'Key in ignition' chime will not stop when door is open

chime is there so you dont lock the keys in the car

cant disable it
want it it stop remove key
or you have to shut the door with window down

Is your Impala a 2000, 2001, or 2002? This seems to be a common problem in those model years...much like its predecessor the GM VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System). While the VATS had a permanent (albeit unapproved) solution, no suck workaround appears to be available for the Passlock system. Some websites offer a correction "module" that looks to be a hit-or-miss solution. I did find the following procedure on a forum, and it seems to be reliable. Here goes:
If your car has been sitting while you were at work or home or in the store, and you are coming out to leave, follow steps 1-6.

If you just had the SECURITY SYSTEM lock you out of the ignition system, you will have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset and allow the ignition control module to interact with the system. Once the 10 minutes have passed from the ACTIVE SECURITY STATUS, follow steps 1-6. Do not try to shortcut this as it wont work.

If it is raining, you can close your door, just not all the way. Close it all the way and open the door latch without pushing the door open. This will keep you dry.

+++++STEPS+++++ 1.) OPEN YOUR DRIVERS DOOR AND SIT DOWN. 2.) PLACE KEY IN IGNITION, WAIT FOR CHIME. (3 seconds is what I usually wait) 3.) TURN IGNITION 1 CLICK RIGHT (TO THE ACC POSITION) AND STOP! Do not continue to ON and START yet. WAIT ATLEAST 5 SECONDS 4.) AFTER 5 seconds has passed, TURN KEY TO ON and STOP, DO NOT CONTINUE TO START YET! 5.) WAIT AND WATCH. With your drivers door open, here is what you will see and hear = Your notification will signal DOOR ADJAR, then the BATTERY light, then the SECURITY light, during which you will hear the chime sound as if you just started the car. 6.) AFTER YOU SEE THE SECURITY light switch back to DOOR ADJAR or Battery, and after the CHIME has stopped, you can turn the key to start and voila!

It has worked every time for me and 5 of my friends. This whole process takes about 20-30 seconds, but it sure as hell beats 30 minutes, as GM refuses to compensate my time lost to their vehicle\'s design flaws.

RECAP: 1.) Open driver door, sit down 2.) Insert key in ignition, wait for chime 3.) Once chime starts wait 3 seconds 4.) Turn key to ACC position WAIT atleast 5 seconds 5.) After 5 seconds turn key to the ON postion and wait for the security light to switch back to Battery or DOOR adjar, and the chime to stop (Do not try to START if the chime is still sounding) 6.) Once chime stops and Security light has passed, You may now complete the turn to START and it will start.

Note: This is not a permanent workaround, but it will buy you some time, I can almost guarantee it will work for most if not all people, almost all the time.

It is normal operation for the odometer to light up with the driver's door being opened. It is not normal for the chime to go off. The "Key-In Switch" in your steering column is malfunctioning. The body control computer "Thinks" the key is in the ignition when it is not. It usually requires a new key tumbler assembly to fix this.

Sometimes the ignition key does not "deactivate" when removing the key...try wiggling the washer behind where the key goes...sometimes this sticks...:)

I'm assuming that the key is removed from the ignition and it's still chiming..
Take some lock lube spray and spray a bit in your ignition key slot. Then take the key and insert it in and out a few times. This may release a stuck contact in the ign. switch.
The chime will also sound if the lights are left on...worth a check too.
These are cheap fix/checks...hope they help.
k

Sounds like the contact for the key chime in the steering column is shorted to ground. The only way to get the contact is to buy the clockspring. If you can live with it leave it alone. The clockspring is labor intense. You have to remove the airbag,steering wheel, and trim around column. If you ar mechanically inclined you could just disconnect it by cutting the wire going to the chime. It is under the key tumbler. I hope this helps.

Perhaps your battery is in need of replacing, in the Handheld Ponder?

Section 13-09: Gauges, Warning Devices — Chime System 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Warning Chime Systems Three distinct sounds are used to indicate the area of concern. Seat belt warning generates 1 chime per second
key-in-ignition generates 2 chimes per second
headlight on generates 4 chimes per second.
Key-In-Ignition Warning The key-in-ignition warning will sound when the driver's front door (20125) is opened with the key in the ignition switch. It will continue to sound until the key is removed, the front door is closed, the ignition switch is turned to START or the vehicle speed is over 24 kmh (15 mph).

Safety Belt Warning When the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START from OFF or ACC, the chime will sound for six seconds or until the safety belt is buckled.

• The safety belt warning indicator lamp (10C859) will activate for 60 seconds or until the driver's safety belt is fastened. Both the chime and lamp activate at the same time.

Anytime the ignition switch is released from START and returns to RUN while the safety belt lamp or chime is activated, the safety belt warning lamp or chime will remain activated until either the timing sequence has been executed, or the safety belt is buckled.

Headlamp Switch On Warning The chime will be activated if the headlamps or parking lamps are ON, the key is not in the ignition and the driver's door is opened. The chime will sound at a rate of four per second.

The key switch usually breaks or wears out and makes contact. It is on the lock cylinder. This would cause the chime to not come on, or stay on. Sounds like the switch is bad.

1997 F-150/250 Warning Chime, Key-In-Ignition The key-in-ignition chime warns that the key is still in the ignition when the driver's door is ajar. The key-in-ignition warning chime will sound when:

• GEM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or ACC position and the keys are in the ignition.
• CTM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK, ACC or RUN position and the keys are in the ignition.

The key-in-ignition warning chime will stop sounding when:

• Driver door is closed.
• Key is removed from the ignition.
• GEM: Ignition switch is switched to the RUN position.

The key-in-ignition warning chime inputs are:

• Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
• Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on RUN/ACC input only).
• Key-in-ignition switch (grounded with key-in-ignition, open circuit with key-out).
• LH door ajar switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).

This is a pic for a 98, could not find one for 97 which may be the older style which is more prone to break.

2000 Mazda 626
Note: Make SURE the battery is new.
Instructions for programming ONE keyless remote fob.
1. Open the driver’s door & leave open.
2. Insert the key in the ignition.
3. Turn the key to the on and off position 3 times.
4. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. After door open chime stops, press the door open button 3 times.
6. After chime, press any fob key twice.
7. After second chime, press any fob key twice again.
8. After third chime, press any fob key twice again.
9. Press the door open button once.
10. The car should give another acknowledgement chime.
11. Test key fob.
This DOES work. I just programmed mine successfully today, three hours ago.