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Shanna Ward Posted on Apr 21, 2016
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No crank no start no engine code , will start if disconnect battery to reset system

  • Shanna Ward
    Shanna Ward Apr 21, 2016

    Thanks. Yes, battery and connections are good. I might have to take it to the dealership to see if their scanner can yield any insights. From reading other WCM is my best guess, but I'm definitely not a car expert.

    Also to add:
    -issue is apparently intermittent - won't crank/start this morning or after driving the car for a few minutes, but this afternoon tried to start several times and it was successful (until driven)
    -can reset by disconnecting the battery
    -when it doesn't start the engine light is on, but no engine codes from OB II reader or using the key sequence to display engine codes in the odometer

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2 Answers

Randy Ohler

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  • Dodge Master 14,585 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2016
Randy Ohler
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Need some info. Does the engine turn over(crank)? No crank some times? Sometimes it does and Starts(engine running). After driving, no crank? If so, replace the starter. Want to make sure? Next time it won't crank. Hit the starter with a hammer or some thing hard as some one tries to crank it over. If it starts. There's your proof.

jack layton

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  • Dodge Master 5,569 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2016
jack layton
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Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good.
Yes, a module resets when you do that, the question is, which module? On the can buss system there are about 15 modules, can one module cause problems for others, yes.
If you have good enough info to locate all those modules and disconnect, one at a time, to see if other systems will work, fine.
You might be able to use manufacturer specific scanner to communicate with modules, to track it down. Those type scanners can be expensive. I don't have one.
Just about anybody here answering questions can crank the starter motor for you, just for testing, but, that doesn't mean it will start and run? If you want to try that, I'll help you.
The problem might be something very simple, but, at the moment, I don't know?
If somebody has a better answer, I'm certainly willing to learn.
Just a thought, if communications problem with modules, there should be a U code. I realize you said there were no codes.

  • Shanna Ward
    Shanna Ward Apr 21, 2016

    Thanks. Yes, battery and connections are good. I might have to take it to the dealership to see if their scanner can yield any insights. From reading other WCM is my best guess, but I'm definitely not a car expert.

    Also to add:
    -issue is apparently intermittent - won't crank/start this morning or after driving the car for a few minutes, but this afternoon tried to start several times and it was successful (until driven)
    -can reset by disconnecting the battery
    -when it doesn't start the engine light is on, but no engine codes from OB II reader or using the key sequence to display engine codes in the odometer

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2002 Lexus LX 470. Crank but no start, I've changed the battery and spark plugs and ignition coils and it still will not turn over. I need help please.

You say 'Crank, no start', but you also say 'it will not turn over'. They are the same thing, if it cranks, it is turning over, but not 'firing' or 'starting'.

After you disconnected the battery, did you reset the Security System and Engine Immobilizer? You know it has one, that flashing light on the dash?

Some ideas here

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Lexus+LX+470.+Crank+but+no+start

Anti-theft Reset

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+lexus+lx+470+reset+security+system

If that doesn't fix it, an auto electrician with a $5,000 professional grade Autel scan tool will be able to diagnose the entire car in 30 minutes. A $130 scan tool is garbage.

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1999 Chevy Blazer. It won't start and run. It will crank when first trying to start, then dies.

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Question moved to model category.

'Cranking' is purely the engine turning over. It cranks, almost starts and then it does nothing next time you turn the key? Flat battery.

Or, you turn the key, it cranks, fires and almost starts and then dies? More reasons for that scenario. Check for diagnostic trouble codes. Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the fuel pump? Did it work after that? Does it have an engine immobilizer and did you reset it after the disconnect?

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2004 Ford Mustang won't turn over.

You say 'won't turn over'. Do you means the engine is not cranking (turning over), or do you mean it cranks but doesn't 'start'? Did you disconnect the battery when you installed the fuel pump.

The flashing anti-theft light may be a clue here.
  1. Insert the key into the driver's side door lock.
  2. Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door. Leave the key in this position for 40-60 seconds. ...
  3. Do this again, but turn the key in the opposite direction.
  4. Remove the key from the door, get into your Ford, and start the engine. The system should be reset.


