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You will have to get the bracket out of the way, just to get the housing off and back on in an easy manner that won't cause a leak.
The hose may be the one from the valve cover area, carrying the blow by and crankcase fumes back into the intake-so part of the positive crankcase ventilation. So that hose could have a lot of carbon like deposits. See if you can twist or work it back and forth carefully. Not sure how it connects or where it comes apart, If it is plastic, sometimes they break no matter how careful- age makes them very brittle.
Should be very near the center of the rear valve cover, possibly on the back side of the valve cover. It will have two high temp rubber hoses connected to it, and an electrical plug. If you can find the egr tube, those rubber hoses connect to it on the other end.
Ensure the engine and water is cold before startignthis project to eprevent scalding. This is not an easy fix as it takes a lot of patience. First step is to trace the hot water lines from the radiator and engine back to the firewall (wall below the windshield). The two silver (aluminum) pipes are the ends of the heater coil (core). I would recommend going to the auto parts store and puchase the replacement part first so you know what you are working with and have an idea of the sive of the entire element. Second is to locate the heater core black box which should be located in the area under the dash nearest the passeger side. There are several screws that must be removed to separate the black box to expose the heating element. Sometimes is it hard to get the box cover out and due to it being made of hard plastic, it is easy to break. Once you get to the heater core, the are a couple of holders that keep the core tight inside the box. remove them, disconnect the hoses (inside the engine compartment) and work the heater core out. when installation the new heater core, be very careful as to not damage the pipes that connect to the hose. Good luck
a 4.0L or 4.6L V-8 engine, the PCV valve is on the back of the engine.
Follow the black hose running to it just below the coil pack. On
Explorers with a 3.0 L V-6, the PCV valve is on top of the engine on the
right-hand side valve cover, installed in a rubber grommet with a black
rubber hose running to it.
Yes, there is a "bypass outlet" coolant hose that connects from the water pump inlet pipe (metal pipe that runs from back of water pump along engine block to lower radiator hose) to the intake manifold.
I am not sure about the "black box" - not enough detail.
if you have the 4.6L engine the hoses both connect at the back of the engine on the right side to a black pipe and a silver pipe the silver pipe stands straight up and the black one is at about 45 degrees, generally speaking the heater hoses come from the water inlet and outlet to the core (firewall) the flow or direction of water travel does not matter one is in and the other out of the core, to be for 100% sure I would have to know what exactly engine you have. Hope this helps
By the cover I am going to assume that you already have removed the turbo tubing on top of the engine. If not use a 7 or 8 mm. socket to loosen all the hose clamps. then remove the inner smaller pipe that connects to the two middle silver turbo tubes. then remove the T25 torx bit that holds this tube to the larger one under it. Lastly remove the large black hose at that connects to the tube, it may be necessary to remove the two 10mm bolts for the fresh air intake tube. Now all the connections should be off the tube. With moderate force pull the pipe toward the front of the car wiggle it back and forth until it releases.
Next you will need to remove the clamps for the larger tube that runs to the outside piping down the back of the engine. Then remove the two T25 torx screws that hold the pipe to the intake manifold. You can leave the large hose that connects to the air box in place and just prop up the tubing using bungee cords or the like to hold it up and out of the way. Using the same movements pull the large tube forward and wiggle it back and forth until it releases from the silver pipes going down the back of the engine.
I hope all of that makes sense, it's a lot easier than it sounds.
Now with all of the piping out of the way you should see a plug cover that says VOLVO. It is held in place by 7ish T30 torx screws. The cover should just lift up.
Starting at the front of the engine (the timing belt side) use a marker to number the black ignition coils from 1-6. Next make a mental picture of the routing of the wiring. It must follow the same routing or it could get pinched by the screws for the cover when reassembled.
Now, remove the 10mm bolt from each coil and pull off the coil while rotating back and forth to try to keep the coil boots from tearing. With the coils out remove the six spark plugs and discard.
I strongly recommend VOLVO spark plugs are used, I've seen allot of problems from aftermarket plugs. before installing the new plugs apply anti seize to the threads of the spark plugs. reinstall and tighten the spark plugs until their tight, they need to be tight, but don't go crazy. Reinstall the coils and bolts.
Make sure the wiring is sitting down in the valley and is not riding on the ridge or it will get pinched and you'll have to pull it all back apart. Reassemble all the pieces in reverse order, just make sure that when you reinstall the turbo piping that they fully seat on the silver pipes on the back of the engine. Usually just push and wiggle them back on.
Now there are two to three vacuum lines on the large turbo tube that go to the air box. Make sure they get plugged back in if they have come loose, most of the time they are fine, but sometimes they fall off.
Well, good luck. Just take your time and be thorough, it's not that hard it's just a little time consuming.
Do you mean a rubber hose? There is a vacuum tree near the rear of the engine where several hoses connect. See if it has come loose from that. If so you have a vacuum leak and that would explain the rough running.