Question about BMW 318
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Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Red/White or Red
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow or Black
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Green
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Purple/White or Purple
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Gray/Purple and Gray/Yellow. Use Both Wires. This vehicle has a dual parking light system that will require 2 extra relays.
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: At Factory Alarm Plug. The alarm plug is a black 12 pin plug located just behind the glove box.
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: At Factory Alarm Plug. The alarm plug is a black 12 pin plug located just behind the glove box.
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Brown/Gray
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Factory Alarm Plug. The alarm plug is a black 12 pin plug located just behind the glove box.
Dome light Supervision Wire: Turns On With Unlock
Dome light Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red or Brown/Yellow
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Black
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Instrument Cluster
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red or Green/Red
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Disarms With Factory Remote Only. Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System: Transponder Anti-Theft System, Requires Bypass And Extra Ignition Key. The 1996 model year vehicle may require a 791 bypass module and an extra ignition key, if vehicle is equipped with a special key from BMW.
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: Transponder At Ignition Switch Tumbler
Please tell me the year of manufacturing of your car so, that i can provide you with more specific information.
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
The only way to do this is with a service manual for that specific car. The lock system is controlled from an electronic control module that receives a radio frequency signal from your remote.Without a schematic and color code for the wires, it would be very difficult even for a technician.
The service manual will have the information and schematic for that module. It will cost you around 20.00 dollars.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
The keyless entry/alarm system was standard only on the Active Pkg 318ti in that year. Even that one was port-of-entry installed. You can get the same kit from a dealer and install it yourself with the instructions that come with it. As the sticker implies: your car is pre-wired for easy installation. Not too difficult though I've never done it on a ti. Most likely access to the installation/wiring is easier on the ti than an "normal" E36 that requires glovebox removal. If it were me, I'd be doing the factory kit, depending on the deal you get on the kit.
Each remote transmitter had a unique ID code and the car can store up to 4 ID codes.
1. Close all doors,trunk,and hood.
2. The security system must be in disarm mode and key must be removed from the ignition key slot.
Enter Code learning mode
3.Open trunk and leave it opened.
4. open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat
5. Close the driver's door.
6. Cycle ignition switch 5 times between Off and On (DO NOT START ENGINE)
The red status light will illuminate continuously, and the siren will chirp once to indicate that the code learning mode has been initiated.
The ignition switch cycling must be performed within 10 seconds.
The sequence in steps 1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds.
Register/Delete ID Code(s)
7. Open driver's door (remain seated in driver's seat)
8. Close driver's door
9. Press and relase any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status led will shut off momentarily to indicate that one id code has been registered.
10. Repeat steps 7 to 9 to register the remain the ID codes.
Exiting code learning mode
11. Open driver's door and exit vehicle, leaving the door open.
12. Close trunk.
13. Close dirver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will chirp once twice.
14. The initializaiton procedure is now completed; test all remotes to confirm operation. ----------- I installed the bmwalarm.com keyless entry system this morning. There were a couple of hitches but I was ultimately successful.
There are two things that I would warn others about if they decide to go this route:
1. Although it is called "plug-and-play", it really isn't. I expected to unplug my BMW keyless entry box (which came with the car but was not working) and plug this one in. That was not the case. You need to unplug the OEM wiring harnass that plugs into the "alarm port" located under the glove box. The harnass that comes with the bmwalarm.com system does not have a plug that goes into the alarm port. Instead there are 8 wires, each with a connector that plug into the alarm port individually (red wire to pin 1, yellow wire to pin 2, etc.). I decided to cannibalize the connector from the OEM harnass and hook it up to the new harnass to make this a cleaner and more reliable setup. One tip for others: the alarm port is difficult to reach, but it can be unmounted for easier access by sliding the entire connector forward after releasing a plastic catch. Shine a flashlight in there and it will be obvious.
2. My other, and more major, complaint is the installation and programming instructions. Although written in English, they are nearly incomprehensible. On the installation, several pages are spent on the mechanics of removing the glovebox, knee bolster, etc. but the electrical connectivity is not very well detailed and complicated by the fact that the instructions are covering two different models which connect differently. There is no troubleshooting guide. Once installed you have to program the keyless remotes and set the various features of the system. As an example, to enter programming mode you turn on the ignition and press the "valet switch" 3 or 6 times depending on whether you want "designated mode" or "auto mode". It turns out that "designated mode" means single button lock/unlock and "auto mode" means one button locks and the other unlocks. There are six features that can be enabled/disabled but I couldn't figure most of them out and ended up doing a trial and error discovery process. This was all made more difficult by the fact that the manual says you will hear confirmation "chirps" as you program the unit but I never heard any chirps and had to rely on the LED and carefully following the instructions.
