Question about 1999 BMW Z3

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A/C pressure line melted trying to replace

A/C pressure line from firewall to dryer,this is also filler tube, has melted on maniford having hard time to find replacement # for 1999 z3 2.5

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  • BMW Master
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This is why God created salvage yards. Yuo'll get that part for 1/4 the regular cost.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L and get a P0452 EVAP Emmission Control System Pressure sensor low input. Car runs rough and wants to stall. Also, has a high pitch whine. can you help? I just repl


Evaps will cause a lot of problems if there is an air leak in the system. Many systems have an overflow pipe and a vent line from the gas tank to the back of the fuel filler tube (not may manuals show it). The filler tube lines where they connect are metal and rust out, as a result you will get an air leak, that's very hard to track down because its hidden behind the filler tube. Check those lines for any leaks, may solve your evap issue. As for the whine, are you sure the head and intake manifold gaskets were properly installed (with all coolant passages open? Whining usually indicates a bearing failure or a metal to metal contact as in lack of oil, or lack of coolant in water pump etc. Try using a stethoscope to locaet the source of the noise area for further inspection.

Aug 28, 2014 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How does someone install manual oil pressure gauge on 2006 chevy 2500 with 6.0L Vortex


where the oil pressure sender unit is on the block install a "t" fitting . Place the electrical unit in one side and a brass fitting in the other . Run the copper line from the gauge through the firewall to the "T" piece and connect up (if you are using a plastic tube the do not waste your time as the plastic fails -cracks ,slips. or melts causing engine failure) Position the gauge and connect the copper line to the gauge . run engine and check for oil leaks.

Nov 30, 2013 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 2WD

1 Answer

I have 1998 s10 pick-up. At times, it getting hard to start.........it just turns over and over.....eventaully it starts.....starting to take longer..........help please


Thsi si the most common problem with the 4.3 L s10 & jimmy's. I have posted this solution many times, Here it is again. The problem is your fuel pump. Here is how to varify, If you want to diagnose and repair yourself you will need to purchase a fuel pressure gauge at any part store they are approximately $50. Park the vehicle in a location it can sit for a couple of hours or overnight is best. In stall the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line behind the throttle body it has a pressure releif valve their. Unscrew the cap and place the fuel pressure on this port and make sure it is fairly tight. Turn the key to the run position but do not start the vehicle, do this around 2 to 3 times then shut the vehicle off, the fuel pressure should be well over 59lbs. and let it sit a couple of hours or over night. Do not do any thing else just check the pressure gauge and it will probably have dropped in the time it has sat untouched. If the pressure has dropped then the problem is your fuel pump and it will have to be replaced. The reason for this is not that your fuel pump is not working it is that their is a one way check valve mounted in the top of the fuel line on the outlet side and this check valve gets stuck and or wears out and allows the fuel to drain back into the tank. Therefore the engine looses its prime and by cranking over several minutes it then primes it self again, but eventually it will not start at all if not replaced. The check valve can not be replaced you have to replace the whole pump approx. $200.00 for the part. Very easy job to do. Try and do it when the fuel tank is almost empty. Start by disconnecting the battery, Then you need to raise the rear of the vehicle enough to remove the fuel tank. Remove the Hose clamps on the filler neck and the vent pipe at the fuel tank, support the fuel tank with a piece of wood on a jack and remove the 2 fuel tank strap bolts they are usually rusty so spray them and try and get them out gently so they don't break. Lower the tank carefully enough to get to the fuel lines that are attached to the pump and remove the retaining clip gently with a screwdriver. Remove the lines be careful these lines are made of hard plastic and break easily. Then lower the tank and remove from under the vehicle, Clean around the fuel pump retainer ring very well with air or rags or something you do not want rust or mud or crud inside the fuel tank, remove the retaining ring and lift the fuel pump out of the tank slowly to give it time to drain. Install a new pump and a new retaining ring and reverse steps to install. When you purchased the new fuel pump they usually come with a new wire connector because of problems they have with them melting. Please replace this harness even if it is not melted and remember to use shrink tube to prevent the **** connectors from corroding. Be sure to install anew fuel filter at the same time as well it is located on the drivers side just below drivers door on the inside of the frame. Your truck will be as good as new.

