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The other guys have never taken the wheel bearings out of a 2007 Tacoma! Remove the tire (duh) Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line securing bracket Un-clip the air sensor hose clip Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the brake assembly on the back side Remove the rotor from the wheel "spindle"- slides right off. Unscrew the four metric bolts (maybe 17mm) holding the wheel housing to its mount (they cannot be removed from the assembly yet, see below). That's right there is no normal wheel spindle with a big nut on the end of a threaded shaft in the middle! The wheel mounting plate (with the 6 studs) is pressed into the bearing housing. Get a replacement bearing assembly and take it and your old unit to a machine shop (unless you have a good press). An easy job, just expensive- $140 for the bearing assembly.
Well, I guess it comes down to what you are calling a "spindle". The hub and bearing assembly comes out of the steering knukle. Yes, the hub and wheel studs are part of the bearing assembly. It doesn't really have a "spindle" in the old-fashioned sense. Assuming that your Canyon is a 4X4, the hub and bearing assembly comes of like this:
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel assmbly. Remove the brake caliper assembly and brake pads. Remove the Caliper Bracket from the steering knuckle. Remove the disc brake rotor. Remove the large nut from the end of the drive axle. Disconnect the electrical connector for the wheel speed sensor. Push the drive axle inward to gain access to, and remove the 3 bolts securing the bearing and hub assembly on the inside of the steering knuckle. Beat the S**T out of the bearing and hub assembly to make it come loose from the steering knuckle. (They ommitted this step in the service manual - LOL!)
Reverse steps to install. (it shouldn't be necessary to beat the new bearing though :) )
Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing.
Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
Install the wheels and lower the truck.
The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled.
BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload.
NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
Remove center hub cap. Remove large nut behind hub cap.Lift wheel assembly off ground. Remove wheel. Remove brake calipher assembly by taking out larger bolts from back of calipher. Remove brake rotor. Pull axle toward middle of vehicle, you may have to tap axle end with small hammer being careful not to damage threads on end of axle. Remove three bolts from back, bearing housing should come out to the front.
don't have topaz. maybe escort will help guide you.
Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear
1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub grease cap (1131) from the wheel hub.
If equipped with disc brakes, remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552) and rear disc brake rotor (2C026). Refer to Section 06-04 for the removal procedure.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the two brake drum screws and the brake drum (1126).
Unstake the rear axle wheel hub retainer (4B477) securing the wheel hub to the rear wheel spindle (4A013). Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
Tire and wheel assemblyCaliper and rotorWheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckleElectrical connection for the wheel speed sensorFront drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive modelsHub and bearing assembly mounting boltsHub and bearing assemblyO-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore (2500 series)
Clean and inspect the O-ring seal
Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing assembly.
Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle (2500 series).
Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assemblyHub and bearing assembly mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive modelsElectrical connection for the wheel speed sensorWheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).RotorTire and wheel assembly.
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If this is a 2005 F-150 4x4. Usually if there is movement up and down, itmight possibly be the lower ball joints and not the wheel bearing, to verify that it is indeed bearing play you can grab a hold of your tire (with tire of the ground) and try and move it side to side instead of up and down. If you can still feel the movement then it is the wheel bearing. To get to the wheelbearing you will first have to remove the tiny center dust cap in the middle of the wheel. There should be a 13mm bolt you will need to remove under that cap. Next you will have to remove the brake caliper and caliper bridge, then remove the brake rotor. On the backside of the knuckle assembly you will see 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly (your wheel bearing) on. There also may be a plastic ring around the back of the hub assembly too that has vacuum lines running to it for the vacuum hub,this will be held on by 4 or so 8mm bolts, once all these bolts and the4 bolts holding the actuall hub assembly on are removed, you should be able to remove the hub (bearing) assembly from the front of the knuckle assy. Hope this helps.