How do I change the clutch master cyl on my 1984 mazda t4100 truck

Just take the cap off the master cylinder, open the bleeder on the slave cylinder, an let it bleed a few seconds. Close the bleeder and refill the master cylinder. put the cap back on then just use the clutch a lot while sitting. The unit WILL reset itself and work properly. It may be low to the floor for a bit, but will work, but it will finally bleed all air back to the Master cylinder. These hydraulic clutch units can be a pain to deal with at times, but they work well after it's scared you a few times. My old Toyota ruck has done this to me.

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Can you see the clutch slave cyl?
Is it extended fully?
Is this condition after you bled the system?
Try opening the bleeder on the slave cyl in case you have full pressure in the system right now.Also make sure the new master cyl rod from the clutch pedal allows the master cyl to return fully to it's retracted position or the pressure will build up an lock the pedal as yours is.
You want a little play in the clutch pedal rod to master cyl.

ok new clutch. did you replace the throw out bearing? what about the pilot bearing,replace that too?these are the main squealers in clutches. if you push in on the clutch w/engine running does the squeal stop?[if so i suspect throw out bearing] if it squeals either w/clutch in or out,i suspect pilot bearing. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com if you need further assistance,please repost your question to fixya.com

The truck must be a standard trans? If you can shift it with the motor not running, but not with it running, then most likely the clutch master cyl must be low on brake fluid. It must have a leak. Sometimes you can add brake fluid, then pump the clutch pedal slowly and you might be ok. But you will need to get it repaired.

it is the same deal as brakes it is easy to do and the same things you need to cange master cylinder for the brakes is the same for this little project tools and all the master cylinder for the clutch is smaller then brakes master cylinder and only has one line going out so its a small task

If you've not done anything to your truck, check the Clutch master cylinder under the hood, there is a resivoir that should have brake fluid in it. It usually sits next to the Brake master cylinder & is a smaller unit. If nothing has been done to the system recently, and your fluid is full, either the Clutch Master Cyl. or the Clutch Slave Cy. mounted on the bellhousing of the trans. is defective, or has a leaking connection.

If leaking connection, tighten & bleed the system. Check under the clutch pedal on the floorboard for brake fluid, if you find it, the Clutch Master Cyl is the problem & will need ot be replaced. Otherwise, the Clutch Slave Cyl. will need to be replaced. System has to be bled after replacing either & the Clutch Master Cyl. must be bled before hooking up the lines to the Clutch Slave Cyl.

Good Luck

good luck.

rod activates master clutch cyl and has lost the seals in the master-fluid is migrating back on rod

check the line from the reservoir to the transmission for leaks, unfortunately its most likely the slave cylinder in the bell housing. Look under the bell housing of the transmission for any brake fluid at the weep hole as that would be your indicator of the slave cylinder leaking.

crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl and get some one to slowly push the pedal see if any fluid shoots out if not you may have killed the new seal in the master cyl.
it sounds like you did every thing right its just that old cylinders get were in them and if you don't hone them out and put a new sleeve in them quite often you will rip the new seal apart on the first pump of the pedal.
any way check for presser and let me no