Bottom line: I now have a keyless entry system. The fobs are about the same size as the orginal BMW fobs and the system works fine. The installation was a bit of an adventure. I would recommend this system only to the fairly brave Do-It-Yourselfer. check out and reply.will be always waiting to help you.when ever you require more help.please keep updated.please do rate the solution if helped.thank you for using fixya.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
You are in the right area from your pictures of glove box veiw
the left hand connector X13252 is the outputs to door lock motors, pin 1(lock), pin 9(unlock), pin 2 is earth back from door lock motors.
connector X13253 (middle connector) is input from master switch (pin 1 on switch colour RT/GN/GE pin 19 on BCM) eg power = lock request, no power = unlock request
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Hope this helps
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
Well, i have a link to help you.....
Please follow the below link -
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Hi ,to do this you need a wiring diagram of the alarm/cenral locking system the car uses a CAN-Bus system so unless you have an oscilloscope you won`t be able to see the pulses as they are in microseconds,if the car is under 3 years old give it back to the dealer to repair free of charge if not find a good BMW garage with dealer ship level diagnostics (Winstar BMW) you can then go into the system and find any fault codes and actuate the different circuits to find the fault.Be warned if you power probe the wires you will cause thousands of pounds worth of damage to the CAN network and potentially cause an electrical fire,if your not sure ,Take it to an expert it will save you time and money in the long run
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
The problems is not that clear..
but i guess you asking how to trace wire of the lock and unlock for keyless entry.. in BMW series (318) cars they are located in four colors.
orange/purple or green/black
Positive (+) drivers kick panel
Power Door (Unlock) (+) Door Unlock pink/purple
Positive (+) drivers kick panel hope that helps..
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
The answer is quite simple: I take a close look at all wires on the other door. I measure resistance to each wire on the WORKING side. I go back to the broken side and detirmine the bad wire. It takes time Kimosabe. But that my friend is the secret to how it is done.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
Door Trigger Brown/Red (-) Driver's Rear Side Pillar under Seat
Door Lock White/Red Behind Glove Compartment Factory Alarm Connector Positive Trigger
Door Unlock Blue/Red W/o Factory Alarm White (L) Blue/Gray (Unlock) 5Wire
If you require more help - please re-post.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
Is this a BMW factory kit you are installing? if not you are going to need a factory wiring diagram, but short of that locate the power lock relay, that is where you need to tap in for an aftermarket system. if this is a aftermarket system please give name and maker of system.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
I don't know what you have already covered but, Generally to trace a wire, first find the wire on a schematic that lists color code and color changes along its pathway. What I have always liked least about schematics is that they tell you a wire or component is there but not where. (none I've ever seen do) It seems that from what I can see that you have written, there is no power inside the door...The most common problem that causes that is where the door meets the body at the hinge end, there is a rubber boot containing the harness...most wires break right there. Sorry I can't offer much more but to diagnose electrical work without actually being there and doing testing is next to impossible (it's not easy even in person) And, entry systems are generally considered part of your security system and often are kept "secret" or anyone could defeat them. Then, tracing has to be done inch by inch.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
It sounds like you are trying to find a wiring schematic to trace the electric door lock system?
If so, the link below will lead you to a web site that will show you the wiring.
