Question about 2000 Honda Civic

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Fuel tank is leaking, looks like there is a plug missing in it, but not got a service manual 2 check

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    a plug where?

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  • 164 Answers

If you got leak it been hit ore a gasket is dry rotted

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

  • The Bad Chad Jul 24, 2009

    On ealry saterday oreyour day off go in the parts area of honda dealer
    Get the year make and model your car they can pull up the sketch of gas tank my be and you find the part from there that needs replaced.
    As long you know what it looks like ore whats broken ore dry rotted.
    Most the time there like plastic ore rubber gromets at the top the tanks that might dry rot.
    I not expert on Honda but i got take my take down and do fuel tank on my jeep and gaskets and rubber plastic part crack and break over time.
    On my friend jeep he had gas leak ended up being gasket on the pump and messed up the pump


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Service engine Soon Light On.Code Reads PO455. What is next?


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Your Code P1456 is a EVAP (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected). Normally this is a leak in the System and will not cause a Miss. The Fuel goes to the Fuel Rail and the Excess is sent back to the Fuel Tank via the EVAP System. There is a Purge Valve on top of the tank that is probably causing the leak. The Miss is another issue (Spark Plugs, Ignition, Coil, or clogged fuel filter) would be where I would start.

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The code is for a large leak in the EVAP system such as a loose or missing gas cap. But it could also mean a loose or missing hose to the canister or other leak in the tank.
The computer vents the tank several times an hour while the engine is running, and it checks the system by pressurizing the gas tank. If the tank will not hold pressure the code is set.
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My 95 7.3 turbo runs and idels good no miss but something is holdeing it back when u push the gas I have changed the fule filter and air


Here is what my Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual says for a noticeable lack of power, which is what you are describing.
1. Blocked air intake
2.Incorrectly adjusted timing
3.Blocked or damaged exhaust system
4.Obstruction in fuel filter
5.Blocked fuel tank vacuum vent in fuel cap
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My 1996 honda accord consumes too much fuel in a ratio of 1-6 km /liter, what seems to be the problem? I have it tuned up, cleaned the throttles, etc,, but to no avail. whats the best thing to do?


Since you've cleverly already done the normal tune-up items that preserve the 96 Accord's good fuel economy, its time to move onto the tougher adventures.

Cars with outrageously bad fuel consumption are losing fuel somehow (aka leaking).
(a) There's a fuel tank drain plug on the bottom of the fuel tank (used to drain tank for service) - make sure its tight and that the tank isn't leaking fuel there.
(b) check your fuel lines - there are 2 (one supplies fuel to the engine, and the other returns excess to the tank). If either is leaking, your car will lose petrol quickly.
(c) the evaporative fuel canister - instead of absorbing vapours, it may be full of fuel and leaking..
(d) check your fuel rail - its pressurized with fuel while the car is running - it may be leaking - and if it is: (1) the top of your engine will soon catch fire (2) the fuel may be evaporating as soon as it leaks, since the top of the engine gets so hot.

Use a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure in your 96 Accord's fuel rail - attach your
(with an appropriate (brass) adapter) to where the banjo bolt enters the top of the fuel filter - as
described in this passage from the Honda repair manual:

From the 1996 Honda Accord repair manual:
Note that this part of the Honda manual fails to mention that before you disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, you must note (and write down) the 3-digit radio lock code
--- begin excerpt ---
The Fuel System Pressure Specification


38-46 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch)Remove the ground cable from the negative battery post and also remove the fuel tank filler cap. Slowly release system pressure at the fuel filter and cleanup spilled fuel. Remove the Banjo bolt and install a fuel pressure test gauge. Reconnect the battery ground cable and proceed to start the engine and allow the system pressure to stabilize. While the engine is at idle, block off/pinch the number (1) vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and visually verify the fuel pressure reading on the test gauge.
--- end excerpt from 1996 Honda Accord repair guide ---

(e) possible leaking fuel pressure regulator - located at back of top side of engine, and looks like an
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(f) to move on from fuel - if you're getting only partial ignition, your fuel economy will suffer too - but you'll smell alot of unburned fuel in your exhaust (and get alot of backfiring). Use your HEI (high energy ignition) tester to rule out ignition (spark) problems.

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SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Symptoms may include no start, rough idle, long crank times, driveway die outs or erratic fuel pressure. A new fuel pump has been released which delivers improved performance. This pump should be used whenever fuel pump failures are encountered.
DIAGNOSIS:
Basic fuel system diagnostics should be used as outlined in the appropriate service manual. A brief recap of the basic diagnostics follows:
Fuel pressure specification - 49 psi - plus or minus 5 psi.
High fuel pressure indicates problems with the fuel pressure regulator. Refer to the service manual for regulator diagnosis. Do not replace the fuel pump for high pressure.
Low fuel pressure - Low pressure could indicate a pump problem or it could indicate a plugged fuel filter or restricted fuel line or no fuel in the tank. Be sure to check these items before replacing the fuel pump.
Fuel System Leak down - When checking fuel pressure be sure to check the integrity of the system after shut down. With the fuel pressure gauge connected, shut the engine off and observe the pressure gauge. The system should maintain at least 24 psi for five minutes after shut down. If the pressure bleeds off quicker, it could indicate that an injector is leaking down or that the pressure regulator is leaking. This can lead to driveablity problems and require further diagnosis.
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I would start here and look at your fuel system closely

