Re: I put on one side of the pedal n while I was getting...
Try to recall how you first installed the pedal originally. see if you can reverse the procedure. Im sure it will take a little more effort as opposed to installing it. It may SNAP ON & LOCK. See instructions & even try to call the store or manufacturer! Good Luck, Frank M
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Question edited for clarity, spelling and typos.
Question moved to model category.
On a car that old it is the classic system, a pedal, a brake booster servo operated by vacuum with disc brakes on the front wheels and drum brakes on the rear wheels.
A hard pedal signifies a problem with the booster or a leak in the vacuum line.
Brakes acting like they are 'not releasing' is easy to check. Take the car for a run, to free them up. Put car into park, chock front wheels, jack up the rear and try and spin the wheels by hand. The should turn freely. Lower the back, chock the back wheels, put vehicle in neutral, jack up the front wheels and try and turn the front wheels by hand. They will be a little harder as you are also moving some gearbox parts.
Drum brakes can stick if the return springs break. Disc Brakes stick if incorrectly shimmed or the slider pins are seized with rust. They allow the caliper to float on either side of the disc rotor.
Your brakes are vacuum aided so when engine is off the pedal will be hard. When the engine runs the vacuum is active and the pedal becomes light. Your brakes are working but need adjustment so that the pedal does not go to the floor.
Locate the adjusting screws behind the rear wheel drums.
With one wheel jacked adjust the shoes till wheel wont turn.
Then loosen until wheel is just free of any friction from shoes.
Repeat for other side.
When engine is running you have a power booster in operation. Without power booster brake pedal will be heavy. With engine running, do NOT press pedal really hard. Just normal firmness. If pedal goes to floor or just too low, it needs bleeding.
Are you sure you did not run the resovior dry?
I would think would not hurt to check the correct procedure for bleeding rear brakes. Here is a YouTube video which should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T7Qrz3zJno
The other possible issue is the master cylinder piston is not sealing well. Might be a good idea to flush it with fresh fluid, but I imagine you have already if you bled it 4 times.
The way I was taught is this. Two persons method. To prevent mess, put a flexible tube over the nipple and drain it to a jar.
Fill resovior with fresh brake fluid. get ready at the bleed nipple with a small closed end wrench, and have helper sit in driver seat. Have helper pump brake pedal (all the way to the floor if it goes there without forcing it) 5 - 8 times, then HOLD PEDAL DOWN. Slowly open the bleed nipple and close it again BEFORE the pedal is released. Helper should keep pressure on as pedal moves down when fluid is released. Repeat until there is no sputtering or bubbles indicating air comming from nipple. Check and fill the tank every couple times to prevent emptying. If it run dry, you have a big problem. You must bleed the whole system at every wheel till ALL air is out.
Hope I have helped.
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If it's low or empty refill it and check for a leak. If the master cylinder is full of fluid the cylinder itself could be bad.
troubleshoot the master cylinder first , you need some one to pump the pedal. open a brake line at the master cylinder with the line open put your finger on the open port . with all the stregth you have and the might you got have him pump on the pedal and your finger blocking the open port on the master cylinder, did squirt fluid out and you could not stop it, then that portion of the master cylinder is good, now do the next port if you can hold pressure then the master cylinder is non op, you need another one, Okay that is to test the master cylinder, If master cyliner is okay HERE IS THE FIX the reason you cant get a pedal is because you are a 4x4 the wheels must be on the ground,if the wheels are not on the ground there is a cut off valve on the rear differntial that will not allow fluid to pass out to the rear cyclinder put the tires on, block the wheels and someone there helping and looking after you and bleed the system remeber four wheels on the ground , by the way do you see the differntial lever that shut off fluid when wheels are not touching ground all 4X4 has this safety feature it so you dont lock the wheels when you fly in the air
Hi
Firstly put the hand brake on and loosen the wheel nuts, jack the car and remove the wheel, if you turn the wheels out so you have a better view. then remove the 2 10mm bolts from the rear of the brake caliper, there will be a hard tough wire coming over then brake caliper pop this off with a screw driver or pliers. now open the bonnet and remove the cap from the brake fluid bottle. once done leave it off and then retun to the brakes, get a flat screw driver and place it between the inner most brake pad and the brake disc then push the 2 apart, once these have been moved lift the caliper off and the brake pads should come free. the caliper has a cylider/ round part that pushes the pads against the disc ensure that the cylider is pushed right back into the caliper using some big grips large pliers. once the cylinder is right back you should be able to fit the new pads. replace all the parts in reverse order, but before putting the wheel back on push the brake pedal several times until the pedal feels hard. then replace the wheel and do the other side. once complete check the fluid level on the brake fluid and replace the cap.
This is a fairly easy job should take a novice about 40mins a side but if your quite savvy with cars then you can complete the whole job in about an hour.
Hope this helps if not please get back to me so I can be more accurate, and talk you through it.
Front brake pads are usually easy to do. Take only one side apart at a time. You will need a big C clamp along with other basic hand tools. After jacking the car up and using the proper safety stands remove the wheels. If you turn the steering wheel so you can get to the back of the brake calipers easier. Now remove the two bolts that hold the calipers to the back of the wheel spindle and carefully take the calipers off. Remove the old pads, pay attention to what pad went where. Take the C clamp of slowly squeeze the piston the caliper in. Remove and replace the rotor at this time. Put the new pads in the calipers and replace the caliper and wheel. Make sure all bolts are tighten! Before trying to drive vehicle make sure you press the brake pedal many times. I hope this helps.
I believe you need your disk brake rotors turned to be true again or have them replaced. Whe you use your brakes a lot and kit puddles of cold water then it will warp the rotors which will cause the violent shaking. You may not feel it in the brake pedal even if it is warped rotors. If you don't think you have warped rotors then you should be very careful driving it because it will probably be in the steering sector arm or the idler arm on the steering shaft.
Dale
×