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try adjusting the shifter cable it may not be letting the linkage go all the way if you try this and it works that's good if not the transmission pan must be dropped and the spring on the pawl must be either stretched out or changed also you must check the shifter tube on the steering column if it has cracked from not stepping on the brake pedal to get it out of park the shifter cable that's attached to it is not traveling as far as it should because the tube is partially separated and the gearshift lever that you use to change gears is in the right position but the tube has separated and the part where the cable connects on the bottom of the tube is not in the photos here you will see the tube on the top side is where your gear shift lever attaches marked as ^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^and here is where the shift cable attaches to it on the bottom^^^^^ if the tube is cracked/separated the top is in the right position but the bottom is not because it is twisting & the cable is not pulling the linkage that the pawl is connected to all the way on the transmission arm that could be why your trucks not going in park here's another view
the cable is bolted to the bottom^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^so if there is separation along the tube the cable travel has not completed and transmission is not locked in park this is a very serious problem that you must check now before you do anything else because if the tube breaks all the way you will be stuck somewhere without (a) being able to get it in gear to drive to a garage (b)stuck with it in neutral a sure roll away (c) not being able to start the truck at all ///if ant of these happen you have to stay with the truck till someone can come and grab the cable at the bottom of the steering column while your foot is on the brake so where the truck is now block the wheels and go under the steering column down by the brake pedal and find the cable attached to the bottom part and see if it moves around when you twist it with pliers if it does this is your problem the shifter tube should not move at all if the steering wheel is in the locked position and also the crack/separation may also be visible you can get these from rock auto my favorite parts store online for about $30.00 or from the dealer for about $40-$50 post back with progress and again I stress THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND COULD LEAVE YOU IN A VERY BAD POSITION OR CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT SO PLEASE BLOCK THE WHEELS FRONT & BACK & CHECK THE SHIFTER TUBE NOW! having someone help you is a big +Barbara get somebody to climb under while you hold the brake down or make sure the blocks won't let the car move good luck
The vehicle speed sensor(VSS)is located on left rear of transfer case on 4x4( 4wd) 1993 jimmy.Ensure ignition is off.Raise and support vehicle .Disconnect VSS electrical connector.Place a container under VSS mounting area, to catch transmission fluid when VSS is removed.----
On 4wd the VSS is threaded,un-thread VSS from transfer case.Then remove VSS and O-ring.Installation in reverse.---------
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
To replace the outer boot, the inner joint and boot must be removed as the outer joint usually isn't easy to separate from the axle shaft. The outer shaft or joint may be damaged if disassemble is attempted. As noted above, if the inner left side boot is torn, it can be replaced while on the car, just by separating the knuckle at the ball joint as noted, then pulling the axle off of the trans-axle output splines.
The inner tripod joint can be removed by removing or pulling back the boot at the joint and then removing the inner circlip that acts as a stop to prevent the joint from separating. With the clip removed, the tripod trunnion and bearings (free rings) can be removed from the housing. Its best to keep the tripod bearings on their respective pins and the bearings in the same races in the housing, so marking everything as you disassemble is important for joint life after reassembly. With the bearing assembly out of the housing, remove the external circlip that holds the tripod axle in place on the splined shaft and slide the tripod off. Marking position is again important to prevent vibration problems.
Now the inner boot, then the outer boot can be removed and replaced. Be sure to look for dirt or water in the joints, and repack with enough CV grease to provide lubrication, but not so much that there isn't any expansion space inside the boot. This may cause excess grease to be pushed out or the boot to dislodge. Reinstall the boot retaining bands with a proper crimping tool. Work the joints in all directions before reinstalling the axle, just to make sure there is no hint of binding. The joints should feel tight, but with no hitches, which could cause noise or vibration.
HI. This can be a potentially damaging find. The actual pulley may be separating from the crank shaft, itself.
Your crank pulley is bolted directly onto the harmonic balancer. The bolt that holds the balancer to the engine block may be loose, or the balancer, itself, may be separating. This condition could also destroy your crankshaft, if not repaired, asap. Hopefully your crank shaft is in good condition, and the culprit will turn out to be just a simple loose pulley bolt. The repair cost could catapult to a higher rate if it turns out to be a crank shaft fault.
Have this potentially damaging condition inspected, asap.
This is called a cv shaft. First jack the car up and support the vehicle with jack stands. This is for safety. Then remove the wheel and the brake caliper. you need to unbolt the tie rod end and separate it from its housing. You also need to unbolt the strut from the hub assembly. You might alos have to remove the bolt from the ball joint and remove it from the hub. In the center of the hub assembly is a large nut that will also have to be remove. This is actually holding the cv shaft to the bearing inside the hub. once you have removed the cv shaft from the hub, give it a straight hard **** away fromthe trans. There is a little c clip on the other end of the cv shaft which keeps it inside the trans. If the cv shaft separates into two pieces, this is ok. Take a small pry bar or flat head screw driver and place it between the part of the cv shaft left in the trans and the case. Be gentle but lightly pry against the cv shaft and it should come out of the trans. Reverse the order of disassembly and bang your done.
I cannot see it, but I am guessing that you need to replace your axle seal. To do this,you have to pull your CV shaft out. Remove the tire, remove the caliper from the top of the rotor. Using a hammer on the back, remove the rotor. Take off the spindle (axle) nut, separate the axle (CV shaft) from the hub. Replace seal. It should pop right out. Good luck!
It shouldn't come out, and you shouldn't have been able to put it back in. Check whatever is allowing so much movement that the two parts can separate. Change whatever it is (likely bushing or mount somewhere) If you have a lift kit in there it can change geometry...you may also have a problem there.