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electric senders read the full range, you might have a faulty sender or it could be a new design on the pump and oil galleys that provides a consistent oil pressure. or the gauge itself could be stuck..
Have a reputable garage check the oil pressure with a manual oil pressure gauge. Very well may have worn internal parts, or weak oil pump. Thats the only way to know for sure.
Replace the oil pressure sending unit its giveing a false reading . The problem is when the engine is cold the oil pressure is low and it takes a little time to build up whem cranking the engine and that sends a signal to the computer PCM /VCM what ever but your 40 to 60 lbs oil pressure is graet its ideal .The unit switches when the oil pressure is high enough to trip the switch inside the sending unit and that is sent to the vehicle control module
First we would need to know when this occurs.
Asuming the oil level is at the full mark!. If the pressure goes up
during acceleration and down at idle when engine is fully warmed up,
then this is normal. An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per
1,000 rpm ( ex. 20 psi at 2,000 rpm, 25 psi at 2,500 rpm, and so on )
. If the gauge is moving back and forth erratically at idle , i would
say the gauge is bad. If it drops to 0 while accelerating I would say
your oil pump is bad. If from time to time it seems to work and other
times it seems not to work, I would say the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge is bad.
If the pump failed you would start to here a
Knocking noise from the engine in a short period of time. Use the
above scenario's to narrow down what it may be.
First we would need to know when this occurs.
Asuming the oil level is at the full mark!. If the pressure goes up
during acceleration and down at idle when engine is fully warmed up,
then this is normal. An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per
1,000 rpm ( ex. 20 psi at 2,000 rpm, 25 psi at 2,500 rpm, and so on )
. If the gauge is moving back and forth erratically at idle , i would
say the gauge is bad. If it drops to 0 while accelerating I would say
your oil pump is bad. If from time to time it seems to work and other
times it seems not to work, I would say the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge is bad.
If the pump failed you would start to here a
Knocking noise from the engine in a short period of time. Use the
above scenario's to narrow down what it may be.
Get a pressure gauge and see what type of pressure this this vehicle is giving you at idle and at about 2000 RPM's. Your gonna have to remove the oil pressure sending unit/switch to screw in the pressure gauge. If its giving you the prescribed pressure while testing, worse case scenario is over. ( oil pump, engine wear) If your not getting the prescribed pressure with the testing gauge, its either the oil pump or engine wear or both. Have a Certified ASE Technician look over the vehicle if this is the out come. There is additional testing to be done which requires additional tooling expertise in this area.
Now if the pressure was within spec's with the test on gauge, its either the switch, the wiring to and from the gauge or the gauge itself. Get the Shop Repair manual for this vehicle for Oil pressure specifications as well as additional testing of switch , circuitry and gauge. This is fun stuff . Wear gloves and eye protection while removing the switch and screwing in the testing gauge and vise versa after testing is completed. Good luck
Make sure you are using a genuine Ford oil filter. The Ford filter has pressure valves in it to keep the oil where it belongs. Make sure you are using the proper weight of oil.
If the oil and filter are proper, it sounds like the oil pump pickup is clogged or there is excessive play in the crank bearings. The engine is running dry on oil because it is not pumping up until the oil is circulating completely through the engine.
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