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Back in the old days... Wow... This is upsetting...
(that was the extent of PLASTIC on the RUBICON)
There was a time when I knew these things... I helped a couple of buddies start a SUCESSFULL 4-wheel drive SHOP... but by the time Rubicon was becoming popular... I automatically knew
these things (the name) DANA SPICER was eluding me
but it is starting to come back. I did these things (4 wheel mechanic) because people that were dear to me liked it...
I enjoyed putting them together.
I have only been off rode a couple of times (in non-military equipment) and it was NEVER with fore thought... but always life & *****... Breaking'em...NOT MY cup of TEA.
(enough about this old guy).
ONE OF THE right people... on fixya is Juriy Hawrylak
I don't actually think anything is sticking out... I think the end cap from your HUB-LOCK is missing... and I thin if you are resourceful you can find the right manufacturer... and buy the part.
Just for visual assurances I'm going to put an eBay hub on the bottom of this article
This locking hub fit Dana 44 and gm 10 bolt front axles to include Chevy GM Blazer and Suburban K5 K10 1 2 ton and K20 3 4 ton 4X4 Dana 44 or Corp 10 Bolt front axles with...
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QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
First off do you have manual hubs or auto hubs. is the stick on the floor or is it push button?? Kinda sounds like if it is manual hubs you have to lock in then they are not locking in to give that tire power, you can get new hubs from a parts store but i suggest you to get the WARN hubs do to they will last longer than stock hubs..
large O-ring that holds in the lockout,just on other side of outside cover with 6 allen head or torque screws,little snap ring around the axel shaft outside end of spline,everything you see all the way to the ratchet nut that holds the rotor-hub on.The ratchet nut has 4 notches in it,stop there way inside.
This is clearly not a job that's lubricated with some WD-40. The high temperature and pressure generated in the hub is simply too great for a lubricant of that nature.
Heavy duty wheel-bearing grease is what you need. And they are available at most autoparts stores.
In some typical cases such as when the front-hub plus the black-cover and the 10-small bolts are stuck or eaten away by rust then some light lubricant such as WD-40 could be used to loosen up.
There is a small o- snapp ring under the grease around chrome hub. Clean gease and then remove with an automtive pick. That will lead to nother snapp ring. Exloded view autozone.com. You still need a spanner socket to remave bearing nut.
I found a website that explaned that you can remove the hub and dust cover, inside is a spring which holds the hub out, removing this spring and replacing the rubber dust cover and hub will lock your front hubs in continious. as is done on later models, This has worked for my 98 4wd
Good lighting will help. Also, use a brake cleaner spray or penetrant to clean things off so you can see .I have a 1996 F150 with push button 4WD with manual locking hubs. Dana 44 axle. Yours may be similar. For front wheel, remove locking ring just inside the inner edge of the hub housing (once you remove the manual hub locking switch, 6 screws on mine, could be 3 on others). Not conspicuous, took me awhile to find. Your hub locking assembly will appear to be recessed just behind its edge goes around outer circumferance. Next, Remove the locking spring (looks like a washer) around the very end of the spline shaft. This is towards the center around the shaft. There is a silver looking retainer ring you have too pull it over, use very small standard screwdriver. Locking mechanism should pull right out after that, giving you access to the outer bearing adjustment nut. Use 4 prong wheel bearing nut socket readily available at auto parts stores. Remove adjustment nut. Next, remove spacer that fits into keyway on shaft. There is nothing holding it on, just pull it off. Beneath that there is another bearing nut, remove this also with 4 prong socket. Just pull hub off after removed. Sometimes rust will keep you from removing at this point. Just get a good penetrant lubricant, spray on and let soak, repaeat if necessary . You can also get a plastic 4lb+ dead blow hammer to assist. Bang on rotor from inside to out. Be prepared to service wheel bearings, they fit into the inside of the rotor/hub assembly and will be dislodged when you remove it. This is as far as I have gotten myself. Good Luck.
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