Question about 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Engine will Not Fire

New plugs new cat and brakes new ignition wire, getting strong battery starter and ignition however engine will not turn over on first crank will fire on subsequent cranks thought fuel filter? or fuel pump?

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Could be either...you can replace filter/regulator on top of tank sending unit and re-check. You can also try instesd of cranking on first try, just turn the key to run and leave it like that for a minute, then try it. If it starts, likely the fuel pump is draining back when off. If neither help, check to see if on initial start, you get a small puff of black smoke from tailpipe...if so, likely you have a leaking injector. (line pressure loss at engine end of the fuel system through injector) This is the "backyard diagnosis" Otherwise tests can be made using pressure gauge installed on fuel rail.

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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1 Answer

1993 F350 turbo idi wont always start


There is a safety switch on top of the brake pedal lever or clutch lever which is suppose to prevent lurching on start-ups. It is suppose to insure that the Brake pedal is pushed OR the clutch is down before the engine will crank.

The Ignition switch is interrupted by the above cutout switches. But when Ignition is turned on, the Glow plug timer should click and cycle if Power Relay is giving it juice. So if you do not hear that type of clicking, the glow plugs will stay cold.

I would check to see if power is going to the Power Relay above the glow plug timer, and if it is getting power, does the Power Relay send it to the Timer? The starting circuit is more involved in a Diesel because the fuel must be atomized by heating it for initial starts. But you must be getting this process if jumping the solenoid results in the engine starting.

Therefore the big test is whether the small wire to the starter solenoid is dead when a foot is pressing the Brake or clutch pedal when the Ignition key is in the STARTER position.

So either your Ignition switch is bad at the STARTER terminal position or the signal is interrupted by the anti-lurch Interlock switch. It is quite common for problems with this switch being hit and broken or displaced by the Drivers' feet.

There was also no indication of whether you jumped the solenoid on a warm engine which could atomize the fuel by compression or a very cold engine which needed the glow plugs to work.

Please comment on my info and report your success.

Mar 27, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wont start, engine turns strong, new battery, new plug wires?? Thinking coils are bad???


take off one plug wire from one of the coils, turn starter and see if a spark jumps, you will be able to hear the sparks if you are by the door turning the key. if you get no sparks the ignition module is bad, if you do get spark try same test for remaining plug wires one at a time. you may have a bad coil

Sep 23, 2011 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jun 15, 2011 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

VW golf 2009 TDI 2000 170cv. Engine turning over, strong battery, engine won't fire. No sign of any ignition firing at all?


u sure or is it fuel--chec wires for flaws and inspect plug cables and coil--ignition module may be bad--fuses cud hav issue and maxi fuses and link to battery also--fuel pump and its regulator mite be failin--injectors cud not be gitten a pulse

May 22, 2011 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L Replaced starter,


Here is a pic of a schrader valve. They all look about the same.3.jpg
If there isn't much pressure, cycle the ignition without turning the engine over and try again. If it is still weak, you may need a new fuel filter. If it is strong, you may have dirty or clogged fuel injectors.

It may be spark, but I'm inclined to think it is fuel related.

Good luck, and keep us in the loop!
JT

Mar 15, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

I have a 1992 Toyota MR2, one evening I cam out to go get a movie, went to start the car and all that happened was the starter started clicking rapidly. I turned the ignition switch off and the starter...


This sound like a more common issue than we in the mr2 community would like to see. The cars are old and the ground wires tend to wear out. But normally the gas pedal cable becomes the place were it grounds out and start a fire. get a cheap ground wire kit for the engine compartment as well as put a few on the battery. Also check existing ground wires. Hope this helps!

Jun 30, 2009 | 1986 Toyota MR2

1 Answer

1995 Cavalier engine quit and won't fire


could be the crank position sensor

Apr 04, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

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