Question about 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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I have a 1998 chevy s1o blazer 4.3 hooked it up to a computer said 1 and 2 was running lean said to change both oxygen sensors so i did and it still hestitates when u pull out like it has a miss and it pops but after a few minutes it takes off but misses a little while driving and only misses really bad when u try and pull out in reverse or forward

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  • 3 more comments 
  • robn36 Jul 19, 2009

    if it was the air flow sensor wouldnt it not go at all

  • robn36 Jul 21, 2009

    code showing is a p1870 something about transmission

  • robn36 Jul 21, 2009

    would the p1870 make it feel like it was missing while driveing

  • robn36 Jul 21, 2009

    thank u very much

  • robn36 Jul 21, 2009

    even if im sitiing still it feels like it is missing is that the same problem



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Please reply with the exact error code(s) you pulled up.
Some vehicle's codes have slightly different meanings and solutions.


Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 21, 2009

    P1870 is common. There is a valve that wears the body and will start to stick. It will be most noticeable during the 1-2 upshift as the computer will have to increase the pressure to work the sticking valve. If you haven't had the code long enough for the sticking valve to wear out the clutches you can but a tool to fix the valve body and replace the valve.

    The problem really is the lockup coverter. The trany is taking too long to lock or unlock the convertor. When the computer detects this has occured twice in a row, it goe into OS mode. It decides it's slipping so it turns it's pressure up to the max. You get kicked in the A everytime if shifts from 1st to 2nd?

    When is the last time you checked the fluid? Make sure it is correct color and amount... then look into THIS THREAD to find an aftermaket fix for your problem. (Trans Go Kit)


  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 21, 2009

    This comment in particular:

    No, if the CEL is on and if it's a 1870 code.
    Typical it will be OK when it's cold. It takes a lot of stop and go, or a little freeway to bring it up to failure temp. So every day things start off OK, but the shifts are a little off. If I was driving on the freeway at about 50 then slowed down and speed back up it would do something strange. It seemed to slip or shift gears slightly back and forth. Anyway after it's warm it starts to shift hard from 1st to 2nd even at light trottle. The problem is the lockup coverter. The trany is taking too long to lock or unlock the convertor. When the computor detects this has occured twice in a row, it goe into OS mode. It desides it's slipping so it turns it's pressure up to the max. You get kicked in the A everytime if shifts from 1st to 2nd.
    Why this occures is on of GM's trans improvements. On the older version of this trans. (and those with the shift kit installed) you will feel it when the convetor locks and unlocks. Some ******** at GM desided this is a bad thing. His fix is insted of just locking and unlocking, he came up with a PWM system that would slowly lock and unlock by slipping the clutch in the convertor. To do this the PWM valve in the valve body bounces back and forth rapidly as the clutch locks or releases, as oposed to just moving once from lock to unlock. Guess what this does? It wares out part of the valve body! Are you getting the big picture yet! GM fixes this by replacing the valve body. The new ones don't have this failure mode (so says GM). The Trans Go kit make all of the shifts short and sharp, you will feel it every time the convertor locks or unlocks. It occures just above 40MPH at light throttle.
    Hell, I could have told him that would happen! As part of the kit you will modify the servo and add springs. I do not think you will need a Vet servo after the kit is installed. If you do your homework first, you might get the job done in 5 hours. It took me longer, I did not know how to remove the servo.
    Good luck. Also if your fluid is burnt, you will need a rebuild. The seals and clutches will be fried

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 21, 2009

    See the first part of the last quote i posted...

    "Typical it will be OK when it's cold. It takes a lot of stop and go, or a little freeway to bring it up to failure temp. So every day things start off OK, but the shifts are a little off. If I was driving on the freeway at about 50 then slowed down and speed back up it would do something strange. It seemed to slip or shift gears slightly back and forth."

    Its not really "missing" it is missing GEARS - not misfiring in the cylinders. The tranny is slipping in and out of gear.

    Thats what you are experiencing as a "miss"

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 21, 2009

    Check the fluid level and condition first to rule that out.

    It is the simplest.



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Related Questions:

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If you are lean both in bank 1 and bank 2, how do you fix it?

Probably is the Oxygen sensors are bad seems i had same problem a few years back and had to replace the sensor. Hope this helps

Jul 04, 2014 | 1998 Ford Expedition


Which Oxygen Sensor Is It?

There are many inquiries online about which oxygen sensor to change. Oxygen sensor failure codes are very common on a lot of vehicles. With all of today's vehicles having at least two oxygen sensors and many having three or four of them, it can be a little confusing as to which one is causing the problem.

Before we get into which sensor is which, we need to have a little discussion about oxygen sensor fault codes. There are several different types of oxygen sensor fault codes. Here are just some of the most common ones:

P0135 "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank1 Sensor 1"
P0141 "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2"
P0147 "Oxygen Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 3"
P0152 "Oxygen Sensor Voltage High Bank 2 Sensor 1"
P0159 "Oxygen Sensor Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 2"
P0171 "Oxygen Sensor Lean Sensor 1 Bank 1"
P0172 "Oxygen Sensor Lean Sensor 1 Bank 2"
P0174 "Oxygen Sensor Rich Sensor 1 Bank 1"
P0175 "Oxygen Sensor Rich Sensor 1 Bank 2"

There are many more possible oxygen sensor codes, but I only listed these to make my point. Many times the oxygen sensor code is NOT caused by the oxygen sensor itself. "Lean" or "Rich" oxygen sensor codes (i.e. P0171, P0174) are usually caused by something other than the oxygen sensor. Something is wrong, causing the engine to run lean (not enough fuel or too much air) or causing the engine to run rich (too much fuel or not enough air). In these cases, replacing the oxygen sensor will not fix a thing. (That is, unless you are trying to fix your bank account from having too high of a balance!) The new oxygen sensor will just set the same code as the original one. This is because the oxygen sensor is not CAUSING the problem, it is only REPORTING the problem.

