97 Oldsmobile 88 and I was driving from the house the car just went dead I thought it could be the starter or the battery I replace the starter and my battery was still good any tip thanks

SOURCE: had to keep taping on starter to get it to start

Is the security light flashing?

SOURCE: Battery going dead 2001 BMW 330i

Whenever a car has this type of a problem, it is normally because of poor connections, belt slippage *severe*, or - very possibly, something is putting an excessive drain on the battery when it is not running.

My experiences have been to first check that ALL the connections are totally clean - especially check your battery posts and make sure they are tight with very good - surface-to-surface contact. Remove BOTH connectors on the posts and clean with battery post cleaning tool *wire brush* and then use the spray that stops / limits corrosion.

Are you sure that battery IS OK? Take it in for a load test - old batteries often deteriorate over time *sealed or not* and it just might be time for a new one. Get the biggest 1 that will fit in where it is held. More amperage *rating* is always better.

Poor connections often happen during cold weather season *expansion and contraction cause this*.

BAck to connections again - VISUALLY inspect ALL your cables/wires for discoloration. Connections need to be tight - end-to-end in the charging system. I am not sure if the car has a starting relay or not - and if so - where it IS located. THAT TOO is a problematic area due to poor connections that quite often, just may need to be cleaned.

Are you sure your alternator IS good --- are it's belt nice and tight- but not too tight? Speaking of the belt ... look on the inside track of the belt - has it been replaced recently or is the rubber in poor shape *splits, showing sign of extreme heat from slipping etc*. When you have a load test - that test alone will indicate whether it IS charging even if everything is running like A/C, radio, light, wipers. Check you gauge inside the car - IF it has one - and no matter what RPM ~ it should still be charging *showing positive charging - NOT discharging*. Lastly - the alternator OUTPUT -- is it the right one for that car - correct rating???

There are even more areas worthwhile checking ... but unless you have the correct tools and diagnostic equipment - it can be tough to nail-down the right specific problem. A lot of places *like Sears* will have that - and used to not charge for the diagnostic - because they wanted to sell you THEIR battery.

One more thing .... most cars will have some minor drain due to clocks running, alarm working and so on. HOWEVER - if a light *like an interior or truck light* remains on, that will give you a larger drain.

A battery should never go dead while driving - and your light *running lights* should always be bright .. are yours??????

Hope this helps!

SOURCE: starter licking, but starter good..car wont turn over

the alternator is probably shot you would have to get it replaced

Greg Bernett

• 2993 Answers
• Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: car will not start, starter will not engage

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. If necessary for access, remove the splash shield.
4. If equipped, unfasten the flywheel inspection cover bolts and remove the cover.
5. Label and detach the electrical connectors from the starter.

1. It may allow more room it you remove the right side cooling fan.
2. Remove the starter-to-engine bolts, then carefully lower the starter from the vehicle.

SOURCE: 1994 oldsmobile 88 won't start

if key has a chip in it the lock cylinder is bad it has wires that sense that chip i've got a new one pluged it in at base of steering column with new key in it and used old key as normal