The ignition is functional in that it is completing the ignition circuit or else it would not start from pushing
could be a problem battery ( have a load test done ) bad ground points , faulty starter relay
if the ignition switch is not operating right when it is turned to the start position it could be not making all the circuits needed to crank the engine and supply power to the ignition
OK what do you suggest? It's a 2005 PTCruiser..I've already spent $700 on clutch ,tune-up ECT. And mechanic is telling me another $400 to replace ignition.
go to a wreckers /junk yard that wrecks your make of vehicle e, get an ignition switch separate it form the key barrel ( so that you maintain key and immobilizer operation) and fit it in place of the switch
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It sounds like the rod which goes from the key cylinder down to the slide switch has come loose. The rod is along the bottom side of the steering column (or insidie it). If you reattach the rod all should work again.
SOURCE: my lights and everything power is working, but the
First check fuse #7 in the engine compartment fuse box as well as fuse #37 in the cabin fuse box.
Next, is your security light on? If yes, the problem is your anti-theft system probably not recognizing your key.
If fuse is good and no security light, next (assuming you have an automatic trans) try moving the shifter while you hold your foot on the brake and the key in the start position. This is a check on the adjustment of the safety interlock. If this doesn't work, you might also want to try shorting the terminals in the interlock by pulling the connector off and putting a paper clip in the connector terminal and shorting the brown/pink and tan/red connector terminals together to see if that will let the car start (the interlock switch is on top of the transmission where the cable attaches). This will tell you if the switch is completely dead.
If none of that works, check the relay in the engine compartment relay box by the battery. Does it click when someone turns the key to start? If not, pull out the relay and interrogate the socket for the command signal from the ignition switch (see my post here on how to interrogate a relay socket: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check)
First check all socket terminals with a test light. There should be 2 hot terminals in the relay socket with the key turned to start. If there is only one hot terminal, replace the ignition switch. If there are 2 hot terminals, try swapping the relay with the horn relay. If that works, buy a new relay.
If none of the above resolved the problem, probe the other 2 terminals (the ones that weren't hot in start) in the socket. This time, connect your test light clip to a hot point. One of the 2 terminals should light the test light brightly and the other one dimly. If neither terminal lights the light brightly, you are not getting a proper ground signal from the PCM, indicating your security system may be activated.
If all of the above is good, try jumping the solenoid. (see test 2 in this post: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over)
If that works you know you have battery and starter for sure. If not, replace the starter.
Let me know if you have any questions at all. I know this is a very complicated set of instructions. :o)
SOURCE: the key is in the
Your steering locks could be in a bind. Is your steering wheel turned to the side? Try moving the steering wheel while trying to turn the key. If this is not the case, then you most likely have either a worn-out key or a worn-out ignition lock cylinder assembly.
I would first try a different key if you have one. If there is not another key, I would take the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) to the dealer along with proof of registration and picture ID, and have them cut a NEW key using the key codes for your vehicle. If this does not work, then you will probably have to replace the ignition lock cylinder assembly.
SOURCE: So my truck is an 1989 Chevy scottsdale, C/K1500.
THe power and grond wires from the battery have been an issue on that truck for years. Firts - the ground wire goes to the aluminum accesorie bracket on the front of the engine. oddly enough it will supply enough of a ground to run the engine,fuel pump,lights,radio ect. but not even click when the key is in the start position. usually when this happens the little wire coming from the battery ground wire going to the fender naxt to the battery to a 10mm bolt is burnt also as it usually tries to carry the current to start the engine but cant so it gets burned up. Move the ground wire from the accessory bracket to an intake manifold bolt on the right front of the intake OR the thermostat housing bolt where the pcm wires are connected. make sure you clean the bolt in which you move the cable to.
now.... another problem is that the + and - cables can corrode inside of the casing and you can not tell sometimes. sometimes you will see a swollen spot or bubble in the cable where is has corroded and is no longer making contact inside the insulation. Once again until it completely fails inside the insulation it will run some of the vehicles accesories. I was stumped on one of these at the dealer once and never forgot what i just told you. FRUSTRATING so dont feel bad. I hope i have helped you - Good luck! Scott
Have you checked the automatic shut down relay ?
It powers the injectors from a 20amp fuse number 5.
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