High voltage codes (like P0152 above) can be caused by the oxygen sensor wires being shorted to another wire inside the wiring harness. Sometimes these codes are caused by bad grounds where some other component is trying to ground through the oxygen sensor circuit. Again, replacing the oxygen sensor will not fix this! In short, the problem needs to be diagnosed before running out and buying an oxygen sensor.

Just because a fault code has "Oxygen Sensor" or "O2 Sensor" or "O2S" in its description does not necessarily mean that an oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. Many do-it-yourselfers believe that all there is to fixing the car is to hook it to the "magic box", collect the fault codes and replace the parts the computer tells you to replace. There is nothing further from the truth.

Fault codes only point you toward which SYSTEM is failing. The system must be diagnosed to find the CAUSE of the failure. If this is not done properly, it will only result in wasting a bunch of your money. This is what you were trying to avoid by doing it yourself!

So, after reading all of the above, if you think you still want to replace an oxygen sensor, but don't know which one; here is how to figure it out:

Oxygen sensors are always numbered like this:

Bank 1 Sensor 1
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Bank 1 Sensor 2
Bank 2 Sensor 2

Some manufacturers use a kind of shorthand that reads different, but means the same thing:

Sensor 1/1 or O2s 1/1
Sensor 2/1 or O2s 2/1
Sensor 1/2 or O2s 1/2
Sensor 2/2 or O2s 2/2

Bank 1 is always the side of the engine where cylinder #1 is located and, of course, Bank 2 is the opposite side.
On a 4 cylinder engine, there is only one bank and it is always referred to as Bank 1. The exception to the 4 cylinder rule is on certain 4 cylinder engines (specifically, some Toyotas) there are two catalytic converters used. In this case, Bank 1 sensors will still be in the pipe for the catalyst that is connected to cylinder #1 and Bank 2 sensors will be in the other one.

Sensor 1 is always the "upstream" sensor (the one located BEFORE the catalytic converter).
Sensor 2 is always the "downstream" sensor (the one that is located AFTER the catalytic converter).
Sensor 3 refers to the ONLY "downstream" sensor where there are two sensors before the catalyst and only one after the catalyst. On very few vehicles the reference to this reads "Bank 1 Sensor 3".

If you do not know where cylinder #1 is, then you need to get a diagram of the firing order for your engine. Just post a question on and make sure you give the YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, and ENGINE SIZE of your vehicle and one or more of our experts will be happy to tell you how to find cylinder #1.

ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician

Also check out this article by dttech: What Else Could Be Wrong?

on Apr 29, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I put a new oxygen sensor on my 1999 chevy 4x4 blazer and it still has code p0146

This is Oxygen sensor circuit has no activity Bank 1 sensor 3 That means the computer sees no change from bias voltage (451mv) to a plus voltage (451mv-890mv) and a drop voltage (359mv-100mv) best describe as a open circuit must test at computer pin to determine open in wiring.

Nov 10, 2013 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Diagram oxygen sensor

With a single exhaust, one in each y-pipe leg, one for each bank. Sensor 1 bank 1, sensor 1 bank 2. Sensor 2 should be after the cat. Sorry, I don't have decent picture.

Sep 01, 2017 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Bank 1 sensor 1

The code means the sensor is staying in lean or rich mode for too long. The computer is supposed to adjust fuel mixture to make the exhaust switch back and forth from lean to rich every 10 or 20 seconds.
If the engine is not warming up the emissions system will not go into closed loop which allows the computer to make the adjustments.
Do you know if the engine is reaching normal temp ?
Any exhaust leaks upstream ?

Jan 16, 2013 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

My 2001 Rav4 engine light keeps coming on. We had it hooked up to a computer and it said that it was "running lean". The suggestion was to change the spark plugs and the oxygen sensors. We have changed the...

It sounds like you have a large vacuum leak after the mass air flow sensor. This would induce a lean running condition and could cause a stall. Check the rubber air intake bellow for cracks or tears. Also check for disconnected or broken vacuum lines.

Oct 04, 2010 | 2001 Toyota RAV4

2 Answers

98 blazer random multi misfire, bank one lean.

replece the distributer cap and rotor button

Jul 23, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Check light on black smoke,fuel consumption,the scan read PO 171 please what is the problem.

Sounds like a faulty oxygen sensor, telling computer that engine is running lean, so it's dumping more & more fuel to try & correct it. Bank 1 oxygen sensor.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Avalon

1 Answer


Possible failed bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor..

Mar 29, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

P1133 code

I have a 1998 Chevorlet Monte Carlo, and a I just got a p1133 code a week ago. I have my own diagnostics equipment, and the code is for "Oxygen sensor insufficient switching(upstream)"
I believe the codes are manufacturer specific so the code should be the same for all chevy's. The upstream oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust system before the catalyic converter. An ideal voltage for the sensor is .45v, but the sensor should switch between .1 and .9, when there is insufficient switching it causes the engine to run both too lean and too rich at times. Too lean could cause the engine to missfire and run rough. Hope this helps.

Aug 02, 2008 | Chevrolet Colorado Cars & Trucks

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