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Clutch cylinder is the clutch cylinder,fixed to the engine block,the master or the slave

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No at the end of clutch pedal

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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I have a 1997 honda accord 5speed I don't know what it is but it like my clutch is not releasing to make the car take off it acts like I never release my clutch when I have it just idles why


possible failure is the clutch cable or clutch master cylinder ( which ever you have )
if it is a cable the cable wears and strands of the cable jam in the case stopping the clutch pressure plate from engaging
if hydraulic the compensating post in the master cylinder becomes blocked and does not release the pressure to the clutch slave cylinder
The fix will be to replace which ever you have

Feb 12, 2016 | Honda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Own a 1988 Ford F250 Custom. A few days ago I noticed that when the truck was put into gear, even on 1st, it took a bit for any power to kick in. Just the other night it just quit changing gears entirely....


i take it that in your statement " it took a bit for the power to kick in" you were referring to the clutch slipping or not engaging correctly
pressing the pedal and not going anywhere indicates a compensating port in the clutch master cylinder to be blocked
the best and cheapest fix here is a new master cylinder and slave cylinder as both are near their service life end
replace the hydraulics first as it is the cheapest fix first and then if it turns out to be the pressure plate , you will need new hydraulics to handle the increase pressure of the new pressure plate
all of your statement tend to master cylinder problems

Apr 25, 2017 | 1988 Ford F 250

2 Answers

Clutch for a 1993 civic ex


Could be your slave cylinder again,sometimes they don't last long,had one only last 10 months,go check your clutch master cylinder's fluid,if out,then slave cylinder is bad and should show signs of leakage.Another thing it could be if slave cylinder is good,then check the clutch master cylinder.

Nov 28, 2012 | 1993 Honda Civic 4 Door

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

2001 mercury cougar, master cylinder ran dry because slave cylinder below is leaking at the firewall. I filled the master cylinder and tried bleeding the clutch at the transmission until fluid stream...


No, you don't need to replace the clutch itself.
Don't be surprised if the slave cylinder replacement doesn't fix it.
Could be the master cylinder.

Sep 12, 2010 | 2001 Mercury Cougar

2 Answers

UNABLE TO ENGAGE GEARS WHEN ENGINE RUNNING ( CAN ENGAGE GEARS WITH ENGINE OFF ). CLUTCH PEDAL GOES STRAIGHT TO THE FLOOR WHEN PRESSED


Need to have it check could be clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder or hose from clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder.check brake fluid at clutch master cylinder sit next to brake master cylinder if empty could have a leak. fill and pump peddle and look for leak.

Jan 12, 2010 | 2001 Ford Focus

2 Answers

I have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but still don't have pedal, we have bleed the lines and checked for leaks, no leaks were found. The new slave cylinder doesn't seem to be...


Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!

Dec 14, 2009 | 1997 Acura CL

1 Answer

No pressure clutch pedal goes straight to the floor 1988 holden r


If hydraulic actuated mechanism, loss of fluid, defective master cylinder or slave cylinder at the clutch. Missing pin or other part between slave cylinder and clutch arm. Loose or broken slave cylinder mounting. Missing pin or broken part between pedal and master cylinder. If mechanical linkage, look for broken components or missing pins at moving joints. If you tried to shift into gear with engine running, you may have damaged the transmission gears.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1993 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor


Its sounds like a bad clutch cylinder or bad slave cylinder or fluid leaking. First check brake fluid level in clutch master , and check for a leak in clutch system. If there are NO leaks, then you either have a bad clutch cylinder or a slave cylinder. Bleed clutch at bleeder screw on slave cylinder and make sure there is pressure from master cylinder. If there is pressure then slave cylinder may be bad replace slave and bleed and that should take care of you problem. If master is bad then replace bleed system ad you should be good. Contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA.

May 16, 2009 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

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