Question about 2003 Volkswagen Passat

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Is my turbo broken? mk4 golf. loud whirring sound and no boost pressure.

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Sure sounds like it bearings are out from what you say!

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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1 Answer

Turbo / Boost Issues


Sounds like a faulty boost pressure sensor or waste gate. I would check the waste gate first. Sounds like it is opening to soon and letting the boost out, than regaining again.

May 27, 2013 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Golf mk4, 1.6 akl engine


Fuel supply to filter, filter to pump, pump to regulator, regulator to engine. you good?

Aug 27, 2012 | 2002 Volkswagen Golf

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Oil pressure light comes on in my golf gti mk4 turbo


these can be many things, lets start by having your oil level where it should be, if it is ok then buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure indicator, take off the original oil pressure sending unit, and connect the mechanical unit start the engine and check oil pressure it should be at idle between 20 and 30 psi and once you increase rpm it should go above 50 if its not inside these values your oil pump most be defective, your rod our main bearings are worn our you have a clogged oil pick up inside the engine,hope it helps and hope is only a faulty oil pressure unit

Apr 05, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Turbo problem...dealer replaced valve...still


If you have a problem that isn't caused by something obvious, you need a Ross tech VCDS cable. This is a laptop computer diagnostic cable to talk to the car's computer. Without it you cannot do the more advanced tests.
Note about generations - some generations have similar engines: Mk3= 1996-1997 3rd generation Passat TDI or 1996-1999 3rd gen Jetta TDI Mk4= 1998-2006 New Beetle, 1999-2005 Jetta, 1999-2006 Golf, 2004-2005 Passat TDI Mk5= 2005.5-2010 Jetta TDI Mk6= 2010+ Golf TDI
Remember, an engine needs fuel, air, and compression to run. Low power is related to a lack of one of these or a sensor problem making the computer thinking there's a lack of these. Any sensor problem could also be caused by a bad ground or broken/chaffed wire so also check every section of the wiring of the suspect sensor for breaks.
Bad MAF sensor - very likely cause on the mk4 TDI. Not common on the mk3 TDI (1996-1999 Jetta/Passat). Early mk4 MAFs failed often.Error codes normally do not show up with a faulty MAF since the signal degrades instead of going out completely. Through VCDS, checking MAF actual vs. specified at idle, high rpm, and high load will quickly show a bad MAF or other problem causing a low MAF reading.
Clogged intake manifold - carbon buildup chokes the intake manifold, starving the engine of air. Only ultra low sulfur diesel is sold in North America now so there should be much less buildup in the future. Always use good quality synthetic engine oil on your TDI..
Anti shudder valve shut or almost shut (does not apply to mk3 TDI, more for mk4 TDI) - there is a spring loaded valve right before the intake manifold. Newer TDI use an electronic valve and are not as susceptible to sticking. If there is excess carbon buildup, it could shut in a partially closed position.
Clogged snowscreen/air filter - a clogged air filter will starve the engine of air. A clogged snowscreen (large debris air pre-filter) shouldn't block off all air unless the aux-intake flap is also clogged.
Clogged fuel filter - change interval is 20,000 miles but biodiesel use (cleans out old buildup) or bad fuel could clog it early, resulting in fuel starvation. Algae or bacterial growth in the fuel tank could also clog the lines.
Boost leak - a cracked hose or loose connector lets measured air out. No air or major leaks = poor engine running or stuttering. A visual inspection may not reveal all the possible or hard to see spots where leaks can form.
Hose inside ECU (mk3 TDI only, does not apply to mk4 or newer TDI) - this hose leaks and normally sets a check engine light,
Vacuum lines to/from turbo and n75 solenoid - these dry out over time and crack or can rub through. It's possible they are clogged. The n75 solenoid controls the turbo wastegate or VNT vanes with either vacuum or pressure. b4 Passat - on firewall above coolant reservoir, a3 Jetta - on pass side near air box, a4 Jetta/Golf - on firewall above brake fluid reservoir.
Problem with the n75 solenoid, VNT actuator, VNT vanes, or vacuum lines. You should have already checked the vacuum lines, the below test will inspect the entire system. Start the engine and through VCDS, click on "engine"-->"measuring blocks"-->hit "up" until you reach "group 11". Compare Specified vs. Actual MAP. This compares what's actually happening and being observed from the boost sensor (barring a faulty sensor/plug/wire) to boost the computer is requesting (what should be happening). They should be relatively close. If they are far off this normally results in limp mode but it could also be contributing to the problem. If you have a mk3 you have a conventional turbo but you can still use this test to check the n75 solenoid, the wastegate, and vac lines. However, wastegates are much less susceptible to sticking vs. VNT vanes. The videos below show how it works. The lever on the outside is welded to a lever inside the turbo housing. This is how it moves the VNT vanes. See the below videos to see how smoothly and free the lever should move. It should not stick or bind at all. Vacuum is being applied to the can, not pressure.
If the test shows poor response or no response at all, it could be sticky VNT vanes/actuator (mk4 and newer TDI only), The vanes or actuator can stick or fail to function, the lever should move freely.
If the actuator is fine, also check the n75 solenoid and vac lines. The n75 solenoid controls vacuum or boost to the vacuum line going to the turbo wastegate/VNT actuator. To test, apply voltage to the solenoid or swap with a known good unit. If you have a mk4 TDI, you can swap it with the EGR solenoid to test. Also check the plug for corrosion and the wiring harness for chaffing. If those are good, disconnect the VNT actuator rod and move the vanes by hand. If the vanes are stuck then remove the turbo and clean the inside of the exhaust housing to free the stuck vanes.
Faulty injection pump's fuel injection quantity adjuster - these are occasionally set wrong from the factory or after seal replacement. It's also possible the fuel pump's internal quantity adjuster is faulty. Applies to 1996-2003 TDI only or TDI that use a Bosch VE injection pump (not pumpe duse or common rail). Injection quantity should be 3-5 at idle and up to 36-38 at full throttle.




