I have on the bottom of the crankcase a metal bar with two bolts that screw into the case with what looks like a vent. What is this for as i have oil leaking when engine is running from this.

Most manual transmissions don't use transmission fluid such as you would find in Automatic Transmissions... that I have ever heard of. They use a heavy grade multi-viscosity oil called, "gear oil}, especially made for manual transmissions. Typically, it's 70-90W SAE NGLI 4 or 5 grade oil pr maybe 90-110W SAE depending upon the mfr. To be sure, look at your owner's manual or use a Fleet Services catalog under one of big oil mfrs, like Shell, Ashland's Valvoline, Mobil, Quarter State, or Texaco. Usually, there is a large bolt at the sump, don't remove and drain out the fluid until you locate the fill access nut and can loosen it. Make sure your truck is on level ground. The fill access bolt is usually either a quarter inch square nut that you can turn with a 1/4" open-end wrench; however, some use an indented 1/4" or 1/2" indented square bolt/plug that you can use a suitably sized ratchet extension bar end with a ratchet to open. (Shorter length bar is often better for work in close quarters.) You will find the fill plug on one the side of the transmission casing, up high when your lying on your back underneath. Open the fill plug first, before you drain the transmission sump. Many transmission sump drain bolts have a thin metal washer on them that serve as a gasket... get a new one to replace the old one. Using the old one may cause a slow leak you won't be able to stop the very slow dripping on. The sump nut will have small pieces of metal filings on it, collected as the transmission gears wear... wipe off the magnetic underside of the bolt to clean it out with a rag. A toothpick works great at getting the fine metal particles off from around the edges. (Reminder: Take the fill port bolt off first and then drain the transmission sump by removing the sump nut.) After draining, put the "cleaned" sump bolt back on with the new washer. Ensure you have a short length of clear plastic tubing with you to push onto the open nozzle end of the gear oil container that is best cut with a carpet or box cutting razor with handle. (Remember to break the inner seal underneath the screw top nozzle.) (TIP: If there is little room to raise the bottle above the fill hole and squeeze it to empty it through the plastic tube into the fill port on the transmission, buy an extra quart of gear oil... it is easier to squeeze a full bottle and and top it up with another one as it gets too hard to squeeze when empty to make the oil come out..; go slow or you can squeeze so hard the nozzle will break and cover your hand with gear oil.) Fill the Manual Transmission case to the point where gear oil starts to trickle out of the fill hole and then put the square bolt back in with the open-end wrench or ratchet extension bar end. (TIP: Using an extension bar end is preferable to just a ratchet tip as it adds leverage to make the removal easier.)

Have you removed the oil pan to get to the bottom bolts.

Removal & Installation

2.4L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Structural collar A/C compressor bracket to oil pan bolt Oil pan
   
4. Clean the oil pan and all gasket mating surfaces.

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Oil pan gasket to the block after applying engine RTV at the oil pump parting line Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Structural collar Negative battery cable
   
2. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Structural collar A/C compressor bracket to oil pan bolt Oil pan
   
4. Clean the oil pan and all gasket mating surfaces.

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Oil pan gasket to the block after applying engine RTV at the oil pump parting line Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Structural collar Negative battery cable
   
2. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Starter motor Front motor mount bracket Bending braces Torque converter dust shield Oil pan
   
   

   Fig. Oil pan mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine
   
   

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan all mating surfaces.
2. Apply RTV gasket material to the oil pan.
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   Oil pan. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Torque converter dust shield Bending braces Front motor mount bracket Starter motor Negative battery cable
   
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

3.3L & 3.8L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket
   

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
   
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket
   

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
   
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Hi. Here's the procedure on how to change the oil pan.

Things You'll Need:
Drain pan
Crescent wrench
New oil filter
Oil filter wrench
Socket wrench
Socket set
Razor knife
Putty knife
New oil pan
Oil pan gasket
6 qt. of oil
Clean towel

Draining the Oil
1. 1 Locate the oil pan directly underneath the engine. The oil pan will be held on to the bottom of the motor by 16 to 18 bolts. The drain plug is at the bottom of the pan.
   
