I have no power to the switch or any thing else. Battery is fully charged. No lights nothing electrical works.

well the battery was dead. , the starter is dead and fails to crank then engine. (turns over has no meaning,some say cranks other claims runs means turns over )
but I get it the starter motor is dead
then jumped cabled after 10min the dead battery is now just tad charged up but you removed the JUMP and the engine stalled I guess..
lights use only 10 amps of current , but the starter need 30 times more current and fails. 300amp to 500 amp hr battery is bad or lugs rusty or loose.
or the alternator is bad .
the cluster lamp , has charge/ battery lamp if this glows after the successful jump. the alternator is bad. (or belt to it failing/slipping)
keep in mind an alternator switches off line if any battery gross fault is detected (shorted battery cells or open)
batteries with shorted cell explode (acid rupture max)
batteries open cell (10v battery )the voltage can go so high over 19v
that electronics blows up, $1000 or more, damage
so the regulator takes the alternator off line , until corrected.
saving everyone and every thing from those horrors above.
what I do is fully test the battery first, charged and load tested.
or take to a autostore or shop and test it.

the battery they love to fail 5 to 7 years old.
that is there THING , short lived. same with belts, tires, hoses ,pads
tests are easy
get the battery load tested
or charge the battery fully using a real battery charger 15amps, best.
and test the alternator, after good battery works and starter works and engine runs
battery voltage running is 13v to 15vdc, if not the ALT is bad or its 3 fuses blown.(up to)
key off battery voltage fully rested battery say 1hour, is 12.6vdc,not 10.


also a weak battery can wake up, as they rest and the acid mix inside
the cells gets uniform it can gain capacity. this is common.
just key off ,lamps off, and battery can self improve.
if start is dead , learn to crank not just in park but try NEUTRAL.
bam it crank,s.

A few questions so I can help. Is this a Suzuki motorbike or a car? What EXACTLY does it do when you turn the key? How did you 'check for electric'? A vehicle battery should have between 12.6volts to 13.2 volts.
When you turn a starter motor over it needs a large amount of volts to power it, anything under 10 volts and it will struggle. Even a fully charged battery can struggle to turn a starter motor if it is old or faulty.
Try this. First look at the battery and check the terminals are clean and tight. Sometimes it can be as easy as that. Turn the key and look and listen carefully. Try to start the engine. Do you get absolutely nothing and no dash lights? Do you get dash lights which go off when you start the bike but you only get a quiet 'Click'? Do you get dash lights which go off and then a louder 'Clunk'? Does the engine turn over but it's very slow and lazy?
Absolutely nothing suggests a dead or totally flat battery and a lazy, slow starter is a low charge in the battery. A Quiet click could be the Starter Relay and a louder 'Clunk' could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself.
Use the comment button below with more information and i'll try to help more.

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Check all battery cells to see if specific gravity in each cell is nearly the same. Check charging voltage (about 14 volts). Make sure something is not left on.

snow plows use alot of juice check state of battery if battery good check altnernator output may need to go with higher amp alternator or add a second battery

first thing to do is clean all connections leading to plow power and grounds (all of them ) and make sure there tight clean battery cables as well

next thing i would do is have battery load tested as this is probley the main cause as alternaotr working so hard to keep up it takeing all power from motor

if battery test out ok replace alternator with higher amp alternator

if still have problem after all that add a second battery to truck

change alt. have it check at autozone free of charge

sounds like a bad wire/ground connection.Make sure battery cables are secure to battery and follow them from the battery to there posts.Check to see if they are loose or posts are corroded

if voltage reulator on alt. does not stop current after battery is charged it will over charge battery abd can drain cell from boiling electrolite out.check 4 bulged battery case(swelling) indication of overchaeging.the start problem could be your starter wires connection.remove starter wires clean contacts and torque respectively.dont forget the ground to motor.sounds like a loose or corroded contact somewhere.

bad ground cable,use a jumper cable from negative to alternator bracket, if it starts thats it.

I believe I can help you. There are a few things to check.

First, are you running the plow a lot when you're having these problems? If so, you MAY need to install a second battery designated for just using the plow with it's own alternator. Hydraulic pumps use a lot of electricity to run.

Second, there may be a short in your electrical system, try installing a battery disconnect and disconnect the battery every time you shut the truck off for extended periods of time (more than a day).

Finally, check the voltage regulator (or have a shop look at it). If it is not working properly, the batteries may not re-charge correctly. The cheapest way to solve the problem is with a battery disconnect, but it may get annoying after a while, especially if you forget to disconnect it and your battery goes dead. Finding a short in an electrical system is a long and tedious process that may not always solve the problem. And installing a second battery and alternator for the plow can get expensive.

I hope I could help you with your problem and good luck.