Auto fluid was brown so when I drained it, only 2 litres came out, so put back 2 litres of fresh which came up to the hot mark on the dipstick. Fluid now still brown ( but not as dark as before.

Check the fluid level and quality in the transmission. Its dipstick is on the left (from sitting inside the car, US driver's side) often hidden by hoses/cables. It is the only fluid that must be check while IDLING. If the fluid is low and coffee colored, time for a drain/fill or maybe 3 drain/fill cycles. Only about half the fluid will drain out. 3 cycles of drain, fill, drive-a-little with fresh fluid can often clean some deposits out of the trans. You can also try , on the last fill, to put in a bottle of Trans-X additive. It has helped a lot of people with 'delayed engagement' problems. The low-high marks on the dipstick are only about a pint apart - not a quart like engine oil so, refill a tiny amount when close to full. Without driving the car, difficult to suggest anything else. You might post the issue at w w w.subaruoutback.o r g for more help.

Hi Peter, If your Camry has an automatic transmission, for normal driving the auto fluid should be changed every 40,000km, there should be a drain plug on the transmission pan that takes a 10mm hex drive or 17mm socket to undo. You have two choices after driving the car onto ramps or jacking up and supporting on jack stands so you can safely get under the car. 1 - You can loosen and remove the transmission drain plug to let the auto fluid drain out into a container (careful not to lose the sealing washer) refit and tighten the drain plug and washer again. Remove the auto transmission fluid level dip stick, using a suitable funnel pour about 2.5 litres of suitable new auto trans fluid back into the transmission via the dipstick tube (I believe they take dexron 2 of 3 type fluid). Start the car and move it onto a level surface. With the engine running, handbrake on and brake pedal applied, shift the transmission from park through every gear selection slowly into 1st gear, then back to park. Leave engine running. Wipe the dip stick & insert it back into the dip stick tube fully, remove and check where the fluid level mark is on the end of the dipstick. If the fluid level indicates low or does not show at all, add 100ml of additional fluid and recheck the level till the fluid reaches the full mark on the dipstick. 2 - The second option is everything in the first option but includes replacement of the transmission filter and pan gasket. I would only do this if the car had travelled high km or the pan gasket was leaking. At the point where you've drained the old fluid into a container and refitted the drain plug and washer, remove all the transmission pan bolts and the transmission pan. If you have the time to let the fluid drain overnight prior to removing the pan it's a good idea because once the pan is removed, fluid will continue to drip from the transmission. You'll need to remove the old pan gasket, some may be stuck to the pan and or transmission, a razor blade type gasket scraper can be good for this but be careful not to scratch either surface when cleaning off the old gasket. Remove the bolts/nuts that hold the transmission filter onto the bottom of the transmission. Careful caus more fluid may drain out of the transmission or filter once removed. Fit the new filter and filter tube gasket & bolts/nuts, careful not to over tighten. Fit new pan gasket, pan and bolts. Continue with fluid filling procedure from option 1. I would suggest you only use option one and remember to double check the drain plug is tight. Also, remember to dispose of the old fluid correctly. Cheers

V6 or 4 cylinder engine?

A trans drain and refill is about the same as an engine oil change.

Find the trans. Under the trans is an oil pan, much like the one on the engine. There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the trans pan.

Depending on the model of trans it can hold say 6-8 quarts of fluid. Only about 2.6 will drain out the pan as the rest is held in the torque converter.

The easiest approach is to measure how much fluid drained out and refill with the same amount.

The trains has a dipstick. Check fluid when hot, engine running after moving the shifter from Park to Low and return. The dipstick will have a "Hot" and "Cold" mark, use the hot mark if the fluid is hot. The stick will also have the type of fluid used, typically Dexron III or now called "ATF" fluid. Read the container to make sure it is a substitute for Dexron III.

As only 1/3 to 1/2 of the total fluid amount drains out of the pan at one time you will need to do a few drain and fills over time to get most of the old fluid out.