2. 2 Loosen the drain plug with a crescent wrench. Allow all the oil to drain in to the pan. Tighten the drain plug when the oil is through draining.
   
3. 3 Unscrew the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Place the oil filter with the waste oil.
   
4. 4 Rub new motor oil around the gasket of the new oil filter. Pour 1 qt. of oil in to the filter.
   
5. 5 Screw the filter to the filter housing with your hands. Do not wrench-tighten as this will strip the threads and make removal of the filter difficult.
   
Replacing the Oil Pan
6. 1 Locate all the bolts holding the oil pan in place. There will be 16 to 18 bolts.
   
7. 2 Unscrew all the bolts with a socket wrench. Lower the pan to the ground. If the pan is stubborn, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen the seal from the gasket.
   
8. 3 Scrape clean all the gasket material around the bottom surface of the motor. This will ensure a tight seal with the new oil pan.
   
9. 4 Place the new gasket around the new oil pan. Raise the oil pan to the motor and screw in all the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts until all are threaded to the bottom of the motor.
   
10. 5 Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Ensure that all the bolts are tight.
    
Adding the New Motor Oil
11. 1 Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Unscrew the oil filler cap on top of the crankcase. Pull the engine oil dipstick from the tube. Wipe the dipstick clean with a fresh towel.
    
12. 2 Pour in 5 qt. of oil in to the engine crank case. Insert the dipstick back in to the tube and pull it back out. Check the oil level against the markings on the dipstick. Fill at 1/2 qt. intervals until the dipstick indicates "Full."
    
13. 3 Start the truck and allow it to run for five minutes. Allow the truck to sit for an additional five minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan.
    
14. 4 Check the oil level again. Fill if necessary, but do not overfill.
    

Caravan, Grand Voyager, Town and Country, Voyager, 2000-2004

Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

2.4L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Structural collar A/C compressor bracket to oil pan bolt Oil pan
4. Clean the oil pan and all gasket mating surfaces.

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Oil pan gasket to the block after applying engine RTV at the oil pump parting line Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Structural collar Negative battery cable
2. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
   

3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Starter motor Front motor mount bracket Bending braces Torque converter dust shield Oil pan
   
   
   Fig. Oil pan mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine
   

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan all mating surfaces.
2. Apply RTV gasket material to the oil pan.
3. Install or connect the following:
   Oil pan. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Torque converter dust shield Bending braces Front motor mount bracket Starter motor Negative battery cable
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
   

3.3L & 3.8L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
3. Install or connect the following:
   New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Do you mean Heater Core???

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from the heater core next to the firewall)

Pull off the steering wheel
Undo the steering wheel bolt.
Undo the 3 screws holding the steering wheel cover in place, unclick them and put to the side.
Undo the centre console
Undo the glove box - you'll need to manipulate the stops on the inside and let it fall to the floor before - undo the two bolts at the bottom.
Remove the Instrument panel, radio, radio frame.
Undo the single screw in the bottom of the casing surrounding the vents control, gently pop out the vent plate.
Undo the 4 screws holding the vents controls in place.
Remove the frames that are holding the vent controls in place (either side of the centre colsoles (or where they were)
Remove the two side vents (push down and pull back).
Remove the two bolts (either side) that are holding the dash up.
Remove the two bolts (bottom left corner, bottom right corner) that are holding the dash up.
Gently pull the dash up and forward to (making sure you don't pull any wires off there guides and place to the side).

Put the dash to the side (resting on the front seat)

The heater core should be sitting in the middle of the dash.

Remove the four bolts (two top, two bottom) and place to the side.

Pull the heater core back and move to the side to clear the holes in the firewall.

Manipulate the heater core to the side and move out through the gap in the dash and the cross bar (it is a tight squeeze but you can get it out)

Installation is the reverse of all the instructions.

when you have finished installing the heater core make sure you bleed the engine with coolant

Top up the radiator - keep the cap off, turn on the engine, turn on the heater on the heater to full, with the engine running keep topping up the radiator as the water runs through the new core...keep doing this until no more water goes through - this last step takes a while so be patient otherwise you will start to drive the car and will have an overheating engine very quickly...