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Check engine light is on for emission evaporator failure-large


P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak) The PCM monitors the complete EVAP control system for no purge flow, the presence of a large fuel vapor leak or multiple small fuel vapor leaks. The system failure occurs when no purge flow (attributed to fuel vapor blockages or restrictions), a large fuel vapor leak or multiple fuel vapor leaks are detected by the EVAP running loss monitor test with the engine running (but not at idle).
  • After-market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications
  • Disconnected or cracked fuel EVAP canister tube, EVAP canister purge outlet tube or EVAP return tube
  • EVAP canister purge valve stuck closed
  • Damaged EVAP canister
  • Damaged or missing fuel filler cap
  • Insufficient fuel filler cap installation
  • Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP system components
  • Blockages or restrictions in fuel vapor hoses/tubes (items also listed under disconnections or cracks)
  • Fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly blocked
  • Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck open
  • Mechanically inoperative fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor
Check for audible vacuum noise or significant fuel odor in the engine compartment or near the EVAP canister and fuel tank. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- HX43 DTC P0457: CHECK FOR MISSING OR LEAKING FUEL FILLER CAP
  • Check for missing fuel filler cap.
  • Check for loose fuel filler cap.
  • Check for possible cross-thread fuel filler cap condition.
Is a fault present concerning the proper installation of the fuel filler cap? Yes No REPLACE cross-threaded or damaged fuel filler cap. RECONNECT and TIGHTEN the fuel filler cap only one eighth turn so that the cap initially clicks by sound or touch. CLEAR Continuous Memory DTCs. COMPLETE an Evaporative Emission Running Loss Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (refer to Section 2 , Drive Cycles). RERUN Quick Test . If DTC P0455 or P0457 is present, Go to HX44 . CLEAR Continuous Memory DTCs. COMPLETE an Evaporative Emission Running Loss Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (refer to Section 2 , Drive Cycles). RERUN Quick Test .

For DTC P0455 still present: Go to HX44 .

Otherwise, INFORM the vehicle owner that it is important and necessary to immediately install the fuel filler cap after every refueling event. HX44 DTC P0455: VISUAL INSPECTION FOR SUBSTANTIAL EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAKS
  • Check for missing fuel filler cap. If the cap is loose DO NOT DISTURB EVAP system.
  • Verify that both the input port vacuum hose and EVAP return tube are attached to the EVAP canister purge valve. Note: If the EVAP canister-CV solenoid assembly is not accessible during this pinpoint test step, GO to Evaporative Emissions, Section 303-13 in the Workshop Manual for removal and installation instructions.
  • Verify that the CV solenoid is properly seated on the EVAP canister (if possible).
  • Visually inspect for disconnected or cracked fuel vapor hoses/tubes between the intake manifold, the EVAP canister purge valve, the EVAP canister, the fuel vapor vent valve assembly and if applicable the fuel vapor control valve tube assembly.
  • Check for damage to the fuel filler pipe and the fuel tank.
Is a fault indicated? Yes No CONNECT or REPLACE fuel vapor hoses/tubes as required. REPLACE damaged EVAP system components (fuel filler pipe, fuel vapor vent valve assembly, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly, EVAP canister purge valve, FTP sensor and EVAP canister-CV solenoid assembly) as necessary. REFER to Evaporative Emissions, Section 303-13 in the Workshop Manual for removal and installation instructions. GO to HX45 . GO to HX45 . HX45 DTC P1443 and P0455: CHECK FOR EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAKS
    Note: When checking for leaks or blockages in the EVAP system, energize (close) the canister vent (CV) solenoid through the scan tool for a maximum of nine minutes per pinpoint test step. Then de-energize the CV solenoid prior to performing the subsequent pinpoint test step. This is done to assure proper closing of the solenoid.
  • Disconnect and plug the EVAP return tube (EVAP canister purge valve to intake manifold) at the intake manifold vacuum source.
  • Connect scan tool.
  • Key on, engine off.
  • Access VPWR PID. If the voltage is not 12 volts or greater, GO to HX61 .
  • Locate evaporative test port [marked EVAPORATIVE SERVICE PORT DO NOT USE UNREGULATED PRESSURE ABOVE 6.89 kPa (1 PSI)] near EVAP canister purge valve or EVAP canister.
  • If vehicle is not equipped with the evaporative test port, GO to HX50 .
  • Install the Rotunda Evaporative Emission System Leak Tester 310-F007 (134-00056) or equivalent at the evaporative test port.
  • Close CV solenoid by accessing Output Test Mode on the scan tool.
  • Select ALL OFF mode and push START button.
  • Regulate the nitrogen or argon gas pressure on the tester to 3.48 kPa (14 in-H 2 O).
  • Follow the instructions that come with the EVAP System Leak Tester and pressurize the EVAP system.
  • Perform the EVAP system leak test.
Does the pressure on the EVAP system stay above 1.99 kPa (8 in-H 2 O) and pass the leak test? Yes No GO to HX46 . REMOVE the EVAP System Leak Tester from the evaporative test port and REINSTALL the test port cap. GO to HX50 .

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