Question about 1986 GMC Suburban

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After bleeding brakes...

Should brake pedal be firm without car turned on...i have power brakes

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Yes, cause there is no vaccum to the brake booster.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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What do the capped lines on the ehcu do................my brother in law(so called mech.) told me that they were buttons that you had to hold in while bleeding the unit but when my buddy and me went to do...


Bleeder screws , If you haven't replaced the unit you don't need to do anything with them . Don't need to have the vehicle running , just bleed the brakes normally . If you have replaced the Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit you need a factory scan tool to cycle the unit solenoids
Important:
• Use the two-person bleed procedure under the following conditions:
- Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
- Air is trapped in the valve body
• Do not drive the vehicle until the brake pedal feels firm.
• Do not reuse brake fluid that is used during bleeding.
• Use the vacuum, the pressure and the gravity bleeding procedures only for base brake bleeding.
Raise the vehicle in order to access the system bleed screws.
Bleed the system at the right rear wheel first.
Install a clear hose on the bleed screw.
Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean DOT 3 brake fluid.
Open the bleed screw 1/2 to one full turn.
Slowly depress the brake pedal. While the pedal is depressed to its full extent, tighten the bleed screw.
Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder pistons to return to the home position.
Repeat the previous steps for the remaining wheels. The brake fluid which is present at each bleed screw should be clean and free of air.
This procedure may use more than a pint of fluid per wheel. Check the master cylinder fluid level every four to six strokes of the brake pedal in order to avoid running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test.
Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. This will remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal before attempting to drive the vehicle.
Bleed the system as many times as necessary in order to obtain the appropriate feel of the pedal.

Apr 26, 2017 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

I have installed new rear brake shoes and new wheel cylinders on both sides. I have bled the brakes. Good pedal when engine is off...no pedal at all when engine is started. Bled brakes 4 times.


When engine is running you have a power booster in operation. Without power booster brake pedal will be heavy. With engine running, do NOT press pedal really hard. Just normal firmness. If pedal goes to floor or just too low, it needs bleeding.

Are you sure you did not run the resovior dry?
I would think would not hurt to check the correct procedure for bleeding rear brakes. Here is a YouTube video which should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T7Qrz3zJno

The other possible issue is the master cylinder piston is not sealing well. Might be a good idea to flush it with fresh fluid, but I imagine you have already if you bled it 4 times.

The way I was taught is this. Two persons method. To prevent mess, put a flexible tube over the nipple and drain it to a jar.
Fill resovior with fresh brake fluid. get ready at the bleed nipple with a small closed end wrench, and have helper sit in driver seat. Have helper pump brake pedal (all the way to the floor if it goes there without forcing it) 5 - 8 times, then HOLD PEDAL DOWN. Slowly open the bleed nipple and close it again BEFORE the pedal is released. Helper should keep pressure on as pedal moves down when fluid is released. Repeat until there is no sputtering or bubbles indicating air comming from nipple. Check and fill the tank every couple times to prevent emptying. If it run dry, you have a big problem. You must bleed the whole system at every wheel till ALL air is out.
Hope I have helped.

Jun 22, 2011 | 1999 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

98 corvette what is the proper procedure to bleeding the brakes


  1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
  2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
  3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
  4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
  5. Install a scan tool.
  6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
  7. Bleed the base brake system. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
  8. If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
    1. If a DTC is detected, check for the cause and repair as necessary.
    2. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again.

  9. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness. Remove the scan tool.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Inspect the brake fluid level.
  11. Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

  1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
  2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
  3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
  4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
  5. Install a scan tool.
  6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
  7. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
  8. Bleed the base brake system.
  9. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.

Jan 03, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

After having changed the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and bled them the pedal was good. Then the pedal was going to the floor slowly so I had to pump the brakes to get enough stopping power....


It sounds that you have done a pretty good job at this point. Remember that the brake adjustment will dictate the amount of brake pedal. Recheck to make sure the right brake linings were used. Recheck to make sure the brakes on the rear are adjusted up as far as possible. As far as the bleeding, I have had many cars that will not bleed the sytem without the engine running to give it the pressure needed to pass through the master cylinder and lines. Have a WELL ventilated area, car in neutral, wheels chocked, and bleed the brakes with the engine running. Remember to take all safety precautions to avoid injury before attempting this.

Dec 29, 2010 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?


well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

I replaced rear calipers bled brakes brake on on dash and abs light is on replaced all park brake cables no rear brakes how do i adjust rears and bleed properly, do i have to do something with computer


When bleeding brakes always bleed the wheel furthest away first and then finish at the left front. if you don't get rear brakes after several attempts...chances are your master cylinder will be bad...On the brakes...check the sensors at the rear and make sure the wires are all connected and the sensors are clean/tight. The do sometimes go bad...but not that often. Are you bleeding the brakes properly? Two person or a one person with or without a one man assist unit? The easiest is the two man bleed. Have someone in the car and to gently pump the brakes until you get a nice firm pedal then have them hold down the pedal very firmly...Loosen the bleeder quickly so it pushes/flushes out the lines of dirt and air...about 8-10 times would be common for the back before a good flush/bleed is complete. When the valve is cracked open the pedal should go to the floor and should be held there until the bleeder is completely closed again...then repeat the pedal procedure until you get a nice clean stream of brake fluid and no air in it flowing from the bleeder. NOTE about every three or four times make sure you top off/check you brake fluid in the master cylinder to keep it from running out and getting more air into the system.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1992 Buick Regal

1 Answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Dec 06, 2010 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced brake line, rotors and pads bled brakes all around and the brakes when the truck is off work but once i start the truck the brake pedal goes to the floor and have no brakes at...


Bench Bleed the M/C first, then do not let it run dry during system bleeding. Parts stores sell a kit that helps installed m/c bleeding.

Sep 29, 2010 | 2001 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

My 94 c1500 has very spongy brakes.I have replaced brake booster,master cylinder,porportion valve and both rear wheel cylinders.brake pedal will get firm when applied too bleed brakes but not much fluid...


You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes to floor


there is still air in your hydraulic lines somewhere bleed the system with a pressurised power bleeder and you will get instant results

May 01, 2009 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

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