessly and no air would get moved ..

Before jumping to any conclusions and replacing parts unnecessarily, get a workshop to look at the car. A workshop will be able to test the coolant for exhaust contaminants within minutes (or pressure test the coolant system. If there's contaminants present - there's a head problem. No contaminants present - the fault lies elsewhere.

Back to the cylinder head:
It's a 2-3 day job to do the work yourself. A cylinder head must be skimmed prior to refitting. Refitting an unskimmed cylinder head back onto an engine cures nothing.

Years ago, here in the UK, there was a liquid additive called 'head weld' (and one for the radiator called 'radweld') which provided a TEMPORARY get-you-home fix. Head-weld was a liquid added to the coolant system. It contained fine particles in suspension ... these particles were carried to the crack/leak in the cylinder head and formed a 'dam' that was held in place by the water pressure until they (the particles) hardened.

Recently I noticed an advert for a product called 'steelseal' - here in the UK. The advertising blurb claims that it uses new technology without particles to form a permanent fix for cylinder heads/gaskets. It's a clear liquid that you just pour into the cooling system and then run the engine until its fixed. I've never tried it. At around 45 dollars a bottle it isn't cheap, though if it does what is claimed then it's a hell of a lot cheaper than having a cylinder head/gasket fixed. No doubt there are similar products on the shelves of car accessory and parts shops near you.







Aug 12, 2008 | 1992 Volvo 960

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