Question about 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

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Rear brake cylender replacement

Rear brake cylender leaking i replaced it but when i tried to bleed i cannot get any fluid out of either rear cylender would power bleeding fix the problem

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Have you tried gravitiy bleeding yet? if not try that and see what happens , also use a silicone based brake fluid it will held with the old trash filled lines a bunch.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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I am working on a 1993 f-350 with a 7.3 diesel the truck came to me with the brake pedal going to the floor... the customer had already put 3 new master cylenders on it along with a new brake booster......


I would ask where you got the master cylinders from. Were they new, or rebuilt? If the front brake pads look good and no apparent problems from the calipers, it can only be 2 problems. First, is there a leak somewhere in the system. If you have confirmed that there is none, then the master cylinder is 'bleeding' from front to back. Air wouldn't be a problem as you seem to have bled the brakes well, but the only sure way to know is using a bleeder. They run from a simple hand vacuum device to an air powered device which forces brake fluid thru the system.
Since your 'customer' replaced the booster, make sure the plunger rod is set correctly. Perhaps it is not set at the correct length, in which case you will never get a pedal. Diagnosis for this is a pressure tester to see if any pressure is being generated by the calipers.
Good luck. Hope this helps.

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I replaced my front brake router and brake pads today. when i bleed the front left brake, a line which im assuming is a brake line near the rear left tire burst and is leaking brake fluid. when u tried...


First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

Mar 22, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

I re placed the master cylender and now i got no brakes in the back at all


You will need to bleed the system. If you did not bleed the master when you installed it, if it has bleed valves, use them to get the air out...if not, step down lightly on the brake and at the same time, loosen the line fitting a bit till fluid comes out. Then, bleed rear brakes the same way using bleed screws on the cylinders or calipers. Begin at right rear, then left rear, then r/f and l/f. Don't permit the master to run dry or you will have to begin all over again. Also check all lines to make sure nothing under the vehicle is leaking. While bleeding don't take your foot off the brake till the bleeder you are working on is closed, and don't push really hard on brake as that can damage the cylinder internals.

Jan 23, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

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My brake pedal slowly goes to the floor and the engine make a whining noise on my 2001 F-250 diesel. Why?


wellyou may have one of a couple of different problems.
1. if you have recently wrked on the brake system you have air in the system and need to bleed it.

2. if you are lossing fluid you have a leak in a line or caliper or rear brake cylnder

3. your Master cylender is going bad

your engine is making noise do to the power boost on the brakes being maxed out

Oct 16, 2009 | 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

1 Answer

Hard to push brake pedal down to stop.


1. Check brake fluid level and look for leaks in the brake lines and at the calipers.
2. Bleed the brake fluid completely and replace with fresh fluid (google search: how to bleed brakes). Then bleed air by having someone press the brake pedal 4-5 times, then press and hold while you open the bleed valve and close when fluid streams out. start with the rear wheel (if 4wheel disc brakes) then move to the front.
3. Replace Master Cylinder (sorry, but if 1 or 2 didn't fix it, this is the last option) This is usually over $150, and will involve step 2 again when completed.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Brake problems


The brakes don't create air, so it may be your bleeding procedure.

Always start at the right rear wheel, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Pump the pedal 3, maybe 4 times before you check the reservoir. If it ever goes dry, you MUST start over.

If you still get dirty fluid from the lines, then you have not purged all the air from the system. The clean fluid chases the dirty fluid, with a bubble of air in between.

You must also be sure to close the wheel cylinder port while the pedal is depressed, open when the pedal is being depressed. If the port is open when the pedal is released, air will be sucked back into the line.

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