I have a 91 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4 and I am trying to replace the front axles but I can't get them off. They will not slide out of the differential. I have tried tapping them but no go

If your brakes are locking in the front only, it's possible that your brake rod at the pedal is out of adjust and not allowing brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. Adjust the push rod fro the pedal where the rod comes OUT of the master cylinder a little till it's a bit loose. Just a bit free to the touch. If that doesn't take care of it, then your front flex lines are collapsing inside and not letting fluid to return to master cylinder. Those 2 things are the only thing it could possibly EVER be.

anon post. and posted at least 2 times now.
and all posts lack important facts
what are you doing? we dont know? rear Diff. something,
my guess, is you think a cover needs to be off (no it dont i bet)
the car has and FSM with all steps there, for each job, , the job
unstated by you, and my guess you are working book free. with no steps,to follow,?
(each axle on most cars have their own, methods. many there are)

ill post a rear axle photo
now a wild guess, the rear inboard axles flanges , you want off>? the DIFF? (note the clear, statement)
here are the FSM steps , all for that , do tell where you get lost

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Raise vehicle and remove wheels.
3. Drain front axle, or install catch pan under work area.
4. Remove halfshaft wheel nut.
5. Remove halfshaft flange nuts.
6. Remove halfshaft assembly.
7. Install slide hammer to axle flange and remove.
8. Remove axle seal with seal removal tool.
9. Remove snap ring.
10. Install slide hammer with bearing removal adapter and remove axle bearing.

Im guessing step 10 is an issue, working with no slide hammer are you, a key tool in any shop.?
there is a great Utube vid, with a DIY (hillbilly) with a brick tied
to a rope, and using that as a real tool?




get the FSM from suzuki, (suzukipitstopplus)
or alldata.com
its all there all steps and tools needed. (ask if a tool needs to subs)

login and read

http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

try to be specific.
no bad part was named, or job or anything.
what's yah do'n mista? anon.?
so are you replacing the whole AXLE total.
or just one part of and axle, , 4WD setup.
touch the part, and say what you are doing,first.
then ask for help.
no matter, you could have read at alldata.com , its there.
and at, omg suzuki,.

what if the axle does not want to change>? LOL.

there are only 2 ways. both are stated here.
4wd,
1: pull the engnine
2: or
http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

google 1s hit.

old post.
and axles , really?
RTM

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx

$4 bucks to read the manual.
such a deal .

here is the GV , page. its same really
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/vitara/new-vit-hubs.pdf

2001 + have the newer bearing hubs, unitized.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/no-crush.JPG


removing is easy, putting back right far harder.

see end hub #4
pull that with slide hammer, after removing screws #6
remove 7,8,9 and then using special tool pull ring 11.
with slide hammer pull, bearing hub.#1

RTM read the manual , at pitstop above
or the factory service manual , FSM
or at alldata.com,

Instructions
1.Set the vehicle transmission in "Park" and engage the emergency brake before attempting to remove the front right axle. Place wood blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling and loosen the lug nuts one complete turn on the right front wheel with a tire tool.

2. .Lift the front passenger side of the vehicle with a floor jack and slide a jack stand under the vehicle frame near the wheel. Lower the floor jack so the vehicle is sitting on the jack stand and move the floor jack out of the way.

3. Remove the lug nuts with the tire tool and set the front passenger wheel out of the way. Take the cap off the end of the axle with a standard screwdriver and remove the cotter pin from the axle with a pair of pliers.

4. Slide the crown washer off the axle and loosen the axle nut with a crescent wrench. Unfasten the top and bottom bolts that secure the brake caliper to the rotor with a socket wrench and slide the bolts out of the caliper.

5. Lift the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads from the caliper. Suspend the brake caliper from the vehicle frame with a wire hanger and take the rotor off the axle.

6. Unfasten the thru-bolt on the vertical sway bar with a socket wrench and remove the bolt from the sway bar. Take the channel bolt out from between the sway bar and lower A-arm that the thru-bolt ran through, and loosen the bolts that secure the front right axle to the center flange with a socket wrench and breaker bar. You may need to loosen the bolts with the breaker bar before removing them with the socket wrench.

7. Slide the front right axle off the center flange and let it rest on the A-arm. Lift the front passenger side up with the floor jack to get enough room between the steering knuckle and A-arm and slide the axle out of the vehicle.
Install in reverse order.

easy,just take the outer tie rod end nut off,cv axle nut and strut bolts,swing it out,some you might have allen head bolts at the tramnsmission also,very easy job.








Tim

you first need to remove the big nut that is holding the wheel on the side that you are trying to replace first you must buy the right sized socket thet will fit the nut the while the vehicle is still on the ground take the hub cap off and the cater pin out and then put the socket on the nut using a halt inch tourge ratchet loosen and remove the nut then jack your vehicle up and remove the wheel and the bolts that are holdung the hub and then with a pickle fork that is the tool used for removing tie rod ends that is connected to your stirring and then after that remove your axle and then reverse the procces to put ti back together.

Could be a retainer clip broken, or a bad motor mount. I Would suspect both. As the clip should hold the axle in even with a motor mount bad, and with out a bad mount, the shaft should not come out.

Neal, it may not be the right front axle. I thought I had the same problem with 97 4Runner but it turned out to be the right rear axle bearing. Even the technican thought the niose was coming from the right front axle when he test drove it with me. Seems those rear bearings go out if you do a lot of towing with the truck. Cost about $ 400.00 to replace make sure they replace the ABS sensor collar and replace the axle breather tube vent ( they get plugged and when they replace the bearing , they have to replace the seal in the axle also and mine leaked after because of a plugged axle vent.