Question about 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse

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98 Spyder Eclipse over heating problem.

My Spyder runs hot when using the A/C, also spikes then drops quickly going from below 1500 rpm then above.

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  • Roger Larsen Jul 15, 2009

    Hi Benjamin,



    Just bought this car for my daughter two months ago, wanted to get her a Hyundai but she fell in love with the Spyder. All the problems started when there was a rattling sound coming from the engine. Had no clue until the alternator belt fell off and nothing was working. Driving down to get a new belt and didn’t realize until about 4 miles in that the car temp was in the red. Pulled over and had someone pick me up. Installed a new alternator belt but can’t seem to get it on right, continue to have the same problems. Don’t get the overheating problem that arose, my understanding is the water pump is controlled by the timing belt. Could the thermostat have fried when the car was running hot for those 4 miles? Not loosing any water so I’m hoping it’s not the water pump. When the A/C is on the car runs hot, below 1500 rpm it spikes then drops when you go above that.



    Thanks,



    Roger

  • Roger Larsen Jul 15, 2009





    Got the belt back on and tightened down, heat problem seems to have stopped. The only problem is the rattling sound is back, can’t figure out what it is.



    Thank You,



    Roger

  • Roger Larsen Jul 17, 2009

    Hi, after all of this the part that concerned me the most is the one that needs to be replaced, the Harmonic Balancer. Makes sense, was moving in and out causing the belt to come off the alternator pulley and making the sound. I am told 2 things, full front engine break down and should have the timing belt and water pump replaced at the same time. Also was told I could get to the balancer from behind the wheel well. Any help is appreciated.





    Thank you,



    Roger

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Rear rattle suggestions
1998 Mitsubishi ECLIPSE 98 - Rear Suspension > SUSPENSION : REAR [Part 022000 ]
TSB No: TSB9934001 Replacement: TSB9834001 NHTSA ID: 4277 , February 01, 1999
Summary: customers may complain of a squeaking, a hard rubbing noise, and / or a light tapping or knocking sound from the rear suspension when driving over bumps.
1998 Mitsubishi ECLIPSE 98 - Suspension > SUSPENSION [Part 020000 ]
TSB No: TSB9834001 Replacement: NHTSA ID: 1521 , May 01, 1998
Summary: procedures for repairing abnormal noises from the rear suspension.
This problem can be caused by dried out suspension bushings. These bushings are little rubber pieces that go around the ends of the your suspension parts like your sway bar and control arms. A quick rememdy to test would be to jack up the back of the car, and spray all the bushings liberally with silicone spray. Once the spray works its way into the rubber, the rattling/creaking noise should go away. The other possible problem could be worn shocks or coil springs Good Luck To You

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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Well, the first thing that you should check into for this is whether your a/c pulley is free spinning. If you take the belt off of it, you should be able to spin it fairly easily. If it doesn't, then you may have a clutch problem and may need to replace the pump. If it looks good, then look into when you last had the thermostat replaced, if ever. This is a cheap part to replace, though a pain sometimes. It controls the coolant for when the engine gets too warm, it lets more in and it may be getting stuck and not opening like it used to.
Other things to check would be fluid levels on everything, oil, transmission fluid, and coolant especially.
Let me know what you find.


Benjamin

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 15, 2009

    If you can't keep the belt on, possibly you have a misaligned pulley.
    The water pump on this car is spun by the drive belt that fell off
    which is why the car overheated, the pump was not pulling coolant
    through the engine. The thermostat is fine if the temperature seems to
    be fine again.












    It'll
    run
    a little warmer with the AC on, due to the increased parasitic drag
    on the engine. If it's not climbing up into the red area of the gauge
    and is staying at or a little below halfway on the temperature gauge,
    there's probably no reason to worry. If you put it on max AC, the high
    speed fans on the radiator will run by default, so that should help
    with cooling the
    engine.They should also be running once the temp reaches above halfway
    on the gauge.



    If the RPMs are spiking while the A/C is on, even sometimes when it may
    not be on and everything else is normal, then it is probably just the
    A/C pump clutch engaging and disengaging and so the engine will rev up
    a little at these times. That is normal on cars.





    Since it overheated that one time, I would possibly have the cylinder head retorqued by loosening each bolt 1/4 turn then
    tightening to the specified value from the dealer starting in the middle and working out.









    Benjamin

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 15, 2009

    There are so many things that could be rattling. I'm sorry that I can't be more help on this but any noises are hard to track down in the first place and almost impossible from someone like me online, try getting multiple people to listen for it from multiple places, probably something loose and as long as there are no warning lights, it is most likely fine.


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Roger

I'm going to ran off a list here.

Change coolant and thermostat at the same time.

check for load on alternator,ac compressor and water pump.

My best guess is worm out (still not leaking) water pump.

I come across a low mileage water pump with total worn out turbine wheel.

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Pick on my list one at a time,she will be back on the road in no time.

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