The dipstick is marked ATF Engine Oil and is close to the oil. Pull this dipstick out. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel. Look at the fluid on the paper towel. Transmission fluid needs replacing if it is brown. Fresh transmission fluid is translucent red.

you will check the oil with then engine off. Pull the oil dipstick (yellow one) and wipe clean. Reinsert the dipstick and pull out. The oil level should be in the hash marks. If the level is below the hash marks than start by adding one quart and recheck. One quart will change the oil level from the bottom of the hash marks to the top of the hash marks.

The transmission fluid needs to be checked with the engine running. Preferably warmed up to operating temperature. With your foot on the brake engage the transmission through all the gears and then back into park. With the engine still running remove the transmission dipstick (red one) and wipe clean. Reinsert the dipstick and pull out. The fluid level should be in btween the hot marks. If it is low start by adding 1/2 quart at a time through the transmission dipstick tube. You will need a funnel small enough to fit in the tube to do this. It will take a while for the fluid to drain out of the tube. Recheck check the fluid level and continue adding in 1/2 quart increments until the level is in between the hot marks.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

LEVEL CHECK Check the automatic transaxle fluid level at least every 15,000 miles or 12 months. The dipstick can be found on the left (driver) side of the engine compartment. The fluid level should be checked only when the transaxle is hot (normal operating temperature). The transaxle is considered hot after about 20 miles of highway driving.

1. Start the engine, set the parking brake, and put the transaxle selector lever in the P position.
2. Move the selector lever through all the positions and return to the PARK position. DO NOT TURN OFF THE ENGINE DURING THE FLUID LEVEL CHECK.
3. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and then reinsert it firmly. Be sure that it has been pushed all the way in. Remove the dipstick again and check the fluid level while holding it horizontally. With the engine running, the fluid level should be in the cross-hatched area.
4. If the fluid level is below the crosshatched area (engine hot), add MERCON® III automatic transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. This is easily done with the aid of a funnel. Check the level often as you are filling the transaxle. Be extremely careful not to overfill it. Overfilling will cause slippage, seal damage and overheating. Approximately 1 pint of ATF will raise the fluid level into the cross-hatched area. The fluid on the dipstick should always be a bright red color. If it is discolored (brown or black), or smells burnt, serious transaxle troubles, probably due to overheating, should be suspected. A qualified technician should inspect the transaxle to determine the cause of the burnt fluid. Fig. 1: Automatic Transmission dipstick location - Continentals
   Fig. 2: The dipstick is easy to read and well marked. Do not add if level is in the crosshatch area
   

The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission. Its torqued to 49 nM.
1. Remove tranny oil pan drain plug
2. Drain old fluid (roughly 2-4 quarts)
3. Reinstall drain plug.
4. Measure amount drained in a 99 cent orange juice pitcher from Walmart
5. Pour back the same amount drained using Toyota Type T-IV fluid (available in 1 quart bottles from a Toyota dealer.
6. Start engine and shift slowly through all the gears ending in Park.
7. Check fluid level on the dipstick. Add fluid, if necessary, to bring the level to a point inbetween the COLD and HOT marks on the dipstick.
8. Go for a 20 minute drive and recheck fluid level. Add fluid, if necessary, to bring the level up to,
but not beyond, the upper half of the HOT range on the dipstick.

As in 1973, NO FLUSHING is needed and NO FILTER REPLACEMENT is needed, NO PAN REMOVAL is needed. As, as in 1973 todays Toyotas have a metal mesh filter screen that doesn't ever get clogged except in rare cases of transmission operational abuse, including failure to ever change the fluid for 150,000 miles or more.

hi friend,

Average price for a flush (from what I've seen) is about $100 and is recommended for most cars about every 30,000 miles.

I think that checking the fluid is a better way to determine if a flush is needed. If it is nice and pink it's probably ok, if it looks like motor oil, it's overdue.

Every car is different, obviously if you tow a lot you'd need a flush sooner than if you didn't.

You can do it yourself (if you're mechanically inclined - see info below - this is for a Volvo... your car may take different fluid) if not take it to a shop and have the pro's do it.

