Question about Ford E-Series

1 Answer

Water leaking from a pipe attached to the bottom of the engine at the rear of the engine also going through water every 2 days

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 123 Answers

Go to a near workshop

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Will a broken water pump cause anti freeze to mix with oil and drip


Yes, your water pump attaches to the front of the engine block. If a leak opens up between the two, coolant goes into the crankcase along with oil. That means water and oil are being circulated through the bearings and cylinders of your engine. Don't drive it in this condition.

May 10, 2017 | 2003 Chrysler Sebring

2 Answers

Coolant leak rear of engine


Square plate on rear of head with rubber hose attached in middle ck hose and for best results replace gasket on plate.

Feb 09, 2014 | 1996 Geo Tracker 2 Door

1 Answer

Need to know where the thermostadt is at. Have leakage but can't find any hoses etc leaking.


If you have the V6 (2.5L) engine, be advised: it's a wearing task. Just getting to the radiator drain plug can be a problem without a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, a 3 inch extension, a universal joint. and a 19 mm socket. The drain plug is on the passenger side of the radiator on the engine side. The 19mm socket will fit over the drain plug to turn it open.
The coolant plumbing on this engine is the craziest I have ever seen. The thermostat is on the rear face of the engine (where the radiator hoses connect), but not on the upper hose where it connects to the upright pipe with the radiator cap on it, it is on the lower hose connection. Pull that hose off the housing, and remove the three bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine. It will help if you first remove the big air inlet hose from the air filter housing to the throttle body. I wouldn't even bother with the thermostat till you have found the leak. Is any coolant leaking from the front of the engine, dripping off the bottom behind the crank pulley? That would be a water pump problem or SEAL, an o-ring on the back of the water pump. Now get on the driver's side and look around on the rear of engine nearest the firewall where engine and transaxle mate. Look down there for signs of coolant coming from rear of engine and running down onto the transaxle case. There is a metal pipe laying in the valley below the lower intake manifold, connecting the water pump at the front and the rear housing where the radiator hoses and heater hoses connect. This metal pipe uses an o-ring for a seal into the water pump, and the same size o-ring to connect to the rear housing. If one of those o-rings is leaking, you have a big problem getting to it.. I took the rear housing off once (never again!), Now I'm taking the water pump off to fix a leak. The water pump is run by the timing belt, so the front of engine needs to be stripped down, and the timing belt removed to take off the water pump. That metal pipe is held in place by a bracket with one bolt on the rear of engine; it may require taking the lower intake off (again) to get to both of those pesky o-rings. I hope you don't have the same problem, and if you have the 4 cylinder engine, the thermostat is a snap to replace, plus you don't have that crazy plumbing problem.

Apr 01, 2012 | 1997 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Good day we have a 7 seater mazda mpv w reg the car is losing coolant but no water is getting in the engine because the engine oil is not milky, but water is coming out of the air conditiong system at the...


Check heater pipes under the vehicle, as these have heater controls in the back of the car the pipes rust out causing coolant to leak out. cut the pipes and bridge them together as you dont require a heater in the rear of the vehicle. Costly if you cook the engine if its a V6, as you have to pull the engine out to do head gasket replacement.

Apr 11, 2011 | 2000 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

How to replace the water pump


Water Pump
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are
attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an
uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in
sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

2S-ELC Engines

  1. Drain the cooling system.
  2. Remove the timing belt as described in this section.
  3. Remove the alternator adjusting bar.
  4. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet housing.





    Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump mounting
    89553g42.gif



  5. Disconnect the water temperature switch from the water inlet housing.
  6. Disconnect the water by-pass hose from the water pump.
  7. Remove the two heater pipe clamp bolt. Remove the two nuts and heater pipe
    with gasket. Replace the gasket.
  8. Loosen the three water pump mounting bolts in the indicated sequence.





    Fig. 2: Water pump bolt loosening sequence for 2S-ELC and 3S-FE
    engines
    89553g43.gif



  9. Remove the water pump and O-ring. If the water pump is stubborn, tap it a
    few times with a rubber mallet.
  10. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure all the water pump and
    engine contact surfaces are clean and install the new O-ring into the pump cover
    groove.
  11. Install the water pump with the three bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence
    to 82 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  12. Fill the cooling system to the proper level with a good brand of ethylene
    glycol based coolant. Start the engine and inspect for leaks.