Feb 01, 2010 | 2004 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

CHANGING GOLF TURBO


Go to your public library. They have repair manuals for most procedures and cars. GOOD LUCK THAT IS A BEAR OF A JOB TO REPLACE THE TURBO .

Dec 30, 2009 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Turbo cut off


That's a (relatively) common problem with mk4 TDIs. Likely causes are the MAF (= Mass Air Flow) sensor in the air-intake (directly behind the air-filter) and/or the N75 Boost Pressure Controle Valve.

You should have your car's ECU read for faultcodes to troubleshoot the cause. It might also be useful to create several diagnostics logs with VAGCOM while test-driving.

This can be done by a mechanic using VAGCOM or by a VW dealer. See http://www.tdiclub.com/ (and it's forum) for more information and perhaps help.

Aug 26, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Glove box lid golf mk4 2002


take it to any autozone. they will show u how to take it off and loan you tools to do it.

Apr 22, 2009 | 2002 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Dump valve help


Ok you have a diesel so a dump valve is not needed as there is no throttle buterfly to stall the turbo when shut.If youve got it just for noise then i,m sorry you will get virtually zero due to no real pressure build up to release..........sorry.

Jan 14, 2009 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Engine problem


In hot weather you will hear the Aux fan running. It can be very loud sometimes.

Oct 20, 2008 | 2005 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Golf mk4 ignition wiring


941-50 or -500 (not sure if it is 50 of 500)
927-00
971-81
971-80.

You'll need to get the following wiring loom schemmatics (for the AUM 1.8Litre 150bhp, Turbo, 5spd Manual Engine) to figure out the correct sequence of events.

Make sure that you give your chassis number to the dealer first of all to ensure you have the correct diagrams as those supplied by me may not be chassis specific for your car.

regards

Bren

Sep 04, 2008 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

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