Question about 2003 Cadillac CTS

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2006 CTS Manual Transmission Front Drive Shaft loose at the Yoke.. Recommended to go to Cadilac DEalership for repairs...

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    I endorse this as well, go to the dealer before u do more damage.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

chiquititas
  • 1010 Answers

SOURCE: cadilac cts

The black plastic grille around the fog lamp can be removed without tools. If you look through the slats, you'll see 5 or 6 "clips" that can be GENTLY released with your finger. Once the grille is out (which is about 4 inches high by about 14 inches long), you'll see that the fog lamp assembly can be removed with 3 screws. Simpler than you probably thought!

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

miket756
  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: leaking oil at spline shaft slip yoke at rear of transmission

there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

BCAS1298
  • 3092 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Toyata Tundra-adding transmission fluid?

Will I hate to say it but there right, it Toyota automatic transmission fluid type w.s.
ATFJWS3324 or NWS9638.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

  • 432 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 silverado extended cab, 2 wd, 2 part drive

Well on a one piece shaft they are 90Deg so I would guess 90Deg on a two piece.If they are facing the same way it would be like turning a jump rope.All weight swings to the same side at the same time,rather than being off set.I usualy have it balanced at the same time as I replace the U-Joints.Well just my two cents.Hope it helps and good luck.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

  • 312 Answers

SOURCE: WHERE IS THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR LOCATED ON A 2003

The sensor itself is located under the car right behind the oil filter. It is connected on top of the motor right by the fire wall. You will need an E8 torx socket to get it out but it's a very easy replacement.

Posted on May 08, 2010

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1 Answer

Front diff.seal leaks


Remove the front drive shaft remove the drive yoke off the pinion shaft remove the old seal install new seal install front drive shaft. PS check pinion bearing play before removing drive yolk. if it is loose then you might also need bearings

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is that joint right there a U-joint or CV? Anywho check for play at that joint, There may be a little at the slip yoke, where the tailshaft comes out of the transfer-case , but nowhere else should have any. If those joints are loose: replace U-joint While your under there you might as well check the front drive-shaft also.

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Hello, Are the tires and wheels balanced? If they are balanced then check the drive shaft. This drive shaft transfer the power from the engine/auto transmission to the rear differential/rear wheel.
Now, on each end of the drive shaft is a flexible yoke, this splined yoke has a U-joint with four bearing cups. Two of the bearing cup is attached to the splined yoke and two are attached to the drive shaft. Now, on the rear differential end is a yoke but it has 4 bolts and nuts, it also will have a U-joint attached to the 4 bolted yoke and to other bearing cups attach to drive shaft. U-Joint is called "Universal Joint" Each U-joint has about 10 degree circular travel without any type of binding to the U-joints or the drive shaft.



Two things here. First, take a pry bar and wedge into the U-Joint and move the bar forwards, backwards, up and down. If the drive shafts moves in any direction and clanks. The u-joints need to be replaced and I would replace both of the U-joints. Secondly, if the U-joints aren't loose, then there is a good possibility that the drive shaft is out of balance. In other words, it has lost it small welded plats on the drive shaft and when you are drive you Chrysler the drive shaft is vibrating.



To replace the U-Joints and/or balance the drive shaft. You'll need to remove those 4 bolts and nuts on the differential yoke. Once the bolts are removed then push the drive shaft forward, it will slide forward. Now, under the transmission yoke place a pan/bucket/container to catch the transmission fluid that will drain out once the drive shaft is pull free from the transmission.



If you don't have a press, vise, brass 5 lb hammer, bushing, punches, then I would tackle this job of replacing these U-Joints. Without the proper tools, one can damage the U-joint yokes and the drive shaft. I wouldn't do this without the tools and experience. I use a cutting torch but I have been do it for 50+ years.



If the drive shaft is out of balance, then you will need to take to Drive Line Specialty Shop to have it balanced. Also, have them replace the U-Joints. They have all equipment to do this job. I wish you luck in your endeavor. GB....stewbison

Sep 21, 2011 | 2004 Chrysler Sebring

2 Answers

I have a 1998 Ford F150 4.2 motor V-6 4x4. When I put it in drive it will not go forward. I looked underneath and my drive shaft is really loose how do I fix it. I think that my drive train is broke...


Sounds like your drive shaft may be the issue. If it is not connected to the rear differential, and you put it in drive, the truck won't move, and when you go into park, it grinds due to the fact that the transmission is still turning. It may have a bad u-joint or broken hub. It should be removed to inspect and repair it. remove the nuts at the rear part of the drive shaft yoke. It should slide out of the transmission after that. Note that u-joints need to be pressed in.

