230ma drain, inside fuse 26 is the culprit, removal battery saver relay brings it down to 80ma drain. Occasionally after 45min wait it will go down to 20ma but then back up with no touching the car

Fuse 26 10A Battery Saver Relay, Interior
Lamp Relay

Passenger compartment fuse panel left hand side of instrument panel facing riverside door.

Check fuses in under hood box. 230Ma is very small, probably used bu ECU. Ma is 1/000 of an amp

There are several relays that are controlled by this fuse. battery saver relay, trans shift relay, power window relay and more

To find battery drain, disconnect battery + and put an amp meter between cable and battery to see how much drain. Very small drain (0.0x amps) is normal for computer controlled cars. More than this, remove fuses one at a time to try to locate which section of circuits has the problem. If you remove a fuse and the drain stops, you then figure out everything fed by that circuit and trace down the problem. If no fuse has any effect, you either have bad alternator diodes, or bad relay stuck in on position. I have sometimes located bad relays by having a fully charged battery, hook it up and wait 10 or 15 minutes, then carefully feel each relay to find one which is hot to the touch. BINGO!

Hello! In the Central Junction Box is fuse # 26 (10A) which powers the Battery Saver Relay...This relay, in-turn, controls the Power Windows, Electronic Shift Module, Glove compartment Light and Cargo light...If the fuse is good, suspect the relay...The Interior Lamp Relay and the Battery Saver Relay are the same...Either one could be at fault if the fuse proves to be good...See photo of relay below...Relay module Above right of gas pedal or lower left of AC/Heater/radio. It is an ugly place (Behind the center console)...

This is a documented fault if fuse #26 keeps blowing...The wiring on the rear of the relay module has a history of shorted and burnt connections on the socket of the Battery Saver Relay...Keep me posted...................Guru............Saailer



STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # RY612...Cost under $10


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

The best way to check for a power drain or a "draw" on the battery is to dis-connect the negative, or "Neg" (-) side battery cable and then connect a test light not a meter, between the "Neg" (-) side battery post and the battery terminal at the end of the battery cable.

With the key removed, all of the doors closed, and no accessories turned on, and also if there is a light under the hood dis-connect it for now. Normally the test light when connected should start off bright and then quickly dim down until the test light is almost not even showing a connection and the filament inside of bulb that is inside of the test light will barely glow and not even light up, this is normal and the only thing that should be drawing power is the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) for any control moudules or accessories that require a KAM. If this is the case then the condition of the battery would be suspected of being at fault and an internal short inside of the battery will not show up as a draw on the battery, and the battery voltage will slowly drop off all by itself with nothing even connected to the battery.

If the test light does not dim down and stays bright, or it will dim down but will also still dully light up the test light, then there is a draw on the battery and if you start removing the fuses until the test light dims down and barely makes the test light filament glow, then you will know what circuit is at fault, but if the light never dims down with all of the fuses removed, the doors are all closed, and no accessories are turned on, then dis-connect the wiring to the alternator and if the test light dims down to almost nothing, then the draw is in the alternator itself.

Common places to find a draw are the vanity lights inside of the sun visors are not turning off or are shorted, the power door lock(s) are faulty, or after-market accessories that are not properly installed, and there is even the possibility that something metal has dropped down into a cigarette lighter or a power point and is making a connection there, such as a watch battery. Also check the wiring for any wires that have been melted together or if they are missing insulation allowing the wires to touch each other or a body ground.

Either there is a device draining the battery, or the battery is failing. A common problem is the exciter diodes in the alternator, or something inside the cabin such as a radio or fan leaking off the current. To test, remove the negative battery terminal and insert a voltmeter betwwen the terminal and the battery post. Any reading shows there is a leak. Trick then is to find it. The best way is to remove the fuses from the fuse block one at a time until the meter no longer reads. Then you have the circuit and that will point to the culprit.

there are not a lot of computers that could be causing the drain, so baring any aftermarket accessories you should start searching for an indirect short to power

prop hood and leave the doors open... this is important because you do not want to wake the computers once you start your test

next, unplug the negative battery cable and insert a DVOM in series

drain should be less than 80mA after 30-90 minutes

if drain is higher, start pulling fuses until the drain is isolated

1996 is all I have. Look on back of cover for fuse chart.

Location
The fuse junction panel is located to the left of the steering column. To expose the fuse junction panel, remove the fuse panel cover (14A003) as outlined.


Fuse Loc. Number Fuse Amp Rating Fuse Color Circuit Protected 1 — — Not Used 2 5A Tan Instrument Illumination 3 10A Red Left Low Beam Headlamp 4 10A Red Right Low Beam Headlamp 5 5A Tan Brake/Shift Interlock Rear Window Defrost 6 15A Lt Blue Back-Up Lamps/Air Conditioning, Speed Control, TR Sensor 7 10A Red Starter Relay Power, TR Sensor 8 5A Tan Radio Mute, Power Antenna, GEM Module 9 10A Red Anti-Lock Brake System, Central Temperature Monitor 10 20A Yellow Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay, Ignition Coil, PATS, Radio 11 5A Tan Air Bags, Alternator Indicator Lamp 12 5A Tan Gauges, Warning Lamps, Transmission Control Switch, GEM Module, Integrated Control Panel Autolamps 13 5A Tan Air Bags, Blower Motor, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control 14 5A Tan Light-Out Module 15 10A Red Multi-Function Switch (Turn Signals) 16 — — Not Used 17 30A Lt Green Front Windshield Wipers/Washers 18 5A Tan Headlamp Switch Illumination 19 15A Lt Blue Rear Window Wiper/Washer 20 5A Tan Radio Memory, Phone, Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module, Integrated Control Panel (ICP) 21 20A Yellow Cigar Lighter 22 5A Tan Power Rearview Mirrors, Antenna, Decklid Lamps, Autolamp 23 5A Tan Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Power, Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module, Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Module 24 5A Tan Integrated Control Panel, Radio, Speedometer 25 10A Red Diagnostics (Data Link Connector) (DLC) 26 15A Lt Blue Decklid Release 27 10A Red Battery Saver System 28 15A Lt Blue Stoplamps, Speed Control 29 15A Lt Blue Multi-Function Switch (Hazard Lamps) 30 15A Lt Blue Highbeam Headlamps, Daytime Running Lamps (DRL), Instrument Cluster 31 5A Tan Tail Lamps 32 5A Tan Heated O/S Rear View Mirrors, Integrated Control Panel (ICP) 33 5A Tan Power Window and Lock Switch Illumination 34 — — Battery Saver Relay 35 — — Driver Unlock Relay 36 — — Rear Defrost Relay 37 — — Interior Lamp Relay 38 — — Driver Power Window Relay (One Touch Down) 39 — — Accessory Delay Relay