Swivel ball assembly

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

ball joint has gone or could even be the wheel bearing. jack up the front with wheel on and hand on wheel 9 to 3 and wiggle and then 12 to 6 do the same if there is alot of movement the bearing has gone. ball joint check all the connectors on that side steering etc if they move side to side easy then the ball joint has gone they should be stiff to move.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

remove the brake caliper then rotor. lare center axle nut. 3 twelve point 13mm bolts on the back side of the hub. wheel bearingh assembly should slide out. axle should come out by just pulling

undo neg on battery then undo the bolt on top of the light its very long. then pull the light out its in a ball and socket type connector hold it with both hands and left and right very hard. its hard on the fingers but you will do it. put some copper greese on the bolt and a little on the ball sockets. dont be scared of breaking it pull real hard.

Rear. 2 retainers PLUS a very tight ball socket holding the light assembly into place. Be ready to catch the tail light when you pop it of the ball socket.
Front. Use the headlight removal tool in the tool kit. Open front bonnet and push down and remove tear shape trim on headlight side in question. Place headlight tool onto spline and with one hand ready to "catch" the headlight, turn the tool until headlight pushes forward. Then remove headlight by hand and replace globe as required. Be careful of bayonet fitting. Can be fragile.

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.

1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
   
5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

There's not any special tools. You need a socket to fit the nut on the end of the axle and a wrench to take the nut and bolt off the bottom ball joint that slides through the control arm. Take a bar, pry down on lower control arm, pulling ball joint out, then pull the upper part out by hand, away from the car, slide axle out of the bearing assembly. Take a pry bar, put between trans and axle, give it a swift, quick ****. The axle should come out. Remember to always put jack stands under the car and be safe. Phil

Jack up the affected side and support vehicle on stands.

Remove nut that fastens onto affected ball joint;
Using a "pickle fork" (ball joint separator) hammer fork in between ball joint. Use at least a 5 Lbs. mallet to strike fork;
(Above: Blue wire is holding rotor assembly from flailing away after ball joint separation).

Using ball joint extractor, press out failed ball joint:



Then fit in new ball joint and reassemble rotor assembly.