Question about 2000 Saturn L-Series

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After recharging with red tech 12a the compressor cuts in and out and the idle goes up and down. The gage on the low side at idle reads 55 and with the AC off goes up to 110.What did I do wrong?

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You didn't state what year the car was. If it's in the 90's or 2000's, It takes the R134A freon, not the 12A, and it should have been charged on the low side, not the high side.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009


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Toyota avalon A/C compressor cycles on and off to fast

Not sure what the question is - but you have to have the compressor running to add freon.
Most times if it is low you have to jumper the low pressure switch to make the compressor run long enough to add freon.
Under normal conditions, low pressure should be 35-45psi and high side should be 200-300psi with the compressor and cooling fan running.

Jul 23, 2012 | 1995 Toyota Avalon

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On a 2001 chevy silverado 2500HD the ac blows cool in idle or slow speeds but while driving the air gets warm and then cool warm and then cool etc. i cant tell if the compressor is cutting on and off

You might be low on freon if not compressor going bad to see if your compressor is going on and off turn on a/c on max have some one hold gas peddle down around 1500 rpm or just at a small fast idleif compressor goes on and off recharge it most likely one or two cans will be enough

Aug 24, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Actually a 2000 F-450, did not see a space for that year. 7.3 diesel. A/C issue. When first started up the A/C works fine, gets cold. But if I shut off the air for any reason the compressor will not cycle...

The A/C low side should read between 30 and 35 psi. Refrigerant pressure is indicative of its temperature, and 55 psi on the low side is too high and would only provide 60 degree air at the vents.

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While the acr is running, the air conditionong compressor turns on for 2 seconds, then turns off for 3 seconds. This cycle continues for as long as I leave the A/C on. As I try to recharge the A/C...

Well, there are a couple of things to try, bypass the low pressure switch (jumper wire) and see if the system will ice up or not. Your low number 35 to 55 sounds like it is in the ballpark. The high number sounds like it is coming up short. I had good luck at Autozone with their partscomputer. If you get a really good counterperson they can look up the operating range for your low and high cutout pressure switches. They can be changed without losing all the Freon.

You want a steady low range, like 40, without fluctuation. That means you have constant flow taking heat out of your car. It means it will cool as good at idle as at 70mph. A weak low pressure switch will cut out too early, and can cause fluctuations.

Several things determine pressure in the system. There is valving in the compressor and if the compressor is worn, you have leaks between the high and low sides. The system needs a big difference between high and low. The drier is another part which can plug up, making it hard for the freon to pass through it. This problem raises pressure, but is not helping cooling because the flow is restricted. You should know these things because you may need more than a pressure switch.

I would check the operating range of the low pressure switch and try a new one. Install it and see what happens. If the low range does not get steady and keeps going up higher than 45, bleed off some Freon and see if it stabilizes.

Moderation is the Key. You do not want the compressor to cut off except when the oblong black tank is Iced up.

I hope you find my Solution very helpful.

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2004 Honda CRV air conditioning stopped blowing cold air. Box Store Auto Repair place said it was the compressor cost $1000. A Motorhead friend said it was either the low pressure switch or the high...


If by red lined you mean it went over the 250 psi range??

Assumiing that the answer is yes. This is what I think.

The Hi and Low pressure switches prevent damage to the compressor if the pressure is out of range.

Before going any further, check A/C Relay and fuse.

With the engine off, check pressure on both, Hi and Low. Both gauges must have same reading. It should be between 175-200 psi at about 80 degrees temp., if pressure is over that range, the Hi Pressure switch is preventing the compressor clutch to engage, gas needs to be removed by a qualifying A/C Technician.

If Pressre is between range, and both gauges read the same, start engine and turn compressor on, check gauges, The Low side should read about 38 psi and the Hi side should be between 250/275.psi.

Any more trouble shooting should be performed by a Qualified Tech.

Don't forget to rate this post!! Good Luck!!

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Air Condition not very cold.

The pressure on the low side it not very meaningful by itself.
What matters is the difference between the high and low.
The low normally can be up to 120 psi or so, and the high side can be twice that.
But when the AC is running, the low side should drop to less than when it is off.
But there could be lots of reasons for it not being very cold.
The pump clutch could be failing to engage. The release valve should be not opening. The air flaps could be letting heater air in instead of cold. The AC condenser fan fan or relay could be bad.

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My 98 honda civic lx (automatic) idles high around 2000rpm when the engine is cold and when is hot idle goes up and down. I recently changed distributor, distributor cap and rotor. No engine light. When...

with your a/c issue, the compressor might be faulty and not engaging and disengaging. have the a/c system level checked and recharged if necessary...if okay, then start to check the clutch in the compressor to see if it kicking it or not...maybe the low side or high side for your idle, it really didn't sound like a distributor, me it sounds like you have a faulty, Idle Air Control Motor in the throttle body allowing in too little air, and when a/c is on, its just right...have them both checked,

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