If its anything like my 97 lancer you will need to follow these steps..

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from the heater core next to the firewall)

Pull off the steering wheel
Undo the steering wheel bolt.
Undo the 3 screws holding the steering wheel cover in place, unclick them and put to the side.
Undo the centre console
Undo the glove box - you'll need to manipulate the stops on the inside and let it fall to the floor before - undo the two bolts at the bottom.
Remove the Instrument panel, radio, radio frame.
Undo the single screw in the bottom of the casing surrounding the vents control, gently pop out the vent plate.
Undo the 4 screws holding the vents controls in place.
Remove the frames that are holding the vent controls in place (either side of the centre colsoles (or where they were)
Remove the two side vents (push down and pull back).
Remove the two bolts (either side) that are holding the dash up.
Remove the two bolts (bottom left corner, bottom right corner) that are holding the dash up.
Gently pull the dash up and forward to (making sure you don't pull any wires off there guides and place to the side).

Put the dash to the side (resting on the front seat)

The heater core should be sitting in the middle of the dash.

Remove the four bolts (two top, two bottom) and place to the side.

Pull the heater core back and move to the side to clear the holes in the firewall.

Manipulate the heater core to the side and move out through the gap in the dash and the cross bar (it is a tight squeeze but you can get it out)

Installation is the reverse of all the instructions.

when you have finished installing the heater core make sure you bleed the engine with coolant

Top up the radiator - keep the cap off, turn on the engine, turn on the heater on the heater to full, with the engine running keep topping up the radiator as the water runs through the new core...keep doing this until no more water goes through - this last step takes a while so be patient otherwise you will start to drive the car and will have an overheating engine very quickly...

Check any crankcase venting used on your engine (pcv valve, breather system etc) if any are plugged it will develop positive pressure inside that will drive oil out. If venting is clear, you can have a worn or broken piston ring which will allow compression to enter oil pan which cannot be eliminated by vent system. Generally though you would have plug fouling on any cylinder with that problem. Overall ring wear from time and miles can also contribute to this condition...slight wear in all cylinders can amount to a certain amount of "blowby" which in total cannot be eliminated by venting system. In that case, if condition is not severe, sometimes changing to a high mileage type oil, a synthetic, or using an additive like marvel oil can slow down, stop or slowly reverse some of the problem.
What not to do: Do not use a single grade or heavier single grade oil...in general this will worsen the problem.

the crankcase is the bottom of your motor.It looks like a big metal pan bolted to the bottom of your engine.

This MAY seem Strange But It IS ALL necessary for Oil Pump Replacement. And Please Don't Forget to Rate Me as Most Folks Do Not. Thank You and GOOD LUCK with the Oil Pump Job Also


OIL PUMP
It is necessary to remove the oil pan, oil pickup and chain case cover to service the oil pump rotors. The oil pump pressure relief valve can be serviced by removing the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Removal and Installation for procedures.

DISASSEMBLY

1. To remove the relief valve, proceed as follows:
2. Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and insert a self-threading sheet metal screw into cap.

1. Clamp screw into a vise and while supporting chain case cover, remove cap by tapping chain case cover using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and remove spring and relief valve.
2. Remove oil pump cover screws, and lift off cover.
3. Remove pump rotors.

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.

Oil Pump Assembly

1. Assemble pump, using new parts as required. Install the inner rotor with chamfer facing the cast iron oil pump cover.
2. Tighten cover screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
3. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
4. Install chain case cover. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Installation.

REMOVAL of Timing cover
REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove timing chain cover.

REMOVAL Of Oil Pan to gain Access to OIL PUMP

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and remove engine oil dipstick.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
3. Remove bending brace to transaxle attaching bolt.
4. Remove bolts attaching dust cover to transaxle housing. Lower dust cover to gain access to oil pan bolts.
5. Remove oil pan screws and remove oil pan.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar (R) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent, at the parting line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer.
   1. Use a new pan gasket.
   2. Install pan and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
   3. Install dust shield and bending brace to transaxle housing.
   4. Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick.
   5. Connect negative cable to battery.
   6. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.