3S-FE Engines

  1. Drain the cooling system.
  2. Disconnect the water temperature switch connector from the water inlet
    housing.
  3. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet housing.
  4. Remove the timing belt and timing belt pulleys as described in this section.

  5. Remove the two nuts attaching the water by-pass pipe to the water pump
    cover.
  6. Remove the three water pump-to-engine attaching bolts.
  7. Pull the water pump and the water pump cover out from the engine.
  8. Remove the two O-rings and gasket. Discard them and replace with new.
  9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Secure the water pump onto the
    engine and install the three bolts. Tighten the bolts in an alternate pattern to
    82 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Install the by-pass pipe attaching nuts and tighten them to
    82 inch lbs. (9 Nm) also.
  10. Fill the cooling system to the proper level with coolant.
  11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

5S-FE Engine

  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Remove the timing belt.
  3. Remove the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring. Remove the No. 2 idler
    pulley.
  4. Disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water inlet.
  5. Remove the alternator belt adjusting bar.
  6. Loosen the two nuts and disconnect the water by-pass pipe.
  7. Remove the three pump mounting bolts in sequence (middle, top, bottom) and
    then pull out the water pump and cover. Remove the gasket and two O-rings.





    Fig. 3: Bolt removal sequence for 5S-FE engines
    89553g46.gif

    To install:

  8. Replace the two O-rings and gasket with new ones, coat the by-pass O-ring
    with soapy water and then connect the pump cover to the by-pass pipe. Do not
    install the nuts yet!
  9. With the pump loosely connected to the pipe, install the pump and tighten
    the three bolts to 82 inch lbs. (9 Nm), in sequence (top, bottom, middle).
    Install the two by-pass pipe nuts and tighten them to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  10. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each
    component to specifications.

2VZ-FE and 3VZ-FE Engines

  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water inlet.
  3. Disconnect the timing belt from the water pump pulley.
  4. Remove the bolt holding the inlet pipe to the alternator belt adjusting bar
    and then remove the inlet pipe and O-ring.
  5. Remove the water inlet and thermostat.
  6. Remove the seven bolts and then pry off the water pump.
    To install:

  7. Scrape any remaining gasket material off the pump mating surface. Apply a
    0.08-0.12 inch (2-3mm) bead of sealant to the groove in the pump and then
    install the pump. Tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).





    Fig. 4: Apply sealant on the surface of the water pump as shown

    89553g47.gif



  8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each
    component to specifications. Connect the radiator hose and fill the engine with
    coolant.

1MZ-FE Engine

  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Remove the timing belt.
  3. Mark the left and right camshaft pulleys with a touch of paint. Using a
    spanner wrench, remove the bolts to the right and left camshaft pulleys.
    Separate the pulleys from the engine. Be sure not to mix up the pulleys.
  4. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley by removing the bolt.
  5. Disconnect the three clamps and engine wire from the rear timing belt cover.

  6. Remove the six bolts holding the No. 3 timing belt cover to the engine
    block.





    Fig. 5: Unbolt the No. 3 timing belt cover from the engine
    89553p75.jpg



  7. Remove the bolts and nuts to the extract the water pump.





    Fig. 6: Water pump mounting bolt and nut locations
    89553p76.jpg



  8. Raise the engine slightly and remove the water pump and the gasket from the
    engine.





    Fig. 7: Pull the water pump from the engine and remove it from
    the vehicle
    89553p77.jpg






    Fig. 8: Always discard the old gasket
    89553p78.jpg

    To install:

  9. Check that the water pump turns smoothly. Also check the air hole for
    coolant leakage.
  10. Using a new gasket, apply liquid sealer to the gasket, water pump and engine
    block.
  11. Install the gasket and pump to the engine and install the four bolts and two
    nuts. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
  12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each
    component to specifications.

    • Rear timing belt cover - 74 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    • No. 2 idler pulley - 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)

  13. Fill the engine coolant. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery
    and start the engine.
  14. Top off the engine coolant and check for leaks.


prev.gif next.gif

Oct 31, 2010 | 1990 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

Wont hold water. big hose on the bottom of the radiator attaches 2 the engine and it leaks right out of the engine underneath that hose...


Well, if that Radiator hose is not leaking, then the Water pump seals have gone bad. More than likely you need a new water pump.

Vehicles w/ Timing Belt Driven Water Pumps Should Always Have The Water Pump Replaced When The Timing Belt Is Replaced.

