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ALL subwoofers need a minimum 10 gauge wire power source.Run a 10 gauge wire to a relay then to the battery with a fuse or circuit breaker inline which matches the subs amp power needs.
Use a switched power source to the relay from any accessory fuse.
If you try and feed power to a sub from existing wiring a voltage drop may result and the sub amp will not only sound bad but have a short life.
Capacitors are added to bigger systems just for this reason as sub amps can be VERY power hungry.
Yes, there is! And without taking the fuel pump out. You can disconnect the power feed from the fuel pump at the tank, and connect a power source (such as a separate battery), to it, but route that power source through a current meter. If the current meter shows normal current draw, take note of the current reading, drain the fuel tank, and take a second current reading, which should be much lower because the pump is only pumping air! By the way, you can ALSO disconnect the fuel line and let that pump push the fuel out of the tank, and into a holding tank. That will also give you an idea whether a fuel filter may be clogged or clogging up! If the pump does not run at all from the alternate power source, you have found your problem!
Most "CCC" Or computer comand controlled vehicles supply power to the electircal components automaticaly via a relay, there will be one power source with the ignition off,& a second power sourse when the ignition is turned on,In this case the temp sensor will supply a ground to the cooling fan circuit when the engine temp reaches a specified temperature and the fan comes on. In my opinion you most likely have a relay that has malfunctioned(gotten too hot & fused internaly) find your engine cooling fan relay(s) & remove them.If the fan stops you may have found your problem.to check the power supplied to the relay you will need a simple test light, connect the clip to a good ground & probe the relay socket with the tip of the lights probe. where there is power the test light will light up. Ignition off-1 power source,Ignition on-2 power sources/ to check for the ground supplied by the temp sensor connect the test lights clip to a battary+ source & probe the relay socket again if there is a ground supplied the test light will light up, there may be more than one temp sensor in the cooling system.you should be able to aquir a wiring diagram online if you do not have a book.one of the sensors sends the temp signal to the gauge in the dash, & the other is the ground supply for thr fan relay. I hope I have been of some help.
no idea where it is to be honest but on older cars like this the immobilisor only shuts off the fuel pump so it could be you have lost the chip out the key so try the spare key first ,the fuel pump relay i would suspect is under the bonnet in the power distribution box but which one?? i would need to connect my multi meter to the fuel pump connection with as long wire then using continuety test i would check all the relay connections till i found the other end of the fuel pump feed then i would know which relay it was then go from their
I'd say your ECU module has gone bad. I highly recommend the guy I found on eBay that was rebuilding the modules exchange , he installs a performance chip in the modules and your Tracker will have 20% more power! You can probably buy the chip and install it yourself if you know a little about electronics, ground yourself when installing the chip!
I found a guy on eBay that rebuilds them really resonable with power chip! You can buy the performance chips off eBay and install them yourself and they make a big difference in power at the cost of a few mpg. If you buy a used ECU, they have a number and letter on the units you must match!
the wire is feed by the asd relay as commanded by the computer to supply power upon seeing cranking rpm. the wire also feeds the injectors and other sensors. the wire you need is in a harnes that runs from the drivers side to the passenger side just behind the back of the valve cover.
good luck chris