How to Reset the Anti-Theft System on Your Ford

Or there are videos. You should also check for DTCs, diagnostic trouble codes.


https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+ford+mustang+reset+security+system

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My Escalade had a dead battery, which was replaced 2 months ago. Got it jumped and it said stability system disabled and reduced engine power. Check engine light is also on.

fully charge battery and figure out why went dead -have code read ---check brake fluid level ,abs fuses and sensors- wires /connections
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I have a 2003 expedition.about a month ago it quit goin down the road and we put a fuel pump and a cam sensor in it and it ran .yesterday it quit again I put another new pump and can sensor but it won’t...

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How can I be sure if my PCM is bad???

I would try disconnecting battery again. Disconnect both cables and touch them together for a few seconds. This will reset all modules. Wierd that you had so many codes after just disconnecting battery. Sometimes very hard to tell if ecm is bad.
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Car wont start, seems like computer has to be reset, how can i reset the computer?

Computers store codes, if a fault in a system is detected

You clear the codes after the repair is made,no resetting

All sensors have to remain connected & working as designed

First you check that the battery is good & has at least 12.6 volts
& holds that after cranking

Then you check for codes & go from there

Do you have fuel pressure at the engine?

Do you have spark while cranking?

The air ducting & MAF Sensor have to be in place?
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The computer codes are 121155. What does this mean?

Code retrieval can be accessed by the ignition key or by a diagnostic readout box(DRB).To obtain the codes using the key method,set the park brake,and put the vehicle in Park/neutral.

Some 95 and later OBDII vehicles, you may be able to retrieve OBDII codes with this procedure, if equipped with digital dash:

* Turn the ignition key ON,OFF,ON,OFF,and finally ON again(ENGINE NOT RUNNING)
* The codes will start to flash on the POWER LOSS or CHECK ENGINE light.
* FLASH,pause,FLASH,FLASH=code 12

The codes showed are...


Fault Code 12
Description: Memory standby power recently lost
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:* Battery or power line recently disconnected - This code is normal if the electrical system has been worked on or the battery has recently been disconnected. It will be removed after 15 ignition switch on/off cycles.
* Low system voltage, bad battery or battery terminals - If the system recently had a power drop (due to a dead battery or bad alternator), this code will appear. If the battery terminals are bad and the engine was jumped, this code will appear.
* Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the battery, power module, and logic module (or SMEC). Check all fusible links and power connectors to the battery. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Logic module receives power after previously not having power


Results If Component Fails

Fault code 12 is stored. The logic module is basically telling you that it has lost power and will not remember any previously stored codes or engine sensor table data. The code will be removed after 15 ignition on/off cycles and the logic module will use default values for all look-up tables as a starting point until it "learns" the attributes of the engine.


Fault Code 11
Description: Engine not cranked since last reset or no ignition reference signal detected during cranking
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:
* Engine hasn't been cranked since last reset - Power was removed from the logic module (disconnected or dead battery, etc.) and the logic module has no memory of seeing a signal from the ignition reference sensor. Crank the engine and check for the code again. If the logic module saw a signal, the code will be cleared. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working.
* Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working (see above).
* Hall effect sensor failure- Check the ignition reference sensor and fuel injector sync sensor cables. They are the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor at the base of the distributer cap. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working (see above).

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Computer has been reset
- No signal from the ignition reference sensor has been detected

Results If Component Fails
Fault code 11 is stored and the engine will not start (even if the ignition reference sensor is working). A running engine will stall, but no code will be stored. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working.


Fault Code 55
Description: End of message
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:
* No further fault codes are stored. If this is the only code received, then there are no codes stored in memory. This code will always be given, even if nothing is wrong. If you do not get this code, then you may not be retreiving the codes properly, or the power loss light may be burnt out. The light should come on for 1 second when the ignition is initally turned on as a bulb test.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- No further codes in memory


Hope helps (remember comment and rated this)

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