May 13, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Codigo p1440


EVAP System Vent Circuit Malfunction

This diagnosis detects leaks in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) purge line using of vapor pressure in the fuel tank. The EVAP canister vent control valve is closed to shut the EVAP purge line. The vacuum cut valve bypass valve will then be opened to clear the line between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. The EVAP control system pressure sensor can now monitor the pressure inside the fuel tank. If pressure increases, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will check for leaks in the line between the vacuum cut valve and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.

Possible causes
- Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve
- Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve
- EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
- EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- Loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit
- O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged
- EVAP canister is saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- Absolute pressure sensor

Possible solution
- Loose fuel filler cap
- Leaking fuel filler cap


Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

Jan 05, 2011 | 2000 Hyundai Sonata

2 Answers

Fuling problem, gas backs up in filler and cuts off, hard to fill with fuling cutting off every 3-5 seconds.


That would be your carbon canister. You will need to replace that to fix your problem. It will be somewhere between your fill opening and the gas tank. Look for a line running from filler tube that would be it. Also you may have an access hole for your fuel pump in trunk, if you do, you can probably see the top of it in the direction of your filler tube. Hope you find it. Shouldn't be to bad, but that is your problem.

Nov 04, 2010 | 1997 Plymouth Breeze

2 Answers

I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox that has a gas smell noticeable once it is driven. No leak evidence and it has been suggested I check the "gas filler tube vents". Is this a possibility?


Also check your fuel pressure regulator, the fuel rail to fuel line connection end the injectors themselves for signs of leaking. The fuel pressure regulator has a vacuum line connected to the top of it. Make sure this is secure. If the fuel pressure regulator has failed it will allow fuel to enter the vacuum line and this will cause the smell of fuel under the hood. Also make sure that the emission control pipe from the fuel vapour canister has not become disconnected from the intake plenum.

Jul 05, 2010 | 2007 Chevrolet Equinox LS New Cars

2 Answers

Need the location of the orifice tube for the a/c unit.


Look under the dryer,there is a small liquid line going into the firewall,it is in there,right at the connection,there is a swelled portion of the line,use needle nose pliers to remove the orifice tube,and to install it,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

Jul 02, 2010 | 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

2 Answers

Where is the orifice tube on a 98 Buick LeSabre located?


not exactly sure but using info below you can find it.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer2_bing.gif back to the compressor suction.

There will be about a 1" nut on the low pressure line between the firewall and the compressor. Remove nut and on the male side use a pair of kneedle nose pliers and remove orifice tube. Note orientation of tube.

Replace tube, reassemble, evacuate air from system, recharge with freon.

May 29, 2010 | 1998 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

Im trying to find my low port for the ac unit..where would it be located?


on the tube between the firewall and the a/c compressor. On some Fords the low pressure port is on the dryer (aluminium cylinder). Good news is the low pressure and high pressure port are different sizes. You cannot mess it up.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

May 29, 2010 | 1993 Ford Tempo

2 Answers

99 dodge fuel pump intrepid how to change it


Start by safely raising the rear end of the vehicle well above the ground. Note: it is best to change the fuel pump with as little fuel in the tank as possible. Once under the car locate the fuel tank and remove the large filler tube going into the side of the tank. Also, if equipped, remove the smaller tube next to the filler tube. Then, remove the two bolts furthest to the rear of the vehicle that are retaining the fuel tank hanger brakets. This should allow the tank to sag down in the rear end, allowing you access to the fuel pump wiring harness, vent tube, pressure line, and return line. Remove all of these carefully. Note beware of residule fuel pressure in the lines, also the fuel lines may require special disconnect tools to unfasten them from the pump assy. With all lines, tubes, and wiring removed from the tank, remove the brackets from the tank and manuver the tank to the ground. Move it to a well ventailated spot and then use a flat tip screw driver and a hammer to work the fuel pump assy. retainer nut couter clockwise off of the tank. Remove the pump assy. from the tank carefully and replace. Reverse procedure to reinstall. When attempting to start the vehicle the first time after service cycle the ignition key back and forth from the locked to the on position at least three times in order to prime the fuel system, as there is no fuel pressure in the lines following there removal. Also be sure to check closely for leaks once the vehicle is running. Then watch closely when adding fuel for the first time following service to ensure a proper seal at the filler tube.

Oct 24, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Neon

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