Question about 2005 Dodge Stratus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
The battery is accessible without removing the left front wheel and tire assembly..
Verify that the ignition switch and all accessories are OFF.
Turn the steering wheel to the full left position.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post.
WARNING: NEVER GET UNDER A LIFTED VEHICLE IF NOT SUPPORTED PROPERLY ON SAFETY STANDS.
Remove battery splash shield. Refer to the Body section of the service manual for the procedure.
Disconnect the heater blanket cord, if equipped.
Remove the short bolt from the battery hold down and remove the hold down (Battery Location).
Disconnect the negative and positive battery cables from the battery.
Slide the battery toward rear of vehicle and lift out of the battery tray.
Remove battery from vehicle.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR IS LOCATED ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE HEAD. 2 BOLTS AND AN OVAL FLANGE. IT HAS A RED LOCK ON THE PLUG WHICH YOU JUST MOVE TO THE RIGHT TO RELEASE THE MAIN PLUG. BUT I dont know if thats your problem. the timing belt seems to fail on these cars prematurely. Dodge recomends 90,000 miles but many cars bend engine valves before this due to the timing belt. (around 83000-88000) miles. I would reccomend having someone look into this problem first. Also trying this yourself can be costly, simply because the timing belt MUST be installed properly and exactly. If this is not done the engine could be at risk causing expensive repairs. Ihave a friend who had the timing belt replaced by an individual and the i recieved it on a tow truck. Which it now cost them 1600.00 to repair. I have been a mechanic for 15 years. But i got smart and went back to college and npw i am a refrigeration technition. Just trying to help you out. any ? firstname.lastname@example.org i would be glad to help.
Posted on Mar 01, 2010
The thermostat on this car is located on the passenger side lower Engine block. Follow the lower radiator hose and it will lead you right to it. The Wheel and splash guarding need to be removed as well as the Alternator to gain access to the housing bolts. It about a 3 hour job to replace thermostat.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
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