Ok we can't guess, one must do tests, (gue$$/or test)
in all cases check fuses FIRST! fuse 12 and 33, for sure.
the starter motor is dead, that is the real problem.
ill guess its a automatic trans and not the STICK. shifter.
if its a stick,then change PRNDL switch to clutch switch.
did you try to crank it , with the shift'er in Neutral. as the operators
guide told you to do ,if crank motor is dead,
if the dash lamp immobilizer lamp glows, no car starts, so....
next is jumper cable starts, my guess it fails.\
the new battery is probably ok, but the person cleaned the cable lugs first (this is first at first dead crank cleaning lugs)
ok say the battery is, head lamps bright, but will not crank.
what does that leave, (well the park,neutral switch and maybe a really or a bad starter)
in a shop we hot wire all starters, same way for 100 years now.
the mech uses a jumper wire at the solenoid on said starter motor
omg it cranks, see the starter is good, but the KEY LINE IS DEAD. (fact) if starter dead now, its a bad starter, all in seconds.
that last step takes me, about 15min work. and the job is now cut in half. on all cars made.
even a Model A ford.
not checking cranking In neutral is a huge error on your part.
as that uses fresh contacts in the switch. see?
that is why the manual tells you to do that.... RTM its a win/win.
im online now, with the starter, drawings up and it shows no starter relay, none.
yes, tapping the side of dead starters , gently can wake them up.
for sure a good idea if stranded and danger,
personal safety wins over , making fixed magnets go bad.
First check fuses. Next check the neutral safety switch. A quick check for this is to jump the starter relay. If it starts, replace the switch. If it doesn't, jump the wires/connectors at the starter. if it starts repair the ignition switch wire from the relay. Small wire on the starter.
Sometimes your starter hits a "dead spot". Wrap on the starter with a hammer.
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