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If your car is fitted with four Weber IDF carburetors, they will have to be individually adjusted for mixture and idle speed.This requires disconnecting them from the main throttle control linkage first. You must also have a Unisyn, or similar air flow measuring device to synchronize throttle plate openings at idle. It's a relative simple procedure, however not something a novice should attempt without the carb adjustment manual present. When finished with basic adjustments, the carbs must be reconnected to the main linkage where the central idle speed adjusting screw will be found. If your car is injected, idle speed should be automatically controlled by an electronic 'Idle Speed Stabilizer'. A photo of the motor, with air cleaner removed, will be helpful in determining what system you actually
have.
do not attempt any adjustments. replace the front brakes when they need it. if you try to adjust the proportioning valve you will lock up your back brakes and risk loosing control of your vehicle. you risk ruining the ABS system in your car which will cost you far far more to replace than a cheap set of brake pads. the front brakes do most of the stoping, that is why they wear out much faster than the back brakes. it is VERY IMPORTANT that you DO NOT attempt to adjust your brake proportioning valve.
I suggest that you make a test of the proper height of your lights, before you attempt an adjustment.
This can be accomplished by driving your Mazda up to within 10 FT of a blank wall. Next take a piece of masking tape and tape it to the wall at a height of 30 inches. Put your headlamps on - on low beam - the lights should shine on the tape.
The rear brakes have a self-adjusting mechanism that does not require adjustment for proper drum to shoe clearance when brake shoe has been replaced or brake drum has been removed for some other service.
Adjustment is automatically accomplished by depressing brake pedal 3–5 times after all parts are installed. Then check brake drum for dragging and brake system for proper performance.
No, not on most applications, although there is always an exception somewhere. You'll need at ask a more specific question, e.g. are they disc or shoes? What year, make, model is the vehicle? If it is a truck, is it a duelly? What are you attempting to accomplish? Thank you/
No. There are no adjustments that accomplish that. If you are looking for more horsepower than, bolt on performance is probably what you are after. Less expensive and does the job quite well. This is stuff like timing gear sets, cams, manifolds and FI systems, exhaust headers, and computer reflashing. Look for aftermarket performance on line(you can find a ton of stuff for Fords) and pick the one that best fits your budget. Let me know if you need advice on what you find.
Unless you are a certified AC person you should not attempt to 'top up' the refrigerant. There are different kinds, and there are specific pressures. Not a job for even accomplished repair people without proper equipment and training.
Bring it in and spend the buck, that's the best and safest way to service the system.
If you think the air fins are dirty, you might try to access them and vacuum them out...
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