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I have ups working in normal operation but indicates alarm " low battery warning " and batteries charge 100% and i cann't rest this alarm

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 40,672 Answers

Check the condition of the batteries if older that 3 years
the internals expand and split the outer cases
even though they may indicate fully charged , the capacity to run then pc may be severely limited making the alarm show

Posted on Dec 04, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

VOTIT
  • 2071 Answers

SOURCE: Alarm warning system on '02 Mercury Mariner 150HP E.F.I.-

If the alarm has been triggered the horn will sound four (4) times when you disarm the alarm. beep beep beep beep The LED will be blinking very fast.



To identify what caused the alarm to be triggered:
Open the door and press the Emergency Override button. Do not turn the ignition on.
Count the number of times the horn sounds
beep codes:
1 honk = impact sensor
2 honks = ignition was turned on
3 honks = N/A
4 honks = door or trunk opened

Posted on Jul 05, 2008

yotaguy
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: low battery gauge indicated

Not necessarily,this can also be caused by poor battery cable connections or a bad battery cable or a bad connection to the gauge or just a bad gauge.Check or have them checked first,and then have the alternator output tested,a voltmeter connected at the battery posts should measure 14.5 to 14.8 volts at an idle,any lower than this than the alternator is the problem.

Posted on May 30, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: My car alarm no longer

Press and hold the lock button for 15 seconds and watch the lights. They should blink after 15 seconds

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: alternator not charging the battery

Take the car to an autoparts store and have the alternator tested. While the output is being checked, move the wires around and see if it affects the output. I had a wire shorting out in the plug once that was intermittently causing the alternator to not charge. I ended up soldering the wire into the plug and it stopped the problem. If the alternator is not charging the battery, it is most likely either a short in the wiring somewhere or a faulty voltage regulator. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: will replacing car battery in saab 93 sportswagon

No definitely not.Unreladed

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

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What is causing the battery to drain?


Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
  • Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  • Battery charge
  • Generator pulley
  • Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
  • Battery junction box fuse:
    • 11 (20A)
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 30 (30A)
  • Circuitry
  • Charging system warning indicator
  • Cables
  1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
    • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
    • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
    • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
  1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off
  1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
    • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
    • Circuitry.
    • Voltage regulator.
    • Generator.
    • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
    Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

Aug 16, 2015 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

The car soulds like the battery is low but when it starts the flashers come on.


Often an alarm system will register a low battery voltage and presume the vehicle's battery is being removed to prevent the alarm from going off. They will then begin flashing and or sounding the horn.
In your case, I would presume that the battery voltage is too low which may indicate either a failed battery, or a parasitic voltage drain.

First, get the vehicle started, and run the vehicle for a good twenty or so minutes to get some charge to the battery. If you don't want to waste fuel however doing this, then I suggest using any battery charger, as all we want to do is get some voltage back in the battery. If you are using a charger though, then charge on a lower voltage setting overnight.

Once you have the battery charged, run off any surface charge by turning the vehicle lights on for a minute, then turn them off again.

You need an ammeter for this next part:


Disconnect the battery positive terminal and connect the ammeter in series with the battery and positive lead.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE VEHICLE!

With all vehicle systems off, the key out, doors closed and alarm 'OFF', bonnet close switch depressed, or bonnet/hood clasp closed (need a screwdriver), take a reading from the ammeter.
After probably no more than twenty minutes, the ammeter should be reading 0.03 amps and not much more. Anything like 0.5 or 1 amp means you have a battery drain.
If this is the case, then start by disconnecting the alarm system. If the alarm system has it's own separate speaker/horn, then disconnect this first. Many of these horns have backup batteries, which only last three or four years before they fail, which causes them to constantly draw from the vehicle battery and then flatten it when parked.
Every time you disconnect an item or system, check that ammeter again to see if the amps have returned to normal. Pull fuses one by one, checking the ammeter each time for any change until you find the system which is causing a drain, then attend to that system.

If your amps are normal however and your battery is still loosing charge when parked for any short length of time, i.e. a few days or so, then your battery is at fault and requires replacement.

Just before changing your battery, do one last check, which is with the vehicle running. You need to reconnect any battery cables, and start the vehicle. Using the voltmeter once more, check the voltage across the terminals with the engine running. This is your charging voltage and it should go up to around 14 volts if revving the engine slightly. If still around 12 volts only, then you have a charging issue, which is probably the alternator.

Nov 11, 2012 | 2008 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Battery light and abs light is on and battery wont stay charged, new battery and altenator is good


This sounds like a bad alternator , maybe it charges at times and other times it does not, check connections to battery and at alternator, also make sure all fuse are good.

Oct 06, 2012 | 2001 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

We changed the alternater like four times the battery light wont turn off, we have even check some wire


the plug on the alt will some times go bad usually melting this is normally the cause of this

Feb 14, 2011 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Upon startup engine idles rough then speeds up and returns to normal idle .After a couple of minutes the volt light comes on then no power then a complete shut down.Starts back up for a while then shuts...


OK, the volt light means that the alternator is not charging the battery. It could mean the battery is shorted out, or the battery is bad or low on charge due to an alternator not charging.

Replace the Alternator and battery as indicated by standard voltage output tests under load.

The computer in the car will not operate the engine properly on low voltage.

Fixing the charging system, may resolve the rough idle (meaning that it may be trying to relearn after data was erased by low voltage of the battery), and the speed up.


Try the charging system first, and once that is repaired, reevaluate the engine driveability and speed and idle smoothness, after it relearns.

Good luck on this repair.

Nov 06, 2010 | 1999 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

'alternator Workshop!' warning along with the battery light keep popping up. The battery is good and the alternator seems to be working correctly. What else can this be?


If the voltage regulator is charging too high or too low or one or more of the diodes in the diode trio are burnt out and not functioning, the battery or alternator light will pop up.

This indicates that the charging system has something amiss, unfortunately.

Jun 26, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Passat

3 Answers

Weak battery - 2007 VW EOS


I don't think it's a battery. The ticking noise along with the dead battery leads me to believe you might have a belt/pulley issue. The serpentine/accessory belt and pulleys are all part of your charging system. It's how your alternator charges your battery. If there's something up with one of the pulleys or the belt (slipping?) in that system then your battery isn't going to charge properly. I have 6 yrs and 225,000m on my original battery in my Jetta - although I have a new alternator because the pulley fell off of mine...

Jul 20, 2009 | 2007 Volkswagen EOS Convertible

3 Answers

Isuzu rodeo lost DC electric power.


loose earth strap from engine to chassis??

Dec 21, 2008 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Warning lights stay on


Hi,

Brake light warning indicates possible low brake fluid in the reservoir;

Charge warning light indicates battery not charging which can be caused by defective alternator/regulator, slipping belt, corroded fusible link from alternator to battery B+ terminal.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

May 24, 2008 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

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