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Engine electrical points connections - 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door

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Dodge raider engine removal

It is best to remove the engine /tranny as a unit. Remove all things that will not allow the engine to move forward and up such as radiator. Undo the manifolds at the heads. Undo all electrical connections and use masking tape to number the connectors so that you know where each one is connected. Get a good engine hoist and use a load shifting lifter bar ( a tool that has a hook point that is adjusted by a threaded bar ) so that as you can adjust the center of gravity of the unit on the hook. As you come forward you can alter the lift point so that the tranny drops to the rear allowing you to lift the unit at an angle to get it up and over the front bar of the body Remember to drain all oils before you start and it won't be half as messy. Remove the bonnet as well for more room

Jul 28, 2013 | 1989 Dodge Raider

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Engine randomly cut out while driving or idiling,,, sometimes starts right back up other times takes a couple minutes... Cause?????

Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John

Apr 23, 2012 | 1984 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

How can I open the trunk/boot with complete electrical failure or battery is dead?

use jumper cables to power the fuse box or whatever hot point you can find in the engine compartment. The big terminal on the starter solenoid or the back of the alternator are both hot points. Connect the negative jumper to the engine or a bare metal spot on the chassis. Be careful to only touch the hot terminals with the positive jumper, and just touch the terminal long enough to open the boot.

Jul 04, 2011 | 2007 Jaguar XKR Convertible

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I have a 2000 suburban and when I start the engine it runs fine until I turn on the a/c. The idle drops almost to the point the engine is going to shut off.Could this be that my condensor is clogged or...

Sounds like the electrical load sensor that helps maintain the idle speed when extra current is drawn by the system is faulty or the connection to the sensor is poor. On later model vehicles the electrical load sensing is done by the Engine Management Computer.

Jul 29, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

Apr 19, 2010 | 1981 Ford F 100

1 Answer

VW POLO 1.9CL Diesel 1997 wont start

hi from uk check the main lead from battery+positive to the starters solenoid is secure ? also there is a thin wire that also connects to solenoid on a terminal of its own this is the solenoid energizing wire that works starter when key start position is selected if all above is ok? then use a jump lead and connect one end to battery negative post then the other end of lead to a suitable earth point on engine ? then try starting? if it works/starts ? you have a bad earth connection to engine from battery negative lead check the earth lead connection at point on engine is clean/secure ? it usually is secured by bolt at point where engine and transmission connect ? hope this helps?

Mar 26, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Thermostat housing replacement

These are the steps to replace the thermostat but are applicable to remove and replace the housing also. 2.0L DOHC Zetec Engine WARNING Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs the service change interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Drain the engine coolant to a point below the water thermostat.
  3. Disconnect the connector from the camshaft position sensor.
  4. Remove the bolts and move to one side the water hose connection.
  • Remove the water thermostat and seal from the water thermostat housing.
  • Inspect the seal and the water thermostat.
  • To install:
    1. Replace the thermostat and seal into the housing.
    2. Connect the connector to the camshaft position sensor.
    3. Fill the cooling system.
    4. Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
    5. Stop the engine. Top off the coolant recovery reservoir as necessary to maintain minimum cold fill level.

    2.0L SOHC Spi Engine
    1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
    2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
    3. Drain the engine coolant to a point below the water thermostat.
    4. Disconnect the water temperature indicator sender unit and the engine coolant temperature sensor electrical connectors.
    5. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the heater coolant hose from the water thermostat housing.
    6. Remove the water thermostat housing bolts, the water thermostat housing, and the water thermostat.
    To install:
    NOTE Make sure all of the gasket surfaces are free of all gasket material. Make sure the tabs on the engage properly into slots in thermostat housing.

    1. Install the thermostat housing bolts, thermostat housing and the thermostat.
    2. Connect the upper radiator hose and the heater coolant hose to the thermostat housing.
    3. Connect the water temperature indicator sender unit and the engine coolant temperature sensor electrical connectors.
    4. Fill the cooling system with only Ford Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (in Oregon F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-8-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification in a 50/50 mixture with water.
    5. Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
    6. Stop the engine. Top off coolant recovery reservoir as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.

    Dec 07, 2009 | 2000 Ford Escort

    1 Answer


    I would take the car to an autoparts store and have the battery condition and alternator output checked. Most parts stores will do this for free. Since the message displayed indicated an engine electrical problem, checking the battery and alternator output is a good start toward isolating the problem. The generation of this message indicates a possible problem in the starting/charging system and these areas would be a good originating point. Check that you have a good and clean engine ground and clean and tight battery connections. I find that electrical problems are the worst to troubleshoot and sometimes you find the problem simply by process of elimination and careful observation. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

    Sep 25, 2009 | 1989 Buick Riviera

    1 Answer

    Engine light on

    ok, this valve is located on the actual evap canister. here is some steps on removing it from the canister below and a picture as well.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Remove the EVAP canister.

    3. Unplug the vent solenoid valve electrical connection.

    4. Remove the valve by pulling it from its mounting.

    5. If necessary, lubricate the valve O-ring with Merpol O-ring seal lubricant seal or its equivalent.

    If the valve is marked with a direction arrow, make sure it is pointed towards the engine.

    6. Install the new valve and attach its electrical connection.

    7. Install the EVAP canister.

    8. Connect the negative battery cable.


    Apr 24, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

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