Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Main Alternator Output Cable
the main alternator cable usually runs from the starter where that is fed from battery.if you take cable off a motor factor will usually make one like the old one.hope this helps
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
Ok I'm going to try this from memory...last time used it was a few years back when wiring up a big boat. Large (B+) wire goes from battery to large terminal on alternator back. Facing the rear of the alternator, top spade connector on alt goes to a switch (there was supposed to be a resistor in that wire, but I never used one) switch connects to (+) on battery. Terminal on right goes to the (B+) terminal on alternator. Alt case is ground.
I can't find my old chiltons electrical book but that is how I remember it.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Don't do that yet, You have two best options, 1st. before you go though all that, hoping Toyota still keep the key code back from 1998 other wise you have to go with 2nd option. take your registration or title to the dealership and ID card showing them your the owner to that car. any toyota dealership would be able to cut another key for that car with the vin number, its allot cheaper and less head ache replacing it; will cost couple of bucks. 2nd call a lock smith, they will come out and cut the key for about 100-150 bucks using the the trunk unit and you still be able to use the keys for everything. Replacing your ignition will be much more and you have to fiddle and installing it. it not that hard but time consuming although i would make it my last options. If you have car insurance, some of them may have a lock out policy. they pay for the lock smith to come out and cut the keys.
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
I recommend getting an actual voltage, ampres check to see what the alternator is putting out, volts and amps. You should be able to get the charging, battery load test and the starter draw all tested together. That's where I would start.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
You have two options If the truck is stock then the 95 amp is fine but if your running aftermarket accessories then you would benifit from the 130 amp. All the alternator has to do is keep up with the load being applied.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 13, 2014 | 2005 Chrysler 300
Dec 28, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Mar 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 29, 2012 | 1981 Ford F 150
Mar 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Feb 24, 2011 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks
Nov 02, 2009 | Ford ZX2 Cars & Trucks
Dec 10, 2008 | 1965 Ford Mustang
Jul 27, 2008 | 1986 Toyota Tercel
19 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!