If you do not, then the Timing Belt will fail, turning a low cost repair into thousands because of valve train damages. . .

For the Timing Belt & Water Pump KIT - its around $258 through NAPA
45e42d0.jpg

Oct 25, 2010 | 1995 Toyota 4Runner

3 Answers

Water leak -- 2000 Ford Windstar


Look for tell tale signs under the bonnet such as brown trails. Do you find water loss when the car is standing still unused or only after having used it. Be methodical, the coolant follows a pretty basic circuits: Primary: engine, thermostat housing, top radiator hose, radiator, radiator bottom hose, water pump (has the drive/fan belt running around its pulley) Secondary: engine rear top pipe, heater matrix for the cabin, return pipe to heater solenoid valve ( allows water to circulate to the heater matrix when you demand heat inside the car), return pipe to the water pump. If you find there is water loss irrespective as to the use of the car the fault should be easy to trace because it means that obvious drips should be forming or puddles created in the car. Note that many leaks in the coolant system only begin to show themselves when the engine is hot. The reason for this is that the coolant system in creases in pressure Checks 1) the coolant filler cap is on securely and that it has a good seal - if this leaks the coolant system fails to pressurize and the engine heat will evaporate the coolant or even steam off. 2) The water/coolant pump is common to both circuits and is worked hard. I always start here; if nothing else just to rule it out as it is a fairly expensive part to replace and the replacement procedure is involved. Check the interior of the engine bay for any sign of splash stains on a line perpendicular to the fan blade rotation. If the front seal on the water pump is leaking it dribbles water onto the pump pulley. When the engine is running this water is spread around in an arc like a garden sprinkler by the pulley and fan rotation. If no apparent engine bay stains are apparent look at the 'chin' of the pump for a vertical drip stain. A slow leak here can occur when the engine is running but the heat of the engine causes almost instantaneous evaporation of the evidence. During engine 'warm up' the water leak will leave evidence of itself as a vertical line of brown running down from the pump centre. 3) Having ruled out the pump another quick check, open the oil filler cap. An abundance of 'mayonnaise' on the underside of the cap and around the entrance to the oil filler means an internal water leak and this will require a cylinder head gasket renewal. ouch! 4) Check the radiator for stains front and back, even a tiny pin hole will leave evidence. 5) check that all the hoses are good and that there are no leaks where they are attach and that all jubilee clips are tight and intact. 6) Check the foot-wells of the car for wet carpets - a sure sign that either the heater matrix or the tubes attached to it are leaking behind the dash board is a soggy carpet. Dab a paper kitchen towel to the dashboard under side to locate the leak 7) Again check all the hoses and connections thereof for leaks. 8) Now a final check. The engine must be cold before you start this!!! Remove the coolant filler cap and top up the coolant to the normal level. Start the engine. Does the water in the coolant filler tank behave really violently and try to bubble out of the filler entrance. If so there is leak into one of the cylinders. This is frequently accompanied by very thick white exhaust gases as a result of steam and burnt glycol antifreeze. The only fix here is to renew the head gasket. If there is still no sign go over the list again but more thoroughly.. the water has to getting out somewhere. If all else fails take it to your garage and have them pressure test your system. Lack of pressure in the system and leaks are synonymous.

Apr 18, 2010 | 2000 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Water leak from radiator bottom right hand corner or pipe in area


Please the radiator has been damaged. Ensure you change it before it turns your engine off totally leading to engine change.

Be careful next time.

Good luck.

rate this fixya!

Apr 07, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Coolant leak


Hello **** B. First double check the hose connection for the leak, it can drain to another connection & appear to leak there. Second, yes there is a gasket on the pipe connection to the block. To replace the gasket, park the car in a location for least 5 to 6 hours to cool down mabe longer. Have the gasket replacement, a tube of gasket sealant, 2 gallons of antifreeze, a drain bucket, and a very large rag or rags. Remove the hose, catch the fluid in bucket, remove the pipe, clean the old gasket area, apply gasket sealent, attache gasket, mount the pipe, tighten all mounting bolts a 1/2 to 3/4 turn each until torqued downed evenly, and attache hose. Fill reservoir, with radiator cap off, start engine and add coolant to radiator until full and you see fluid flowing. Apply cap & check for leaks. Easy???????? Good Luck.

Oct 17, 2008 | 1995 Plymouth Acclaim

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

28 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5501 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...