I've recently removed my rear trailing arm to replace it with a new one but the new trailing arm didn't come with the spindle on it. I started removing the spindle from the old one and can't get any of the star bolts on the back to budge. In the process of trying to remove them I stripped one of the bolts. Do I need to purchase a new spindle or can it be removed some other way?
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Jan 20, 2014 - Uploaded by Tony Downs
Polished Sti lateral link install on 2008 Subaru Forester Sports XT. ... Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushings ...
According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure: NOTE
do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.
WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward. Over-extension of the halfshaft joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the halfshaft joint.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Use extreme care to not damage the ball joint boot seal.
Lower arm ball joint nut and pinch bolt. Discard them.Lower arm from the front wheel knuckle
Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
Install or connect the following:
Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Hold the hex on the attaching link stud while breaking the nut loose. The attaching link does not have to be removed from the strut.
Caliper assembly and rotor from the hub, if equipped with rear disc brakes
Brake flex hose from the support bracket and wheel cylinder, if equipped with rear drum brakes. Plug the brake flex hose to prevent system contamination. Do not allow the rear caliper to hang by the brake hose. Support the caliper off of the frame with a strong piece of wire.
Speed sensor cable routing bracket and tube, if equipped with Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
Lateral links to the rear spindle assembly bolts
Rear strut assembly-to-stabilizer bar attaching link at the stabilizer bar
Remove the rear spindle-to-strut assembly pinch bolt. Install a center punch in the hole on the spindle and tap the punch into the hole until jammed. This will spread the spindle casting allowing it to be removed from the strut.
Using a hammer, tap on the top surface of the spindle, driving the spindle down and off the end of the strut assembly. Let the spindle and assembled components hang from the trailing arm while the strut is being serviced.
From inside the trunk of the vehicle, remove the 3 upper strut mounting bolts and remove the strut from the vehicle.
Disassemble the strut by performing the following procedure:
Service of the coil spring requires the use of a coil spring compressor tool. It is required that 5 coils be captured within the jaws of the compressor tool.
There are three, we'll call them bars, that go to the rear spindle on your century. The one that goes forward toward the rear door of the car is called a trailing arm. The other two which goe towards the center of the car are called lateral arms, and there is a front and rear. The rear lateral arm is usually the one that gets bent. These three arms position the lower end of the strut/spindle assembly, and if one or more are bent, your rear wheel alignment will be out of whack, and your car will drive funny and you will wear out your tires.
You are on the right track, you can buy those bushings. Just go in and ask for the rear control arm bushings and they should be able to look it up and get the right ones for you. I have a 91 Camry, great cars.
The recall for your vehicle may or may not have included replacement of the trailing arm. The recall says that the trailing arm is to be "inspected" then it will be replaced, or modified at the discresion of the person performing the inspection. If it was "replaced", it would require the control arms to be disconnected and reconnected. If it was only "modified" there would have been no disassembly of the control arms required. See the picture below. The picture shows the rear suspension parts. Notice that the upper control arm and the lower control arm bolt to the trailing arm. (which is what also houses the hub and bearing with the wheel speed sensor.) I hope this helps you to resolve your issue.
There are 3 rods in the rear that attach to the rear knuckle, two that run side by side. The one closest to the front of the car is the front spindle rod, and the other is the rear spindle rod. The bar that runs from the back toward the front is the rear trailing arm. I hope this helps.
Wiper arms are fitted to a tapered and splined shaft and they can become very tight on the shaft even without the problems of poor maintenance - when servicing a vehicle I always loosen the wiper arm retaining nuts and apply a small amount of chain lube and retighten. Subsequent removal becomes a little easier and the chance of snapping a wiper spindle much reduced.
These days few wiper arms can be removed without using a small gear puller that is sold by tool outlets for the purpose of removing most wiper arms. Recently a colleague needed to manufacture a "special" for a particular car because mine wouldn't fit.
Rear wipers receive no maintenance at all generally and being more exposed to the weather, salt, road dirt, corrosion can be a big factor when removing the arm from the spindle. This is especially so when the rear wiper arm is plastic with a moulded-in ally hub. I have in the past had to resort to carefully cutting and grinding away the arm in order not to risk the spindle or the glass.
I suggest you try a wiper arm puller and a little gentle heat and if that doesn't seem to be working then cutting, grinding or drilling would be the best solution, after protecting the glass with lots of forgiving material...