Question about Chevrolet S 10

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I have a Chevy S-10 ZR2 with 140,000 miles. I was driving at 30 mph (foot not on accelerator, just coasting) in heavy traffic, once the traffic ahead started to move, I accelerated and the vehicle stalled with no indication lights or noise of any kind. I pulled to the side of the road, placed the key in the off position, and then to run. Noticed that no lights came on during the lamp test, other than battery and security. Tried to start the car, with no response, totally dead. The battery voltmeter shows 12v and the radio and other accessories work.

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Thats happen to me twice and the battery was bad

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I ask a question on what is the drive cycle to reset obd for toyota2005 rav4


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle
  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
  • Step Four: More City Driving
    • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
    • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
    • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
    Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
    • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
    • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.

Feb 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Chevy Impala 3.4L Base


were the motor & trans mounts checked?

May 26, 2017 | 2001 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Stuttering acceleration


Has the engine light come on yet?

Mar 28, 2014 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Not Ready for Smog test


it is not how many miles but the type of driving.

here is a OBD2 drive cycle test.

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)
  1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
  2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
  3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
  4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
  5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
  6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

Jun 04, 2010 | 2001 Kia Sephia

2 Answers

Reset computer in doege stratus wont pass inspection drove 50 miles and computer still didnt reset help


U have to operate the engine at all kinds of diff speeds and drive modes, it is called a OBDII drive cycle, here is how u do one.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel2_bing.gif trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge

Jun 02, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

98 Chevy Lumina has front end noise (rumble) from 10 mph and above. It gets increasingly louder as you accelerate. It does not change by coasting or applying the brakes. Also does it in reverse but not...


I may be a wheel bearing. Try shifting the weight of the car on the front tires by turning the wheelslightly while driving about 30 MPH. Don't turn enough to change lanes, just enough to put the load on the outside bearing. It may quiet down in one direction. The failed bearing is generally the side that you turned to in order to make the noise go away. Say the noise goes away when you steer to the right, the failed bearing is usually the right one.

You can also check for play by jacking up the car and shaking the tire. There should be no play.

Sep 06, 2008 | Chevrolet Lumina Cars & Trucks

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