Good luck, let me know.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
Hi there ,
The basic diagram below should allow you to connect the keyless entry module, it is for US/CA models:
Legend: ITEM - WIRE COLOR - |POL| - WIRE LOCATION
| 12V red/wht or red |+ | ignition harness
| STARTER blk/yel or grn/blk |+ | ignition harness
| IGNITION green |+ | ignition harness
| SECOND IGNITION pur/wht or purple |+ | ignition harness
| POWER LOCK white/red |+ | factory alarm plug *1
| POWER UNLOCK blue/red |+ | factory alarm plug *1
| PARKING LIGHTS + gry/pur, gry/ye l *3 | headlight switch
| PARKING LIGHTS - blue/green (hazards) factory alarm plug *1
| HEADLIGHTS yellow headlight switch
| DOOR TRIGGER|*4 factory alarm plug *1
| DOME SUPERVISIO |comes on with unlock
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN brown/white |- | factory alarm plug *1
| HOOD PIN| purple/green |- |*6
| FCTRY ALARM ARM *7
|FCTRY ALRM DISAR *7
| TACHOMETER| black instrument cluster *2
| BRAKE WIRE| blue/red |+ | at brake pedal switch
| HORN TRIGGER brown/red |- | steering column
| WIPERS blk/gry and blk/blu |- | steering column
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|blk/wht - pur/wht |A |body electr control mod *5 |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/grn - yel/grn |A |body electr control mod *5 |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|blk/yel - blu/grn |A |relay module *5 |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|wht/yel - blu/red |A |relay module *5 |
NOTES: This vehicle is equiped with the EWS II immobilizer system that need to be bypassed when adding a remote start. Use DEI module 555B. *1 The alarm plug is a black 12 pin plug located just behind the glove box. It is mounted with the pins facing you atop a vent just to the left of the body computer. Other wires at the alarm plug are: 12V- red/white; Accessory- purple/white; Siren- black/blue; Ground- brown/orange. Do not use the power sources at the alarm plug to operate high-current devices. The other side of the siren wire is mounted in a 2 pin plug at the passenger rear corner of the engine compartment. The other wire in the plug is a brown ground wire. DEI recommends attaching the siren at this point. *2 The wire is located in a white connector behind the instrument cluster. Do not unplug the white connector with the ignition on or turn the ignition on with the plug disconnected. *3 These wires are the separate left and right parking light wires. Use both wires and isolate each. *4 Door triggers are brown/gray for the drivers front door, brown/blue for the passenger front door, and brown/white for the rear doors (if equipped). Use all three wires and diode isolate each. *5 The body electronics control module and the relay module are located behind the glove box. When using a 530T and locking and unlocking with the key will cause the windows to travel full direction. The 529T will not alter the factory operation. *6 Located in a single pin connector next to the factory alarm plug. *7 If equipped with a factory alarm, the alarm will be plugged into the factory alarm plug. The only way to arm and disarm the factory alarm is with the factory remote. If your planning on using the 8360 pre-wired alarm harness the factory alarm must absent or removed.
If that is not enough, then the best thing to do is getting a complete wiring diagram for your car.
If you register onto this forum you can get a free wiring diagram for the 318Ti 1996-US model, that is not much different from the europena one (on UK models driver side features are inverted).
A good thing to do when you decide to DIY your vehicle is also grabbing the repair manual for your model, with full diagram, and illustrated step by step repair procedures: BMW Automotive Repair Manuals.
If my comment had been helpful, then please do not forget to leave feedback, answering, researching and typing takes its time.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
The unlock wire is Green/Red, the lock wire is Blue/Pink. Common is ground which is the Black wire.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
Please find the details here..
Constant 12V+ Red/White Ignition Switch Harness Starter Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Green Ignition Switch Harness Accessory Purple/White Ignition Switch Harness Tach Black White Connector Behind Dash, Do NOT Disconnect Brake Switch Blue/Red Brake Switch Trunk Pin Brown/Red (-) Driver's Rear Side Pillar under Seat Parking Lights Left = Gray/Yellow Gray/Purple R at Light Switch Head Lamp Yellow Light Switch Hood Pin Purple/Green (-) Pin Switch under Hood Factory Disarm n/a Door Trigger Brown/Red (-) Driver's Rear Side Pillar under Seat Door Lock White/Red Behind Glove Compartment Factory Alarm Connector Positive Trigger Door Unlock Blue/Red W/o Factory Alarm White (L) Blue/Gray (Unlock) 5Wire Horn Wire Brown/Red (-) Steering Column
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The keyless entry is designed to work with the doors closed (closed - not locked). If the door ajar sensor thinks the door is open the keyless entry is disabled. When you manually lock the door it might tighten the door just enough to activate the keyless entry. I would try slamming all the doors closed and then see if the keyless entry works. If it still wont work have the wiring checked on the front door lock.
Posted on May 12, 2009
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