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Go to a a large hardware store and buy 2 band clamps that will fit around the heat shields and clamp them tight. This is the manufacturers approved fix for heat shield rattle. The fix sure beats the $1000.00 for a new catalytic converter assembly. I have done this fix dozens of times over the years of my car repair career.
The heat shield is there to allow air to flow around the starter to prevent the heat from the exhaust burning the wires in the starter motor. Mostly it will be a engineering fix because they didn't calculate the problems with hot starters during the design process. I am afraid that you are stuck with the fitting and space problems and now you probably know why it costs so much to have it done in a shop
You will need to remove your air cleaner and duct assembly. You will then see the thermostat housing sandwiched between the back of the intake manifold and the exhaust crossover pipe. The service manual says to remove the exhaust crossover pipe, but trust me, you do not want to attempt this unless you have access to a torch to heat the nuts that hold the thing to the exhaust manifolds. If you break a stud, then you are going to be removing an exhaust manifold for broken stud removal. If you take the 8mm screws out of the heat shield on the exhaust crossover pipe, you can wiggle the heat shield out. This will provide enough room to get the lower thermostat housing bolt out. It is a pain to do it this way, but it works and will prevent broken exhaust pipe studs. Sometimes the little 8mm bolts will also break, but since they only hold the heat shield, it is of no great consequence.
Then all you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the manifold. The thermostat is directly under it. Then the only other real "trick" is getting the thermostat and O-ring to stay in the correct position while you put the thermostat bolts back in. A trick that I use is a small wooden wedge. I put the thermostat housing into place over the thermostat and O-ring, then place mt wedge between the thermostat housing and the crossover pipe to hold the thermostat housing in place while I start the bolts. Otherwise, the thermostat tends to slide out the bottom while you are trying to get the bolts started.
There's alot of shields on those. I've seen the ones bolted to the floor area, along the exhaust tunnel, to rot out. Not the ones bolted to the cat converter, for the most part. Very hard to replace without removing the exhaust first. Then the bolts usually snap or round off, requiring grinding & drilling to replace the bolts. Pain in the **** for anyone. Even me, a Master Tech.
your fuel filter is well hid !! the fuel tank is on the passengers side of your explorer on the fuel filer is located on the front top of your fuel tank ! access to the filter is obtained by removing the heat shield at the front of the fuel tank, there are two bolts retaining the shield to the right frame rail and two bolts retaining the shield to the cross member. once the shield is removed you will see the filter,Be careful removing the fuel lines, the lines have locking clips that DO NOT remove from the lines !! and can be damage if you are not careful (which will result in complete line replacement if the ends are broken. the line clips are released by disengaging the top of the clip then folding the the edge over towards the side its attached to next push both side's in (towards center on top edge) then push clip down part way while pulling line loose .Good luck Thanks for using fix ya
Look under the car to see if there is a loose heat shield around the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter area. Look right between the front seats (under the car). The front portion normally rusts away from the bolts holding it in place. This is like a ****-shell part - the top half or bottom half vibrate against the catalytic converter (sounds like knocking). Dealer can fix for about $100. You can fix for about $5.
Get a small piece of fiber glass fabric (auto store) and fold nicely and fit betwen the loose parts. Then get 3 pieces of 10 gauge copper about 18 inches long and wrap around the entire heat shield and twist tight. This will stop the vibration and last a long time in harsh environmental conditions. Do not just drive without the heat shield. You can melt your carpeting and start fires if you ever drive on grass.
this could be a lot of things but to be on safe side check the converter bolts its more likely to be a heat shield it could be a broken mount i would check those three things but start with the heat shields first
Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, Denali XL, Yukon XL, 1999 – 2005
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION Removal & Installation 4.8L, 5.3L And 6.0L Engines
Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Protective shields, as necessary
Starter solenoid shield
Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
Engine oil level sensor connection
On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
Mounting bolts from the engine block. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
Starter transmission close out cover
Positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter
Starter from the vehicle
Starter removal—4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
Install or connect the following:
Positive battery cable to the starter. Tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Starter transmission close out cover
Mounting bolts to the engine block and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)