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This could be anywhere in the drive-line. Process of elimination would be the best approach. From your symptoms it sounds like the bad vibration is noticed at low speeds. There are many moving parts within this system. Were there and recent repairs performed? New tires could cause a vibration, if the tread is aggressive. Damaged wheel-bearings, defective components inside the rear differential (suspect low fluid level, damaged ring and pinion or bearings), defective U-joints, or internal transmission failure. You didn't mention if the truck was 2wd or 4wd. If the vehicle is a 4X4 then you will need to inspect the transfer case, the U-joints in the output shaft, and the front wheel bearings. I'm not sure how far you want to go with the diagnostics. Please write back if you have other questions or to give an update to how the repair is going, good luck.
Hi Chris, I'm glad to help! Vibrating / Roaring sounds can be anything from rear or front diff problems. Drive Line U-Joint problem. Wheel bearing bad. Even transmission problem. You have to pin-point where the vibration is, is it in the front, in the rear, on the right or on the left. Is it in the center of the vehicle and so on. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Chris!
GET IT TO A MECHANIC!! Something is loose or about to collapse! Remember that vibration and noise can travel away from the source so get the mechanic to start in that corner. You need to get the following checked!
-Prop shaft mountings at transfer box.
-Prop shaft mountings at differential.
-Prop shaft bearings.
-Differential condition and oil level.
-Drive shafts at differential end.
-Drive shafts at the wheel end.
-All flexing joints in the system including UV joints and CV joints.
Usually, the rear pinion bearing will make a higher pitched whining noise under a slight load. As soon as the throttle pedal is released, the noise stops. The rear axle shaft bearings will make a lower growling rumble when they are bad.
Another thing to check are the Emergency brakeshoes inside the hub of the rear rotors. The shoe material frequently separates from the rusty shoe plates and the bonded material gets pulverized. This would be similar to a "rocks crushing" sound and can cause vibration in the drivetrain.
The U-joints can cause this problem too. Check for rust and oil streaks which appear shortly before the U-joints fall apart. You should find telltale streaks on the undercarriage of your vehicle.
The front driveshaft can cause noise without being powered. There is just enough sympathetic rotation when the 4 wheel drive is Off, to cause sounds and vibration.
Testing can be aided by using a Commercial hoist and having the drivetrain engaged with the engine running. You would observe the shaking or use a probe "long broom handle" to the stationary parts like the axle tubes, differential housing, pinion bearing area, and so on. This would require a helper to sit in the hoisted vehicle and a second person to stand under a running machine. Not for the faint of heart. No baggy or loose fitting clothes, no long hair, etc.
Now there is a specialized machine which can Electronically investigate noise and vibration. There are sensors which are placed under the vehicle and it listens to vibrations. I saw one machine one time. It helps in balancing driveshafts too. A driveshaft balancing shop may be able to fix you up.
I hope my solutions are very helpful to you. If you do not have the exotic testing equipment you may have to drop the driveshafts to check your U-joints.
thats a good start. also dont forget to chk your u-joints. while its in the air have someone put it in gear and slowly accelerate. if noise or vibration have them apply the brakes and see if problem decreases. most of the time though i have found a bad u-joint to be the problem and the only way to really chk it is to drop the rear of the drive shaft and make sure that the u-joints move freely with no slop
Lots of things to check. Rear wheels, lug nuts, loose suspension piece, rear wheel bearing, since this is a rear wheel drive car i would also check the u-joints. From your description, it sounds either like a loose wheel or a wheel bearing, since the noise and vibration only occurs when you are turning. Hope this helps you, Rick
Sounds a lot like a wheel balance problem, Does vibration go away over 55? In checking driveshaft joints...If you looked at them with the vehicle in park with the wheels on the ground, the shaft is "loaded" and cannot be correctly checked. To do this properly, vehicle should be in neutral with both rear wheels off the ground. Sometimes a joint can appear to be tight but still be bad. Check for traces of powdered rust around the rubber boots right where the end caps meet the cross on the inside. Any rust there indicates lack of grease and the likelyhood that the joint is frozen. Check both balance and joints. Good luck. Don't forget to rate my answer after you find the problem.
Change the U-joints on the rear drive shaft. They don't have to move to be bad. The bearing in the joints are rusted. Be sure to mark the yolks on your drive shaft and rear diff pinion. They are ballanced are must go back in the same way you took them apart.
With that being said, did you drop the shaft an dnot put it back in the right way? that will cause a vibration. Also, have you checked to see if there is any play in your pinion shaft?