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Re: MY REAR HUB BEARING ARE BAD AS PER TIRES PLUS,
Remove Both Wheel and Drum Look for 3 or 4 Torx type Bolts at front or back of Backing Plate , Remove theese Bolts to Remove the HUB, Reverse To Install.
P.S. It may takje A Hammer to Get Hub off After Bolts.
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Replacing the LR3/Disco3 rear wheel bearing is not exactly a DYI / Home Repair job. You will need access to a hub puller to remove the axle spindle and a press to push the bearing out of the knuckle (dont forget to remove the giant C-clip / spring that hold the bearing to the knuckle before pressing). You can follow the LR repair manual removing the knuckle. You most likely need to cut the e-brake / drum brake cable plastic cap in the back (most likely fused to the knuckle). Cutting wont hurt the cable and you can reuse it. It will be PITA to reassemble the drum brakes. A good speed shop / machine will be able to replace your bearing within an hr per wheel. Budget 2.5 hrs time per wheel (exclude press time).
If this does not have sealed bearings then you have the old style bearing. The old style bearings are 2 parts, the cone and the race. If you only replace the cone, it will quickly fail because a race that is scored up is abrasive.
If the bearing race has not been properly installed it will be lopsided in the seat of the hub. There is also a process for installing the race, never, ever draw the race into the hub using the old or new bearing. You will scar, flatten, or bend both parts.
There is a process for packing the bearing with grease, and there is a front and back to the seal for the hub for these old style units.
Now if the bearing is a third style, a sealed trailer hub style that bolts onto the axle shaft, this style acts both as the spindle and a permanent bearing. Some Manufactuers go this route for simplicity, but some chose to have a removeable sealed bearing as yet another combination.
Do not understand if you are saying just the bearings go bad or the tires go bad too. Usually bad bearings cause the tires to go bad, not the other way around.
Sometimes you have problems with the rear Emergency brake pads, some need to be loosened and readjusted when the brakes are taken off to get at the hub.
Have you look at the rear bearings and also are the tires cupped, cupped tires will give you a bearing type noise and feel, also make sure the rear bearings are good, the hard part is to locate a bad bearing thats not to bad, the only way is to listen for the noise or wheel is loose, you can remove them and try to spin it by hand and see if it spins smoothly but anyway look at tires and try to check the rear,let me know why you think you still have a bearing problem, are you feeling or hearing something. good day.
Lightly losen the lug nuts with the tires on the the ground. Jack up the car and remove the tire according to the owner's manual. Make sure to block the wheels. After the tire is removed, release the park brake. Support the car on jack stands. Remove four bolts from the rear of hub. The hub nut will be 29 mm - it is important that you have a tight fit if you attempt to remove the nut.
At this point you MAY have to loosen or remove the remove the emergency brake cable. Either way the hub is ready to be removed. The front of the hub (with the lugs) and the bearing will come out and the back plate and brake shoes will remain in place.
Once you get it off, you may either purchase a hub assembly (which includes the hub with a new bearing in place ready-to-go) or take the existing hub and a replacement bearing to an auto machine shop which can easily remove the old bearing and install the new bearing. Using extreme care you can remove the old one using bearing pullers and prybars and replace the bearing using large deep sockets or a properly sized piece of steel pipe.
Since you have the hub apart, you should inspect the brake shoes and (brake) wheel cylinders and replace them as needed. Replace brake parts on both sides if you replace them on either.
Put the hub back into the brake shoes. It may only line up one way. Finger tighten ALL FOUR of the bolts and then tighten. Replace the tire and remove the lifting equipment. Start slowly so the brakes can readjust!
This is a very simple job to do. Raise the front of truck off the ground,block the rear tires. Using pliers and a hammer,remove the grease cap from hub. Remove the cotter key and nut from axle,pull out slowly and remove outer bearing. then remove hub from axle. To remove inner bearing ,prop hub on a board and use a large punch to drive out bearing and seal. Clean out inside the hub and install new bearing and seal. Replace all parts in the reverse as you took them off. Hope this will help you.
sounds like a bad wheel bearing..if drum brakes,remove drum and center cap from wheel bearing..remove center nut and pull bearing from spindle..replace hub/bearing assembly and center nut..if disc brakes,remove caliper/rotor,and hub/bearing assembly
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting in General Diagnosis.
Remove the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Remove and support the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Brakes.
Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Remove the ABS sensor wire connector.
Remove the four bolts from the control arm.
Remove the hub and bearing from the control arm.
Remove the brake shield from the control arm.
Clean the control arm face and the bore before installing the hub and the bearing.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the brake shield and the hub and the bearing to the control arm with the four bolts. Be careful not to drop the hub and the bearing, as it could be damaged. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Tighten the hub and bearing bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Disc Brakes.
Install the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).