Question about 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

Open Question

How do i prevent 99 s10 center link studs from turning?

When replacing the Idler Arm on a 99 S10 2WD, the stud on the Centerlink turns preventing me from being able to tighten the nut. How can I hold that stud in place so I can tighten that nut and securing the Idler Arm.

Posted by on

  • Charles Roenfanz
    Charles Roenfanz Dec 05, 2016

    Additionally, the back side of the stud on the center link is a grease zerk, and when the stud turns, there is no indication of anything on the back side turning.

×

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing Pitman arm and idler arm on a K1500

You need to unbolt the steering box from the frame. You can do it with the lines still attached. Gently roll the steering box on its side. you can rent a pitman arm puller from autozone or advance auto.

Think positive, it can and has been done....

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: steering gear leaking at pitman arm stud how do

Depending on you application theres repair kits that fix this problem if you are going to do it yourself, find a good puller to get the pitmam arm off, it is very hard to remove. I f the gear box shaft is worn out replace it.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 167 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2004 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 with a Duramax. I

You are on the right track. You may have overtightened the tie rods or the sway bar links. Whenever you do this much front-end work, you should always get the front-end re-aligned. The front-end mechanic will probably find and fix this as a normal part of the re-alignment at no extra cost.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

  • 580 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Malibu Broken front wheel stud.

Just punch out the old stud & replace it with a new one.

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a

Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What are the torque specs for lower ball joint nut the control arm on a 2003 Dodge Dakota 4WD?


Tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm
tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft . lbs (81Nm)

Sep 12, 2014 | 2003 Dodge Dakota Club Cab

1 Answer

Suspension arm


Maybe you got the idler arm on upside down.

Dec 01, 2013 | Mercury Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need torque scecs for control arm


1) Install or connect the following:
  • Lower control arm
  • Control arm bolts and nuts
  • Ball stud to the knuckle
  • Ball stud castle nut, tighten the ball stud castle nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), plus 135 degrees

Note: Do NOT loosen the ball stud nut in order to align the ball stud nut slots to the ball stud cotter pin hole. If necessary, tighten the ball stud castle nut in order to align the ball stud castle nut slot to the ball stud cotter pin hole. Ensure that the cotter pin ends do NOT contact the ABS wheel speed sensor, the ABS sensor connector or the drive axle.
  • NEW cotter pin and bend the ends
  • Stabilizer shaft link
  • ABS wheel speed sensor jumper harness to the harness retainer clips
  • ABS wheel speed sensor connector
    • Lower control arm nuts, tighten the lower control arm nuts to 71 ft. lbs. (96 Nm)
    • From Chevrolet web site.

Jan 30, 2013 | 2005 Chevrolet Uplander

1 Answer

How to change rear ball joints on 2002 dodge stratus


Instructions
  1. Remove the Upper Control Arm
    • 1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
    • Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
    • Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
    • Finish removing the tire.
    • Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
    • Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
    • Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
    • Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
    • Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
    Install the New Upper Control Arm
    • Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
    • 11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
    • Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
    • Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
    • Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
    • Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
    • Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.

May 31, 2012 | Dodge Stratus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need the torque specs for the nuts on the pitman arm stud and the idler arm stud (nuts that hold the linkage on the studs) for a 2003 sierra 1500HD, 4wd, 6.0L, crew cab


pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

May 08, 2011 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
      Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

    • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
    • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
    • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

    • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

    • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
    • Relay rod from the vehicle
  3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
  4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
  5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
  6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Relay rod to the vehicle
    • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
    • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
    • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
    • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
    • Tie rod ends
    • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle
  3. Check the wheel alignment
  4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How do you replace ball joints


Removing the Ball Joint Step 1 Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel assembly with the ball joint you need to replace. Do not remove the lug nuts.
Step 2 Set the transmission in neutral (manual) or park (automatic) and raise the wheel off the ground using a floor jack. Then support the car on a jack stand.
Step 3 Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.
Step 4 Remove the wheel lugs and the wheel assembly.
Step 5 Remove the mounting nut and dished washer that secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 6 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolt and nut holding the inner side of the control arm to the car's body. This will relieve the tension on the stabilizer bar. Use a wrench to hold the mounting bolt as you unscrew the nut with a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 7 Unscrew the bolt on the steering knuckle that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 8 Spread the steering knuckle joint that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar. Then separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Step 9 Pull the control arm from the stabilizer bar.
Step 10 Remove the stabilizer bar spacer from the control arm and keep it in a secure place. You will need to use it on the new control-arm ball joint assembly.
Installing the Ball Joint Step 1 Insert the new control-arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle joint. As you look through the mounting bolt hole on the steering knuckle, align the notch on the ball joint stud with the hole. Insert a new ball joint mounting bolt and start a new nut on the bolt. Tighten the nut.
Step 2 Mount the stabilizer bar spacer in the control arm, then insert the stud bolt at the end of the stabilizer bar into the control arm mounting hole and spacer.
Step 3 Set the other end of the control arm in its mounting position and insert the mounting bolt. Then start the mounting nut on the bolt by hand.
Step 4 Hold the head of the mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the car's body using a wrench, then tighten the nut.
Step 5 Secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm with the dished washer and mounting nut. Tighten the nut.
Step 6 Install the wheel assembly and lugs. Tighten the lugs with the lug wrench just enough to hold the wheel assembly firmly in place.
Step 7 Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
Step 8
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels.

Aug 08, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

I have a 2002 GMC Safari that I need to how to replace the idler arm?


The idler arm will be bolted to the passenger side of the frame with 2 bolts. It connects into a tapered hole in the center link, you will need a "pickle fork" tool (a long rod with two prongs, like a fork) and a large hammer, to seperate the centerlink from the idler arm. You'll need to put the fork between the idler arm and the centerlink, and hit it with the hammer until they seperate.

Mar 13, 2010 | GMC Safari Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing


here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

Not finding what you are looking for?
1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup Logo

Related Topics:

35 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75051 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22095 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

7726 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...