Question about 1999 Ford Explorer
Make sure that the witness marks on the cam and the crank are in sync with each other. then check for tdc on #1 and check the rotor position relative to #1 on the distributor and see if it mates. time the engine per the factory spec. the haynes manual will tell you all that if you get one from the parts store.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Jul 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Oct 20, 2013 | 2004 Ford Explorer
Mar 27, 2013 | 2001 Chrysler Concorde
Removal & Installation
Fig. Timing belt routing and timing marks-3.5L Engine
Fig. Timing belt and related components-3.5L Engine
Fig. Adjusting the tensioner pulley-3.5L Engine
Fig. Measuring the auto tensioner rod-3.5L Engine
Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover & Seal
Removal & Installation
Fig. Timing chain and related components-3.8L Engine
Fig. Left timing chain markings and installation: (D) exhaust camshaft sprocket (C) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
Fig. Right timing chain markings and installation: (C) exhaust camshaft sprocket (B) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
Fig. Sealant application (1 inch bead width)-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover sealant application-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover gasket installation (A) gaskets-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover bolt torque sequence and specification-3.8L Engine
May 19, 2012 | 2004 Kia Sedona
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
Dec 20, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
SOHC Engine See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
Fig. Fig. 1: At 90 degrees past TDC, the crankshaft sprocket timing mark and keyway will align with the main bearing cap split line
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprocket assembly-SOHC engine
Fig. Fig. 3: Insert the timing pin to ensure that the camshaft is at No. 1 TDC-SOHC engine
Fig. Fig. 4: When the camshaft is at TDC, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees to achieve TDC
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