2007 Mazda CX7 2.3 turbocharger. Installing rebuilt engine for it and wiring harness and have a bundle left to connect but I don't know where it goes?
The harness is approx 4 feet long in front of car in center and the connector is round shaped. Also there are ridges on the connector. They asks for the help
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In order to avoid any possible damage while installing your turbocharger or premature operating problems, either of which could invalidate the warranty, please follow these simple intructions carefully and completely.
1) Ascertain why the old unit failed, you don't want the same problem to recur and damage the new unit.
2) check for cleanliness. the smallest particles of dirt can do irrevocable damage to a turbocharger so check engine intake/exhaust and aftercooler systems for cleanliness and obstructions, carefully removing oil, pieces of gasket, dust, dirt and other debris. Replace the air filter.
3) Check the oil inlet and oil drain flanges are clean and free from obstruction, internal carbon and sludge, removing them to clean if necessary. if in doubt replace with new.
4) Replace the oil and filetr
5) Check that manifold casting is not cracked on the outside or breaking internally.
6)Mount the turbocharger on the exhaust flange checking that turbine inlet gasket fits correctly to give a gas tight seal.
7) Connect the oil drain pipe using gasket supplied - do not use any liquid gasket products.
8) Fill the tubocharger oil feed hole with clean engine oil and rotate the rotor by hand.
Finally connect all external fitting to the turbocharger. Start the engine and idle for few minutes, check the oil is not leaking and the warning sign does not come up, check all connection for possible leaks using soapy water.
If your looking for a route to run the wires follow the existing wiring loom through the firewall. The loom uses pre-drilled holes with rubber inserts so you won't have to drill any new holes. You can use small zip ties to secure it to the bundle of wires on the loom to keep thing tidy.
code p0001refers to fuel volume regulator control--circuit open===causes --wiring --regulator control solenoid
code p 0002 refers to same unit ---circuit range/ performance===causes --same as as for p0001
check for loose /dirty harness connections
replace fuel pressure regulator
The Dealer will not help you without charging you your right arm and left leg. After checking your alternator and battery, it is probably the battery ground wire that goes into the wiring harness. You have a bare wire in there that occasionally shorts everything out. You can do a "quick fix" by just grabbing the harness where the ground goes in and moving it a little. Eventually, you will have to have someone cut that bundle open and find the bad wire and replace it. This is a poorly engineered vehicle. I will not be buying another dodge EVER.
Yes, It's a very good possibility that you will have a few wires left over. Normally a wire for an aftermarket amp to be triggered on when you turn your radio on and possibly a power antenna or a dimming function that dims your radio lights when your headlights are on. It of course always depends on if you have a power antenna or not, or if you have an aftermarket amp or not or if you have the dimming feature on your car or not. These wires don't apply to everyone. You will just match the colors between the wiring harness that came with the DUAL radio and the interface adapter that goes to your car. Make sure you use **** style crimp connectors. If not the wires could come loose or cause a popping noise or cause the radio to turn off while driving. Other than that, installing an aftermarket radio is mostly matching the colors up between the two harnesses and crimping the wires together.
Same chewed red vacuum A/C damper line passenger side. splices to black line above the AC coil box. Removed battery and holder. Loosened A/C dryer mounts from inner fender. Removed fan motor. Interior passenger side lower right corner of the air input damper is the entry port for the black vacuum line. Removed clear rubber entry port weather plug/seal. Pulled the damaged black line out of the weather plug/seal. Ran a wire fish line from interior to exterior below left corner of the fan motor. Taped new line to fish tape and pulled new line into the cab. Reinserted new line into weather seal and reinstalled in reverese.
First problem: "turbo charger overboost" In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power. The car goes in the "limp home" mode!!! After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded 1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2. 2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3. 3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory! 4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
Second problem: "glow plug #4 cylinder circuit open" Swap another glow plug in good condition by another cylinder, and see if the fault still occurs. If not, then this mean a faulty glow plug. If yes, then there is a bad harness. Please do rate my response. Thanks!
When draining the coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and
are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or
in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity.
Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be
reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Disconnect the O2 sensor wire clamp and connector.
I just replaced my starter on my 6.0. There are three wires, one that comes directly from the starter itself about 3 inches that hooks onto the solenoid and then there is a smaller connecting wire to the solenoid and the big connector to the solenoid and that's it. The ground is right there on the block that is part of the starting harness too. I hope that helps. This is not a solution and I had no problem so I don't know what to classify this info as:)
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