Hello Stephen Hotrum,
Excellent question... (paint SYSTEMS & PROCESSES).
You just have to remember it is not the Pot that makes the chef, nor the pen that makes the poet... neither the brush (Binks, Sharpe or DeVilbiss) that makes the painter.
You are correct... there are "sealants" but NOT to do precisely what you are talking about...
The success or failure of your efforts is actually highly dependent on what you have already done... (at EVERY step).
As an amateur painter myself I have read a TERRIBLE LOT of paint can labels (something MOST body shops can ill-afford to do if they are going to continue to move cars at a "profitable" pace).
Although I was pretty popular for my nigh robotic spray technique (incredibly important for METALIC FINISHES)... I was more sought after for my metal working... The place where all TRULY GREAT "finishes" start.
Like building a house... if you don't put down a GOOD FOUNDATION... you can't achieve the modern, durable... delightful finish you are seeking.
I've found the greatest success can be attained by considering
your finish as a complete system... build completely compatible primers, surfacers, sealants top (color & finish ) coats... one on another... using a SINGLE PRODUCT line... Taking CARE & TIME to follow the PAINT CAN INSTRUCTIONS precisely.
Fact is... adherence (stick-to-itiveness = adhesion = success).
The ONLY way you will be assured consistent quality
is to consistently use your favorite product line... or compatible products.
Shortest story possible... You'd be wise to forget about having your OIL-PRIMER guide your painting project.
Start with your desired FINISH and build out to that
(just like you knew what you want when you are DONE...!!
While I own (still + HVLP) top of the line spray equipment... I never tackled a job with the idea that MY cost could even COMPETE with the price of a professional job... EVER.
$59.95 for a "Miracle"... $300 to $500 for My materials...!!
But my surfaces look today as good as they did 45+ years ago...
Hope this helped
Annealing metallurgy
Primer paint Wikipedia the free encyclopedia
Stylish Design for Automotive Body and Exterior Products
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/PPG_47101
Amazon com DeVilbiss 802342 StartingLine HVLP Gravity...
Buy DeVilbiss 802342 StartingLine...
Won't work-- two different types of paint on an oily surface
what will happen is when you apply the top coat it will go all wrinkly and peel off
Is there any way I can fix it with out having to remove the oil based primer (rustoleom rusty metal (red)p primer)
Like put a sealant
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SOURCE: small bubles appearing under red paint. Local
The only fix for this problem is to strip the entire truck and apply a good primer and base color than a few coats of clear all done in a professional paint facility, i have heard so many paint issues on the titans the factory paint is no better than a few coats of shiny krylon its thin and when it chips rust apperars within a few days, look at a chevy truck built in the cold harsh city of detriot thats about 10 years old with paint chips, you wont notice any rust because we here in the usa use a thing called zinc coating before the body is even primered
SOURCE: I just want to know
the basic shell of the car is cathodic dipped,then painted with a filler/primer before water based paint is applied,the final coat is dried by radio waves(really)any excess is recycled back to the paint plant ready for the next car.NO solvents are used in the whole process.YOU CANNOT BUY THIS PAINT.it is very similar to normal emulsion paint,although it will not dry in the air,it has to be heat dried/sealed.(in an oven)(check out you tube bmw z3)
anything you are painting needs sanding and primer for a good coverage
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Red rust primer
you specifically stated red oil based primer
what I tried to say is this--regardless of what you use , the primer and the finish coat has to be compatible or there will be finish problems
so oil based primer-- enamel finish
acrylic base primer , acrylic based top coat
to get the job right , talk to an automotive paint supplier
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