Feb 26, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

2005 silverado extended cab, 2 wd, 2 part drive shaft. Marked relationship of drive shaft to differential, transmission. Had shop replace u-joints, marks got removed. I reinstalled with what markings I...


Well on a one piece shaft they are 90Deg so I would guess 90Deg on a two piece.If they are facing the same way it would be like turning a jump rope.All weight swings to the same side at the same time,rather than being off set.I usualy have it balanced at the same time as I replace the U-Joints.Well just my two cents.Hope it helps and good luck.

Mar 14, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD

1 Answer

How to remove automatic transmission from 2001 s-10 blazer 4.3 V-6


Before you do anything, park vehicle on flat, level concrete floor in an area larger than the vehicle free of clutter, children, pets, and nosy neighbors or uninvolved personnel. Actual helpers are permitted, and in fact one is recommended, to act as a real helper/gofer, and to take action in the event of an accident or emergency. Let some one know you are going to be doing this, and carry a cell phone with you under the vehicle.First, remove negative cable from battery. Second, using a regular floor jack and good jack stands for added stability, raise the front of the vehicle high enough to get under it, and remove the drain plug from the transmission fluid pan (if applicable), or remove fluid pan from transmission, allowing used fluid to collect into a catch-pan of at least 3 gallon capacity. If you have to drop the pan because you don't have drain plug, remove the filter (it just snaps into the valve body), then replace pan with a bolt at each corner; don't worry about the gasket or torque specifications. Third, disconnect the two fluid lines from the transmission, using line wrenches to avoid damage to the line fitting nuts. Using wire or twine, tie these lines off to the frame out of the way of the transmission case. Fourth, unplug any electrical connectors and disconnect the 5-guage red starter wire from the starter motor, the shift linkage, TV cable, and speedometer cable (if so equipped) at this time. Fifth, jack vehicle on all four corners to a height of at least 24"from truck body floorpan to ground. Jack up vehicle all the way around, not just the front. This job CANNOT be done safely on wheel ramps. The entire vehicle must be off the ground, and VERY securely supported by the frame. This is dangerous if you do not make absolutely sure that the vehicle WILL NOT FALL.
Sixth, remove the U-joint clamps from the front yoke of the drive shaft and from the rear end knuckle. Gently prise the drive shaft from the two U-joint halves and remove from under the vehicle; set clear of work area. On some vehicles, you cannot remove the U-joint clamps from one end of the drive shaft, but this operation is still possible; it depends on your vehicle's configuration. Hopefully, you can remove the U-joint clamps from both ends of the drive shaft because this makes it much easier to remove the front yoke from the transmission. The front yoke just slips into the tailpiece drive shaft seal of the transmission and is held in place by the length of the drive shaft when completely assembled. Just pull STRAIGHT BACK firmly on the yoke until it comes out of the tailpiece drive shaft seal. It is customary for some fluid to leak from the transmission tailpiece when the yoke is removed. If your vehicle is a Four/All Wheel Drive model, repeat this operation AND Step Four for the transfer case and front drive shaft.
Seventh, remove the tailpiece mounting bolt from the crossmember under the rear of the transmission.
Eighth, remove the four bolts (2 on each side) which hold the transmission crossmember to the vehicle frame. DO NOT REMOVE THE CROSSMEMBER AT THIS TIME.


Feb 14, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

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To remove the drive shaft you will need to raise the vehicle off the ground and support it with jack stands. There are 4 bolts that hold the rear drive shaft u-joint in the pinion yoke on the rear differential. Once you remove the bolts and u-joint straps, then just carefully pry the u-joint from the yoke. Be careful not to let the u-joint caps slip off of the u-joint or you could lose the needle bearings that are in the u-joint caps. Once you have freed the shaft at the rear you can just slip the drive shaft rearward to remove it from the transmission. Place a drain pan under the transmission where the drive shaft is connected, as transmission fluid will run out, and you don't want it dripping on the ground. If you vehicle is four wheel drive and you want to remove the front drive shaft, you remove it just like the rear shaft but there are bolts and straps on both ends of the front one. You will probably need to keep the front shaft from turning while you loosen the bolts. You can use a long screwdriver or pry bar inserted in to the area between the u-joint and the yoke.

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Remove it. Then drive the truck to see if it vibrates. If it don't forget it. If it does, replace the driveshaft. But get it off there before it breaks something.

Mar 16, 2009 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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