Materials:

* 12 Pack Case of Dexron III/Mercon ATF (Costco has Chevron brand ATF for $10.79/ case)
* 4' Length of clear Vinyl tubing with a 1" Inside Diameter (available at Lowes or Home Depot for $2/ft or from IPD.)
* 1" Hose Clamp
* 14mm wrench
* 17mm open end wrench
* 1" open end wrench
* Metal Hangar
* 3 1-gallon jugs (or equivalent sized bucket) with quart markings-I used an old antifreeze bottle with the markings already on it and a sight line on the side.
* Funnel with ½" outside diameter hose about 1½' long-Used to fill transmission through dipstick hole.

Procedure:

Start by pulling the dipstick. On 960s, there isn't a dipstick handle. It's easiest to reach under the car from the driver's side and follow the dipstick tube up OR if you have a long ½" extension bar, you can push it into the top of the dipstick and pull it out. Without a ½" bar, push up the dipstick until it's all the way out (and either grab it or let it drop to the floor). Unwind and bend one end of the hanger so it will hook in one or more of the holes on the dipstick. Insert the tube from the funnel into the dipstick tube.you'll probably have to push it in from underneath the car. Pull it up on ramps (if you have them)-the transmission pan is angled in the rear where the drain plug is so this drains more fluid (14mm drain plug). When finished draining, pour what you drained into a premarked bottle and pour that amount of fresh ATF into the tr-anny (approx. 2qts). Push the car down the ramps onto level ground.

Unscrew the top cooler line at the radiator by using a 1" wrench as a counter hold so you don't break the connection. Pull the cooler line out of the 1" brass screw and push it gently aside. With the hose clamp already over the 1" vinyl hose, push the hose over the 1" brass screw and tighten the hose clamp (real tight 'til it begins to form to the sides of the brass nut). Put the end of the hose in the bottle/bucket. Have helper start the engine and let it idle (do not push the accelerator). Fluid will begin to fill the hose and bottle. If the hose is inserted into an antifreeze bottle with a tight fit, push the hose in slightly at the mouth to allow the bottle to vent (otherwise it may expand and explode). Allow 2qts to drain (Tell the helper to shut off the engine just shy of 2 qts as some in the hose will continue to drain when the engine stops). Add two qts of fresh fluid (+or- depending on how much you drained. Repeat until you've drained 8 qts and you see clean fluid. Tip: as you do this, drain each 2 qt run into gallon jugs so you can keep an accurate tally of how much you've taken out relative to the number of empty bottles of fresh ATF you put in. Carefully remove the hose and drain any fluid in it into the jug.note how much and add that amount in fresh fluid. Replace the cooler line and dipstick. Run the engine and shift through the gears. Take it for a short spin to heat up the fluid for measurement. While running the engine in Park, pull the dipstick, clean it off, reinsert it, and pull it again to measure.note the position on the HOT markings. If its low, add a little (keep in mind that if the HOT marking says you're ½ qt low, it won't take ½ to fill it because the ATF from the bottle will expand when heated. If it's overfilled, open the drain plug slightly to get some out. That ought to do it.enjoy your revamped transmission!
thank u for using fixya

regards,
sivaranjini

The best method is called 'Fluid Exchange" and is accomplised by a fluid transfer machine (very expensive). Call/go by your nearest Hyundai dealership. They can do it for you. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need the Hyundai specific fluid called 'SP III' (SP -w/3 I's) If you don't have this fluid exchange machine, best you have the technicians at the dealership do it. Here's the problem, you can't drain more than 3 quarts by draining the pan (Trans has approx 7 qt system). The majority of the fluid is in the torque converter (which does not drain)... that's why it's a fluid exchange process.

there is not usually a gauge for transmission fluid while the car is running you must pull the dipstick under the hood wipe it of reinsert and take out dipstick to read the results on bottom of dip stick there should be a hot reading line the fluid should come to .....or it could possibly say full or add also