So I’m not sure if one thing is a result of the other but hope the information I provide will help you help me understand what’s up. My daughters 98 Eclipse Spyder started making a rattle/whistling sound. Had no clue looking at the engine but the next day she started it and many of the belts were not turning. Realized the alternator belt was the cause and decided to get it replaced. Had no power steering, alternator, and power brakes, didn’t realize it had affected the water pump until about 3 miles into my drive. Pulled over when I looked and it was redlined. The belt had not broken as I originally thought, had my tools and loosened the alternator, put the belt back on and tightened everything back up. In my day of working on cars we used a crow bar for leverage and tightened the one bolt provided. Have two with this one, the obvious one that pushes the alternator down and the other one which looks to move it fro left to right for proper alignment. For some reason it continues to move up and ride on the rim of the pulley and I am now having heating problems. Car runs hot with the A/C on, spikes at low rpm’s the drops quickly. I even have hot air blowing from the A/C on occasion. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Roger
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over heating will probably be the cause of most problems as it sends the ECM crazy with so many sensors inputting information
If you have a viscous fan hub then replace it as it is the prime cause of overheating .have a compression test done to check head gasket and cracks
If you have electric fans make sure that they are working
ckeck coolant level at the radiator cap
Make sure the radiator and over flow is full of coolant. If it is, next thing to check is the fan belt, or electric motor. Make sure the belt is there and is tight. Make sure the motor is actually going on. Most overheating problems are due to low coolant. If your radiator has a cap, you must fill it here, not just at the over flow.
No heat or low heat in a water cooled engine is worthy of an immediate check as major damage to engine could be the result of continuing to drive it. Things to check:
These two things may cause no heat and possible not ever show as a problem on the temp gauge or temp warning light until far to late:
Low coolant/antifreeze level
Other possibilities that may/may not show other signs of trouble as well:
Failing water pump (this would also explain some noise, typically like a grinding, scraping or bad bearing noise)
Slipping belt (Typically associated with the famous belt squealing or chirping noise)
Clogged radiator and/or heater core
Non-operating temperature control valve
Sounds like you lost your drive belt on the vehicle. Check to see if you still have a drive belt. Without a drive/serpentine belt you will get exactly what you have described. I'm just guessing but this is the first thing I would check. Hope it's something that simple for you and that you didn't get your engine too hot and I was able to help.
Wow. It could be a multitude of different problems. I will tell you a few things to look at first. Possible reasons of over heating include low water, thermostat stuck closed, no thermostat installed, radiator stopped up inside with gunk or outside with bugs, missing lower air dam, fan not running either because of a sensor or a bad fan motor, blown head gasket, cracked head, cracked block. I put these in order of simple to hard and mostly low price to high price. You didn't say anything about noises but the accessory belt tensioner could be broken and causing the belt to not turn the waterpump sufficiently but you would probably hear the power steering pump growl if that was the problem. Hope this helps.
First thing, check to see if idle is within factory spec. 650/700 in drive. If manual trans, 700 in nuetral. Check for correct belt tension and correct belt routing. Make sure good pressure and return at all fittings. Biggest problems with hydro-boost systems is collapsing return lines. Lack of fluid causes cavitation and unit overheat. Hope this helps. Note: had a ford with factory defect in pressure line in my shop, steel fitting into hose not set correctly, caused pressure to drop under low rpm's. Pressure checks at all fittings very important.
The way that we install the box's is to remove the spyder housing....You can lever it out with a large screw driver....Another thing to check...the clutch plate....Have you fitted it onto the input shaft (spigot shaft) and tried it for size, to make sure you've been supplied with the correct replacement? Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, but it can happen!....After you've fitted the box, refit the spyder housing, using a plank of wood and a good clout....It fits and locks in with a spring clip....
I must say that this car was very badly neglected by its previous owner(s).The problems i ha with it - fan relay failed, causing the motor to overheat, which warped the heads, resulting in my having to rebuild the engine. Alternator, horn, and front shocks have had to be replaced. Passenger door is starting to show significant rust. The windshield needs to be replaced because the laminate is spliting. Fuel filters were full of rust.